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Old 02-22-2016, 12:07 AM   #1
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Question Sturdy inexpensive support for a trailer tongue weight scale?

Hi all

The title says it all

Any clever suggestions for what I can use for a sturdy inexpensive support, for a trailer tongue weight scale?

I would be using it in our driveway.... The trailer wheels would be chocked, and it is flat, so no stability issues. I just need a really sturdy support for the Sherline LM 1000 I plan on buying.

I will crank up the tongue enough to get the support and scale into place, then lower it down.

It would need to be just a bit lower than our tug's hitch height.
To account for the height of the LM 1000
(Mid size SUV ..... Guess I had better measure this height)

Weatherproof would be great ... I could keep it outside, near the tongue.

Needs to easily support 600 lbs... Just for a safety margin.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:25 AM   #2
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I use my Lynx Leveler blocks. Weatherproof and useful for under stabilizers, jack, wheels.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:26 AM   #3
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We just pile up blocks and boards. You have to have the right height so one item will not do it unless maybe you custom make it.
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Old 02-22-2016, 01:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I use my Lynx Leveler blocks. Weatherproof and useful for under stabilizers, jack, wheels.
Good idea.... I own two sets (2 x 10) of the Lynx Levelers.....

Do you just stack them straight up, in a single column?

and

maybe a "Lynx Cap" would be good, to make a flat surface?

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Old 02-22-2016, 01:26 AM   #5
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I just stack single, but a Lynx Cap would be a good idea. I think I'll get one, or a chunk of plywood.
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Old 02-22-2016, 01:28 AM   #6
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Just checked on the Lynx (Levelers) website - and they specifically say do not use a stack more than 5" high....

I'd need maybe 12" high.... guessing.... gotta measure the hitch ball height sometime

Hmmmmm...... ;-/

wondering.... about if a taller-than-5"-stack would be ok....


Lynx Levelers Instructions | Tri Lynx Corporation
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:09 AM   #7
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Depends what you are doing, I would think.
If you are properly chocked and if the trailer and the blocks are on level ground, I don't see a problem. Or, I've not seen a problem.
I wouldn't do this again though ( pic ).
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File Type: jpg Scale weigh setup.jpg (165.0 KB, 25 views)
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:16 AM   #8
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They mean 5" under wheels probably. But we use boards too and they work at the bottom on gravel better. Often a problem with gravel to get the scale right.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:25 AM   #9
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There is another method described in the Sherline Towing Guide.
You would have the hitch on the tow vehicle ball, but without the latch engaged.
You then place the Sherline scale under the jack and jack it up until the hitch comes off the ball ( I hope you chocked the trailer !! ). If you measure once with the Sherline under the hitch and then under the jack, there is a formula you can use to just measure with the jack from then on.
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Old 02-22-2016, 06:55 AM   #10
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I use a cinder block. Remember with the Sherline you must reset between readings, you have to allow it to return to zero before adding any weight again.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:09 AM   #11
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I use a roll around floor jack. Works great by sitting Sherline on the cup and jacking it up into the coupler. I put a piece of wood on the cup to make a flat for the Sherline to sit on. You can also see the effect of not having trailer level as you play with the height.

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Old 02-22-2016, 03:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiman View Post
I use a roll around floor jack.
In case you can't see it clearly in Carl's photo: floor jack images, as suggested by Sherline. That makes a lot of sense to me, but not everyone happens to have a floor jack.

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Remember with the Sherline you must reset between readings, you have to allow it to return to zero before adding any weight again.
Not really; there is nothing in a Sherline scale to reset, which is simply a hydraulic cylinder with a pressure gauge. It really only matters (for repeatability) that you approach the reading by increasing load. That means you can relieve some of the load and re-apply, without needing to completely remove the load.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:02 PM   #13
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I believe you have to allow the gauge to reset itself to -0- in order to get an accurate reading. IMBW but I believe those instructions are in the manual.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I believe you have to allow the gauge to reset itself to -0- in order to get an accurate reading. IMBW but I believe those instructions are in the manual.
The manual is here.

For anyone who wants to check, specifically.



http://www.sherline.com/lmbook2.pdf
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:25 PM   #15
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We have a button on our Sherline that pushes in to reset.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I believe you have to allow the gauge to reset itself to -0- in order to get an accurate reading. IMBW but I believe those instructions are in the manual.
Yes, that's what I've been told the manual says, but it makes no sense and conflicts with meticulous objective measurements. I assume they just put it that way because it is easy for readers to understand and ensures that the reading is taken while the load is changing in a consistent direction (increasing) which is important for repeatability. Lift the load right off if it makes you feel better, but there is no physical reason to do so.

There is nothing special about the gauge on a Sherline, other than the markings ("pounds" instead of "PSI") - that's why they say you can replace it with another one if you would like a different range. Taking the pressure to zero is not required by the gauge, or the hydraulic cylinder.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by float5 View Post
We have a button on our Sherline that pushes in to reset.
A reset button on a pressure gauge would presumably just be a valve to hold the reading until it is released (tire pressure gauges often have one of these). The manual doesn't mention this button - it doesn't contain the either of the words "button" or "reset" at all, and doesn't describe any hold feature or reset action. The diagram in the manual and photos online don't show a button, either. There is a rubber plug in the gauge housing which looks a little bit like a button, but that doesn't do anything. You may have an oddball gauge - do you have a photo?
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:51 PM   #18
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My husband must think the rubber piece is a reset button. Guess not! We won't worry about it next time then.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I believe you have to allow the gauge to reset itself to -0- in order to get an accurate reading. IMBW but I believe those instructions are in the manual.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post
The manual is here.

For anyone who wants to check, specifically.



http://www.sherline.com/lmbook2.pdf
Thanks. I've read it before, but of course don't recall every detail.

I just read and re-read the instructions in this manual (which is actually mostly about loading trailers, not operation of the gauge itself). I don't see any indication in the Instructions for Use of the Sherline Scale section (pages 10 through 12) saying anything about resetting, or completely removing load. It just says to "Raise the tongue jack until the full weight of the hitch is on the scale and read the weight in pounds directly from the gauge".
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:54 PM   #20
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We won't worry about it next time then.

Less to worry about is always a good thing!
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