Husky Center Line TS Weight Distribution hitch

[War Eagle]

So it seems that any WDH design that utilizes pipes or bars that pivot in sockets would similarly provide some additional degree of sway control, wouldn't it, depending on the amount of friction engineered within the socket?

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

So it seems that any WDH design that utilizes pipes or bars that pivot in sockets would similarly provide some additional degree of sway control, wouldn't it, depending on the amount of friction engineered within the socket?

Hi: War Eagle... I can get lots of "Friction" just by staying home!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[jennykatz]

So far we have towed the Escape 21 about 4000 miles .We have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia(v-8) with coil springs in rear .What we did was put in Timbrin rubber SES suspension to keep the rear end from sagging .We were going to put on a WDH but decided to hold off until seeing how these Timbrins worked . So far so good not much sway when big trucks pass .Now without the Timbrins the rear end would sag about 2 inches but with it no sag very level ride . In fact I am pleasantly supprized how well this trailer goes down the road without a WDH .It also helps when towing a 5000lb boat and trailer .
What I've heard is that WDH can help a sagging rear end but wanted an easier fix time will tell if we made the right choice .

[War Eagle]

I'm curious as to how a WDH would help smooth out older concrete sections of interstate where the slabs of concrete no longer match up end-to-end and one goes down the highway "bumpity, bumpity, bumpity" for endless miles (Louisiana, you know who you are!). Would a WDH help take some of that "bumpity" out of the trailer's bounce, even a twin axle?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

So it seems that any WDH design that utilizes pipes or bars that pivot in sockets would similarly provide some additional degree of sway control, wouldn't it, depending on the amount of friction engineered within the socket?

Not quite. The traditional two-bar has the spring bar ends pulling down on the trailer frame with chains. That means that the bars are not well constrained in any direction but vertically, so when the trailer turns (sways) the front ends of the bars don't rotate in the sockets in synch - that's why only the designs with the bars tail ends in rigid brackets can use socket-end friction. The other problem is that the normal socket design can't clamp the bar; the E2 is a cheaper version of the Equal-i-zer because it has the simpler non-clamping head.

Depending on which material you read from Fastway/Progress (manufacturer of both Equal-i-zer and E2), the friction at the head is either crucial or not important.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Not quite. The traditional two-bar has the spring bar ends pulling down on the trailer frame with chains. That means that the bars are not well constrained in any direction but vertically, so when the trailer turns (sways) the front ends of the bars don't rotate in the sockets in synch - that's why only the designs with the bars tail ends in rigid brackets can use socket-end friction. The other problem is that the normal socket design can't clamp the bar; the E2 is a cheaper version of the Equal-i-zer because it has the simpler non-clamping head. Depending on which material you read from Fastway/Progress (manufacturer of both Equal-i-zer and E2), the friction at the head is either crucial or not important.

Thanks for that explanation. Makes sense....

[gbaglo]

I have the Pro Series WDH with no sway, but apparently, that's all I need. I've had to do a rapid lane change, driven crosswinds and in close proximity with semis and have always felt like the RAV4 and 17B were a single, solid unit.

[brightday]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I have the Pro Series WDH with no sway, but apparently, that's all I need. I've had to do a rapid lane change, driven crosswinds and in close proximity with semis and have always felt like the RAV4 and 17B were a single, solid unit.

I have the Husky centerline TS with spring bars but have now lost a spring bar for the second time and on the same side. Each time I pushed the round end so that the holes were no longer visible outside, pushed the round bar in and locked it (so I thought) with the D pin. The flat end was locked in with the L-shaped bracket and secured with the hair pin. The only thing I can figure is that I must have failed to push the round in of the bar far enough - twice. This last time I was 150 miles toward my destination with another 200 miles yet to go to before I'd be in my daughter's driveway again. Though my daughter and searched the area of the highway where we heard the tow bar drop off, we couldn't find it - not even after circling the area twice- so someone else must have. I traveled at least another 200 miles without the second sway bar and felt no sway at any time, just as Glenn reported above.

