Escape 5.0TA 5th wheel hitch question

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Wabirkland

How does the truck ride without the trailer and are you running less air ....

FWIW with the Firestone Ride Rite setup on a leaf-spring truck, they can be deflated to ~1psi (minimum to retain 'bag shape') which takes them out-of-play insofar as altering the OE ride. That's how mine ran between trailer towing, which was the majority of their life, no worries.

The only 'downside' to that system is taking care if lifting the vehicle on a 'chassis lift' which risks over-extending the bags; as long as you jack under the axle there's no issue whether or not the bags are inflated. I never had any problem with Discount Tire accommodating the request to not use their usual chassis lift, they took it in stride.

[Wabirkland]

Originally Posted by Centex

FWIW with the Firestone Ride Rite setup on a leaf-spring truck, they can be deflated to ~1psi (minimum to retain 'bag shape') which takes them out-of-play insofar as altering the OE ride. That's how mine ran between trailer towing, which was the majority of their life, no worries.

The only 'downside' to that system is taking care if lifting the vehicle on a 'chassis lift' which risks over-extending the bags; as long as you jack under the axle there's no issue whether or not the bags are inflated. I never had any problem with Discount Tire accommodating the request to not use their usual chassis lift, they took it in stride.

Much appreciated! Sounds like the Firestone Ride Rite is the ticket... just need to keep/be mindful of chassis lift.
Now I need to figure out what hitch to buy... I’m sure there are a lot of opinions on the forum

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

Here's a chart with all the 5.0TA measurements that may help. If you got the high lift axle you'll need to add 2-1/2" to all the trailer height measurements.

Excellent
From the notes on the drawing, it is correct to assume that these dimensions are for the pin box in the lower position, so the pin and plate would be 2.5" higher than the dimensions shown if the pin box were in the higher position?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Centex

2. How much does the level 5.0TA itself 'squat' between its empty / 'dry weight' condition and max loaded / 'GVWR' condition?

OR, 2a. Do you observe meaningful 'trailer squat' between your personal 'nominally empty' vs 'loaded for the road' condition (assuming your 'loaded' condition is representative of a 'typical' prudent user)?

The total travel of the suspension from zero load (tires hanging in the air) to the full load (3500 pounds per axle) is only a couple of inches. From the trailer's empty weight to its loaded weight is a small fraction of that, so the change in trailer height is very small - a fraction of an inch.

[arniesea]

If you are half way handy, you can adjust things yourself if not right from the factory. I ended up raising the pin box to lower the nose of my 5.0 2 1/2 inches to get level ride with my rig. I use the Anderson Ultimate hitch on the lowest setting. (the Anderson has 3 " of adjustment) When everything is hitched up, the frame on the trailer is level from to back. My truck is a 2017 Tundra Crewmax 5.5 foot bed. I use Loadmaster Active Suspension on the rear leaf springs for load leveling.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by arniesea

If you are half way handy, you can adjust things yourself if not right from the factory. I ended up raising the pin box to lower the nose of my 5.0 2 1/2 inches to get level ride with my rig. I use the Anderson Ultimate hitch on the lowest setting. (the Anderson has 3 " of adjustment) When everything is hitched up, the frame on the trailer is level from to back. My truck is a 2017 Tundra Crewmax 5.5 foot bed. I use Loadmaster Active Suspension on the rear leaf springs for load leveling.

Hi Arnie, I see from some of your earlier posts that you were hesitant about adding something for load leveling, I now see that you added the Roadmaster Active Suspension. I am planning on ordering them as well and I wonder if you have enough experience with them to give us a report on your view of this product.

I have a short bed F150 with a payload of 1733 lbs. I have the Andersen rail system and I mounted it 2" behind the axle on my short bed. My pin weight is right at 800 lbs. Less than 2" sag when loaded.

I have had sporadic porpoising on some sections of highway (mainly cement). We didn't have any porpoising on any of our earlier trips but we have experienced it recently. On most of our earlier trips we avoided freeways, but we have been using the freeways more recently. Also we might be loading a little heavier now, but not by much.

Thanks

[arniesea]

Originally Posted by Ronn

Hi Arnie, I see from some of your earlier posts that you were hesitant about adding something for load leveling, I now see that you added the Roadmaster Active Suspension. I am planning on ordering them as well and I wonder if you have enough experience with them to give us a report on your view of this product.

I have a short bed F150 with a payload of 1733 lbs. I have the Andersen rail system and I mounted it 2" behind the axle on my short bed. My pin weight is right at 800 lbs. Less than 2" sag when loaded.

I have had sporadic porpoising on some sections of highway (mainly cement). We didn't have any porpoising on any of our earlier trips but we have experienced it recently. On most of our earlier trips we avoided freeways, but we have been using the freeways more recently. Also we might be loading a little heavier now, but not by much.


Thanks

Hi Ron,

I have been really happy with the Roadmaster RAS system. It was an easy install, the directions were clear and easy to follow. The fact that you already know your pin weight is a plus. The kit comes with Go No-Go test shims that one uses to pretension the coil spring to the percentage of payload one expects to carry. I have towed the trailer over 10,000 miles since I installed it.

My primary purpose for the install was to mitigate sag and level the truck while towing. I was honestly skeptical of the claims about wheel hop and better ride. Yet the first thing that happened after the install, was a short trip to the next town and my wife asking, unprompted, "Did you do something to the truck? it rides better!"

