Excessive hitch wear

[Allan Bornestig]

davescape.
Hi there.Thanks for the tip regarding two inch pipe.Will do.Hate those vinyl caps too.
Allan

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

I picked up new Escape 21 last month, and guy that towed it to Sumas, WA suggested we use spray graphfite lubricant instead of grease.
...
So, I bought a can at WalMart, (WD-40 Specialist Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray, approx $8).
...
so x-nay to spray graphite for me.

I don't know how well graphite would work, but PTFE is not graphite. PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) is sometimes referred to as "Teflon", which is one brand name for the material. This is presumably not what was recommended, so if the product name listed is actually what was used, it should be "so x-nay to spray PTFE for me".

Here's the product which was tried:
WD-40 Specialist Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray

I don't see a graphite lubricant in the WD-40 Specialist lineup, but something like Jig-A-Loo Graphite Extreme Lubricant might be a good match... certainly better than a PTFE product.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I've been using PJ-1 motorcycle chain lube. it sprays on and dries to a wax lubricant that doesn't pick up dirt.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I've been using PJ-1 motorcycle chain lube. it sprays on and dries to a wax lubricant that doesn't pick up dirt.

Chain lube is an interesting idea.
PJ1: Catalog » Powersports » Chain Lubrications

John, are you using blue or black? My guess is black...
From the PJ1 FAQ:

Q: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PJ1 BLUE LABEL AND PJ1 BLACK LABEL CHAIN LUBES?
While either lube is compatible with either type of motorcycle chain, each are specially optimized for a specific type of chain.

PJ1 Blue Label is designed for “O” Ring chains. The “O” ring chains have a factory-sealed lubrication in the pins and rollers that are kept intact by the “O”ring for the life of the chain. The primary need for lubrication is outside of the “O”ring such as between the outside of the rollers and the sprockets and the side plates.

PJ1 Black Label is designed for standard non-”O”ring chains. PJ1 Black Label has a foaming action that penetrates pins and rollers as well as lubricating the rollers, sprocket and side plates. After penetrating the inside of the chain, PJ1 Black Label chain lube becomes a sticky lubricant that bounces back or has a “memory” effect that withstands the continual mechanical stress of the chain.

[John in Santa Cruz]

the can I have is blue label. only real difference is the foaming action, both are otherwise a similar lube.

[blue_bullet]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

I picked up new Escape 21 last month, and guy that towed it to Sumas, WA suggested we use spray graphfite lubricant instead of grease. Said grease will get contaminated with dirt and work as grinding compound. They did a great job installing the WDH, so seemed like the thing to do, especially just starting out with my new trailer.

So, I bought a can at WalMart, (WD-40 Specialist Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray, approx $8) and sprayed the WDH hitch trunnions and hitch ball area best I could. Appeared to work great, no squeaking/ noise whole tripe. I didn't unhitch until we got home and was surprised at the wear on the ball, not good.

I'm back to grease, has worked well for me for 30 years, maybe a little messy, but otherwise no problems. I usually use whats handy, like axle bearing grease, often I recycle used axle bearing grease that comes out of the axle hub when I grease the EZ-lub axle bearings. I keep a big rag handy and wipe clean and re-grease the hitch each time I hitch up.

I'm not really worried about the wear on the hitch ball and trailer hitch, looks ugly, but not really damaged yet. However, long term might have to replace ball and/ or trailer hitch, so x-nay to spray graphite for me.

Charles,
I have had the same experience with the same WD-40 product, and like you, will be going back to bearing grease without the fibers in it.

[blue_bullet]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

the can I have is blue label. only real difference is the foaming action, both are otherwise a similar lube.

Good idea. I have some Bel-Ray I will try. I quit using chain lube on my dirt bike O-ring chains years ago. Just a dirt magnet. Haven't broken a chain in about 25 years now but still carry a master link and 3 pieces of O-ring just in case. I also carry a tow rope in case my Honda buddies need to be pulled home.

[LRL]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

I picked up new Escape 21 last month, and guy that towed it to Sumas, WA suggested we use spray graphfite lubricant instead of grease. Said grease will get contaminated with dirt and work as grinding compound. They did a great job installing the WDH, so seemed like the thing to do, especially just starting out with my new trailer.

So, I bought a can at WalMart, (WD-40 Specialist Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray, approx $8) and sprayed the WDH hitch trunnions and hitch ball area best I could. Appeared to work great, no squeaking/ noise whole tripe. I didn't unhitch until we got home and was surprised at the wear on the ball, not good.

