19'er Water Leak Behind Toilet

[Kingfish]

On a trip and water is flowing like crazy from behind the toilet and filling up my gray tank through the shower drain. Wouldn't be too big of an issue if I could just access it. There is absolutely zero room behind the toilet to see what is going on back there. The only line I can see is is not the culprit. Do I have to remove the toilet to access the problem connection?

[ColoradoSwany]

We have a 2017 Escape 19. We have the optional toilet shutoff valve, which is under the driver side dinette. If you have that, you could at least stop the flow until you could fix the problem. And others on here would be far more qualified than me to diagnose the actual issue.

[Doug2000]

Subscribe to thread, wondering the problem

[rubicon327]

Most likely a cracked flush valve. You’ll need to remove the nut on each side of the toilet and remove it for access. Not very hard and the toilet is very light plastic. Keep the water line connected if possible and try to spot the leak. Can be a hairline crack that is almost impossible to see. Check your toilet model but it should be the Thetford AquaMagic V. The stock Thetford replacement part is 31705 but I used this “upgraded” valve when ours failed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09HY...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are installation directions from Thetford to give you an idea of the job:
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...ter-Module.pdf

[HABBERDABBER]

Like others have stated, the leak is likely the toilet valve. I had one freeze and crack in my old Casita. Do install a H20 shut-off valve to the toilet. They can save a trip and are pretty easy to install. A Shark-bite valve snaps on the PEX line quickly. Cutting the PEX is tough....a fine tooth saw will work well.

[Kingfish]

Thanks. Fortunately I have a pex cutting tool and shark bite valve with me. Anticipated this could happen one day.

[MVA]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

Like others have stated, the leak is likely the toilet valve. I had one freeze and crack in my old Casita. Do install a H20 shut-off valve to the toilet. They can save a trip and are pretty easy to install. A Shark-bite valve snaps on the PEX line quickly. Cutting the PEX is tough....a fine tooth saw will work well.

I do not have a shutoff valve under the DS dinette bench on my E19. My concern is if I install a valve, it will be right next to the EMS; water and electricity...

Two questions:
(1) Did you install a valve under your dinette or under the bed (thereby shutting cold water off to the bathroom?
(2) I am having difficulty in finding a 1/2"x1/2" PEX shark-bite shut-off valve. HD, Lowes, etc. Where did you find one?

Thanks

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by MVA

I do not have a shutoff valve under the DS dinette bench on my E19. My concern is if I install a valve, it will be right next to the EMS; water and electricity...

Two questions:
(1) Did you install a valve under your dinette or under the bed (thereby shutting cold water off to the bathroom?
(2) I am having difficulty in finding a 1/2"x1/2" PEX shark-bite shut-off valve. HD, Lowes, etc. Where did you find one?

Thanks

I hear you about having piping so close to electrical items but I rather have a valve than not have one. Ours was installed by the first owner. I had a leak in the dinette compartment on the flex line to the toilet and also have had a cracked toilet flush valve. In both cases I was glad to have the shutoff valve. Hoping my stainless steel braid reinforced supply line and upgraded toilet valve with supposedly a more freeze resistant polymer keeps us trouble free for awhile.

If you have hard pex that extends right through to the bath uninterrupted I can see an argument to locate the valve further upstream. If you do put a valve under the bed you are exactly right it will shut off the sink/shower too along with the toilet supply. It may also shut off cold water to an outside shower if your trailer is equipped with one on the driver's side. If we didn't already have a valve in the dinette seat area up front this would be a compelling option if you can get access to install.

If you have room for the handle swing you should be able to use something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-B...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Kingfish]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Most likely a cracked flush valve. You’ll need to remove the nut on each side of the toilet and remove it for access. Not very hard and the toilet is very light plastic. Keep the water line connected if possible and try to spot the leak. Can be a hairline crack that is almost impossible to see. Check your toilet model but it should be the Thetford AquaMagic V. The stock Thetford replacement part is 31705 but I used this “upgraded” valve when ours failed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09HY...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are installation directions from Thetford to give you an idea of the job:
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...ter-Module.pdf

Thanks. Just the info I need. I'm gonna order one whether I need it now or not. How do I determine the model number of the toilet?

[MVA]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I hear you about having piping so close to electrical items but I rather have a valve than not have one. Ours was installed by the first owner. I had a leak in the dinette compartment on the flex line to the toilet and also have had a cracked toilet flush valve. In both cases I was glad to have the shutoff valve. Hoping my stainless steel braid reinforced supply line and upgraded toilet valve with supposedly a more freeze resistant polymer keeps us trouble free for awhile.

If you have hard pex that extends right through to the bath uninterrupted I can see an argument to locate the valve further upstream. If you do put a valve under the bed you are exactly right it will shut off the sink/shower too along with the toilet supply. It may also shut off cold water to an outside shower if your trailer is equipped with one on the driver's side. If we didn't already have a valve in the dinette seat area up front this would be a compelling option if you can get access to install.

If you have room for the handle swing you should be able to use something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-B...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks for the advice. Given I have turned the DS dinette bench into an electrical closet, I will add a valve under the bed. Thanks for the link.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Kingfish

Thanks. Just the info I need. I'm gonna order one whether I need it now or not. How do I determine the model number of the toilet?

You can try the side near the rear on the right as indicated on the graphic attached. A visual should be good enough too. If the toilet looks like the model in the links below you definitely have the Aqua-Magic V (hand flush or foot pedal variants possible - but they use the same flush valve). I don’t recall Escape using any other toilet although I can’t say 100%.
https://www.thetford.com/part/aqua-magic-v-hand-flush/
https://www.thetford.com/part/aqua-m...t-pedal-flush/

[cpaharley2008]

Dave, I like your labeling of circuits, something I'll have to do in the future...........

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Dave, I like your labeling of circuits, something I'll have to do in the future...........

Thanks Jim. Did that as part of my recent electrical upgrades which involved tracing all circuits to determine what would be pulled off the WFCO power center breakers and landed in my new sub-panel to be feed from inverter.

[Kingfish]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

Like others have stated, the leak is likely the toilet valve. I had one freeze and crack in my old Casita. Do install a H20 shut-off valve to the toilet. They can save a trip and are pretty easy to install. A Shark-bite valve snaps on the PEX line quickly. Cutting the PEX is tough....a fine tooth saw will work well.

After removing the toilet I discovered a pinhole size leak in the water supply line just below the fitting at the back of the toilet. Apparently, I will need to replace the fitting with one using a barb style rather the the pex style with a copper compression ring that Escape used. The hose is still plenty long. Can anyone advise what size the supply line hose is and/or what fitting would work?