I no longer have any problem hitching up or unhitching - except for hooking up the sway bars, and they've always been difficult to manage, even when they managed to stay put. Because of this last experience, I'm inclined to wait to purchase yet another sway bar until I experience sway, which may occur when 18-wheelers pass in higher winds. Or is this foolish thinking?

The ultimate question is this: Can/Will the Husky WDH TS properly distribute the weight without the sway bars, or are the sway bars necessary for proper weight distribution as well as for sway?

[Greg A]

I just lost a trunnion bar on my pro series WDH and they are about $180 if you can find one. Instead I've put Bilstein shocks on the rear of my Frontier and adding Sumo Springs. Bulldog coupler is being put on the trailer tomorrow and I'm getting back to not messing with the WDH.
Hitch n go like all my other trailers have been, can't wait. Towing Tuesday with new system for a test week.

[cpaharley2008]

If you lose one bar, may was well take the other one off as you are more apt to lose it also. Then all you have is an expensive hitch. Without both bars you have no weight distribution nor sway control.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Greg A

I just lost a trunnion bar on my pro series WDH and they are about $180 if you can find one. Instead I've put Bilstein shocks on the rear of my Frontier and adding Sumo Springs. Bulldog coupler is being put on the trailer tomorrow and I'm getting back to not messing with the WDH.
Hitch n go like all my other trailers have been, can't wait. Towing Tuesday with new system for a test week.

Greg A,
What does the bull dog offer over the stock coupler?

[brightday]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

If you lose one bar, may was well take the other one off as you are more apt to lose it also. Then all you have is an expensive hitch. Without both bars you have no weight distribution nor sway control.

I placed the lost bar, but my daughter helped me place the second and then made sure that the holes at the round end were lined up before helping me to lock in both ends. Even if left in place, how could the second bar fall out? Would it break in the middle? Even so, wouldn't each end remain locked? And if the second bar could simply fall out, what's to keep that from happening again?

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Greg A,
What does the bull dog offer over the stock coupler?

That would be kinda like asking what a Ford Expedition offers over a Ford Escape. Ones a bottom end and ones a top end product.
Here’s the coupler I am having put on tomorrow:
https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra.../BD028287.html

The pictures alone show the difference, but looking at the bottom of the coupler you can see a 360 positive locking under the ball. Stock coupler only locks under the rear portion of the ball and has no adjustment so it gets sloppy. Huge safety gain.

No more stock coupler not coming off the ball without prying it up with a screwdriver or backing the rig then going forward till the Coupler will release.

Lots more, but if you’ve never experienced the difference of these couplers on a trailer, you need to. I put one on my 1st Scamp 13 and was sold on the experience.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

If you lose one bar, may was well take the other one off as you are more apt to lose it also. Then all you have is an expensive hitch. Without both bars you have no weight distribution nor sway control.

I wouldn't want to have only one bar in place, as it would apply substantial twisting force to the trailer frame, but it would still provide half the load redistribution of the pair of spring bars.

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by Greg A

I just lost a trunnion bar on my pro series WDH and they are about $180 if you can find one. Instead I've put Bilstein shocks on the rear of my Frontier and adding Sumo Springs. Bulldog coupler is being put on the trailer tomorrow and I'm getting back to not messing with the WDH.
Hitch n go like all my other trailers have been, can't wait. Towing Tuesday with new system for a test week.

If these are the same bars that ETI installs with the pro series, I have two. I decided to replace the Pro Series with an equal-I-zer I had and sold the hitch to one of the shop guys. Didn't want the bars.

Suckers are heavy. Cost a few $ to package and ship!

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

If these are the same bars that ETI installs with the pro series, I have two. I decided to replace the Pro Series with an equal-I-zer I had and sold the hitch to one of the shop guys. Didn't want the bars.

Suckers are heavy. Cost a few $ to package and ship!

Hey Charles,
I’d be interested in one if you want to split them up. I’ll pay the freight of course if it’s a match. You can email me directly at “info at scampowners.com”

Greg