Indeed, the rear suspension now glides up and over expansion joints instead of hopping and lurching. The effect was even smoother once we hooked up the trailer.

So yes I recommend the RAS suspension. Note: Just to be clear for others reading this post, this system will NOT increase your payload capacity. One still needs to pay attention to not overloading one's truck. But what it does accomplish is a smoother ride, load leveling and better control.

One other comment, the red TRD anti sway bar in my photo a few posts below was added before I ever received my trailer. So it is not a factor in the changed ride characteristics of the RAS system I describe in this post.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by arniesea

Hi Ron,

One other comment, the red TRD anti sway bar in my photo a few posts below was added before I ever received my trailer. So it is not a factor in the changed ride characteristics of the RAS system I describe in this post.

Thanks Arnie. my present thinking is to use the least adjustment, which disc, the 1mm or the 2mm did you adjust with?

Also, thanks for that last comment, that would have been my next question.

[Wabirkland]

Originally Posted by arniesea

Hi Ron,

I have been really happy with the Roadmaster RAS system. It was an easy install, the directions were clear and easy to follow. The fact that you already know your pin weight is a plus. The kit comes with Go No-Go test shims that one uses to pretension the coil spring to the percentage of payload one expects to carry. I have towed the trailer over 10,000 miles since I installed it.

My primary purpose for the install was to mitigate sag and level the truck while towing. I was honestly skeptical of the claims about wheel hop and better ride. Yet the first thing that happened after the install, was a short trip to the next town and my wife asking, unprompted, "Did you do something to the truck? it rides better!"

Indeed, the rear suspension now glides up and over expansion joints instead of hopping and lurching. The effect was even smoother once we hooked up the trailer.

So yes I recommend the RAS suspension. Note: Just to be clear for others reading this post, this system will NOT increase your payload capacity. One still needs to pay attention to not overloading one's truck. But what it does accomplish is a smoother ride, load leveling and better control.

One other comment, the red TRD anti sway bar in my photo a few posts below was added before I ever received my trailer. So it is not a factor in the changed ride characteristics of the RAS system I describe in this post.

I’m wanting to do the same i.e., mitigate sag and level my truck while towing. I’ve only looked at air bags, so thanks for the info on RAS. Curious how the truck rides without the trailer? 
I have a 2018 1500 Silverado crewcab 5 1/2 bed

[arniesea]

Originally Posted by Ronn

Thanks Arnie. my present thinking is to use the least adjustment, which disc, the 1mm or the 2mm did you adjust with?

Also, thanks for that last comment, that would have been my next question.

Each RAS set is for your specific model of truck. In my case I went with the 2mm disc because it equaled 40% of my payload capacity. Which was close to my pin weight.

So I would look at your door sticker to calculate your payload, factor in your pin weight and go from there.

Another factor in my decision is that I rarely use my truck for around town errands. It is almost alway used for "work" whether that is towing my 5.0 or hauling mulch, or fetching bedding for the chickens. Even so, empty it does ride about 1.5 inches higher than before the RAS, but the ride is still nice.

Although I have had the anti sway bar on the truck before picking up my 5.0, I think it does contribute to the overall stability of the setup. I had a rear flat while towing at 65mph outside of Phoenix a few weeks ago and never felt the trailer sway or anything. I was easily able to move over the two lanes to the shoulder in complete control. See my thread on Truck tire recommendation for more details.

[arniesea]

Originally Posted by Wabirkland

I’m wanting to do the same i.e., mitigate sag and level my truck while towing. I’ve only looked at air bags, so thanks for the info on RAS. Curious how the truck rides without the trailer? 
I have a 2018 1500 Silverado crewcab 5 1/2 bed

Empty it does ride about 1.5 inches higher than before the RAS, but the ride is still nice. That is with the 2mm disc spacing. See my fuller answer to Ron below.

[garyfaulkner00]

Get the Andersen Gooseneck adaptor. Lighter and better in my opinion. Has adjustable ball.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by garyfaulkner00

Get the Andersen Gooseneck adaptor. Lighter and better in my opinion. Has adjustable ball.

Just to be clear - because there are several Andersen products related to "gooseneck" trailers and hitches - this is presumably the Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Solution system, in what they call the "gooseneck mount" version which anchors to a ball in the pickup bed floor.

Essentially all fifth-wheel hitches are adjustable in height, too.

[garyfaulkner00]

once i was turning into a driveway and wheels on passenger side dropped of road and into ditch. The ball on the Andersen allowed the hitch to rotate enough that the trailer was resting on the side rail of the truck. Four wheel drive pulled it out with no damage to hitch. Continued travel with no problems. I think a regular 5th hitch would have broken.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by garyfaulkner00

once i was turning into a driveway and wheels on passenger side dropped of road and into ditch. The ball on the Andersen allowed the hitch to rotate enough that the trailer was resting on the side rail of the truck. Four wheel drive pulled it out with no damage to hitch. Continued travel with no problems. I think a regular 5th hitch would have broken.

The Andersen Ultimate ball hitch system does allow free rotation in all axes, with pitch and roll subject to the usual limits of a ball hitch. A pin-and-plate fifth-wheel allows more pitch than clearance to the truck can accommodate, so that's not an issue. In this case, the Andersen allowed lots of roll; while old RV fifth-wheels were fixed in roll just as commercial fifth-wheels still are, modern EV fifth-wheel hitches allow roll, too. Would a typical fifth-wheel allow enough roll travel? Perhaps not, depending on the design and the situation.