I'm back to grease, has worked well for me for 30 years, maybe a little messy, but otherwise no problems. I usually use whats handy, like axle bearing grease, often I recycle used axle bearing grease that comes out of the axle hub when I grease the EZ-lub axle bearings. I keep a big rag handy and wipe clean and re-grease the hitch each time I hitch up.

I'm not really worried about the wear on the hitch ball and trailer hitch, looks ugly, but not really damaged yet. However, long term might have to replace ball and/ or trailer hitch, so x-nay to spray graphite for me.

Why would graphite cause excess wear?

[gbaglo]

Actually, first we need to determine what "excessive wear" is.

I wore out the head on my Pro Series weight distribution hitch. Took ten years and was the result of not having the ball securely tightened down ( not sure when it became loose ).
That allowed the shaft of the ball to wear on the collar and WDH head.

Care to define excessive wear?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by LRL

Why would graphite cause excess wear?

It wouldn't, but

1. the spray which Charles listed does not contain graphite, and
2. the spray just failed to prevent wear, rather than causing it.

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, I agree excessive wear can be interpretive and could be the chrome wearing off or some other non new look afterwards effect, but this is normal and in no way impacts the hitch set up.

[Defenestrator]

I've been trying to figure out similar but more severe wear issues on my hitch. A thousand miles or so after picking it up, I noticed a lot of groaning and even hanging-up (that is, instead of a steady groan it made a sound like pressure building up and releasing). It actually looks almost more like galling and pitting than regular wear.

I eventually took a dremel to the ball and the inside of the hitch to remove the worst of the uneven spots/spikes then started coating it thoroughly with a lithium grease. This seems to have helped some, but it's still pretty noisy and seems to wear a lot. A day or two I switched from the all-purpose white lithium to a much thicker lithium/molybdenum grease and it seems a bit better, but it's a bit too early to be sure.

[gbaglo]

It appears that we are discussing balls, rather than hitches.
If we are discussing hitches, it will be helpful to name the brand and type.

[thiggins]

I quit using grease after ruining too many clothes. I guess I'm just too clumsy to be near it. That was another reason we got the Andersen hitch...no grease required.

[Fox hunt]

i liked the grease because it made hitching easier slipped in when a little off center.

[Brian B-P]

Whether the wear is on the ball or the coupler, one solution which skips the mess is to use a ball with a polymer cap. The only one I've seen recently is Andersen's Greaseless Hardball.

The Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Solution system uses an aluminum ball (which would normally be unacceptable due to wear) and a polymer-lined coupler... but that's not an option for a conventional trailer.

[Defenestrator]

Finally getting around to putting up a picture of the wear on mine. Since smoothing the hitch a bit with a dremel and switching to a lithium/moly grease it's at least gone from "popping" to more of a steady groan when turning. I'm hoping that'll continue to improve with time.

[John in Santa Cruz]

if that was mine, I'd get a new ball, they aren't at all expensive, although you do need a /big/ wrench to torque them on properly.

[War Eagle]

I find it curious that Ron and Elliott both experienced similar hitch ball wear, and from the photos that they've posted (Ron in Post #1; Elliott in Post #37), it appears they have the same type hitch (WDH/sway-control?). If so, is there perhaps a design flaw in that particular brand/model hitch that promotes the ball wear that both are experiencing? If it is indeed a WDH, then when under tow, the metal to metal contact pressure is on the bottom of the ball lifting up, is it not? Lifting the rear of the tow vehicle by upward pressure on the ball? If so then there shouldn't be noticeable wear on the top of the ball like with a conventional hitch, and what you see is metal corrosion (chemical action) rather than abrasion (physical action). Or, if a WDH, it could be metal on metal "pounding" (coupler on ball) when they hit a pothole or rough road and the torsion bars can't absorb all the up and down action rather than smooth twisting and turning under relatively consistent pressure. Or maybe is my brain just ready for a nap?

[Steve Clark]

Originally Posted by Defenestrator

Finally getting around to putting up a picture of the wear on mine. Since smoothing the hitch a bit with a dremel and switching to a lithium/moly grease it's at least gone from "popping" to more of a steady groan when turning. I'm hoping that'll continue to improve with time.

That looks like a Pro-Series WDH, Defenestrator. If it is, I find that in addition to keeping a good coating of lithium grease on the ball, I can eliminate the “steady groan when turning” by also greasing the upper and lower nipples of the tension bars, as well as the upper and lower sockets they fit into.