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06-26-2015, 09:31 PM
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#81
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Can't I just remove and 45 the baffle there ? All the idea's for installation you have for the cavity . Also see that piece of metal wired on the fins ? The pipe should"t I move higher to go above frig ? Pat Ps was thinking of form board that is faced . I do have reflex it . Pat
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Need to go out and tape up gas line .
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06-26-2015, 10:36 PM
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#82
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Marana, Arizona
Trailer: 2018 Airstream Flying Cloud (Escape 19 & 5.0 previously)
Posts: 1,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Need to go out and tape up gas line .
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Take a day off. You've done the hard part.
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06-26-2015, 10:44 PM
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#83
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardoz
Take a day off. You've done the hard part.
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Talk again Sunday . Pat
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06-27-2015, 07:31 AM
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#84
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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What you need to do on the thermo switch is add a switch in parallel. The thermo switch just closes to turn on the fans. The problem is it's a 150 degree switch and it never closes. Remove the 2 wires and get some small spade connectors that fit the terminals. Add a extra wire to each terminal along with with the original wires. You will have 2 wires on each terminal. Run the new extra wires to your new switch location. When you turn on the switch it is the same as the thermo switch closing. It will jump the switch and turn on your fan. In the picture you will see my switch wires going back over the top of the fridge.
__________________
Tom
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06-27-2015, 07:34 AM
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#85
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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If you want to do something with the flue exhaust this is what I did. I made a taller flue to get it just above the condenser. You have to make sure you don't make it to tall and you will be able to slide the fridge back in. You can also see my switch wires again going back over the top of the fridge.
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Tom
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06-27-2015, 07:36 AM
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#86
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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Another picture.
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Tom
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06-27-2015, 07:41 AM
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#87
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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One more
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Tom
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06-27-2015, 09:17 AM
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#88
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 -- The Skylark. Towed by a 2014 Highlander
Posts: 1,159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper
If you want to do something with the flue exhaust this is what I did. I made a taller flue to get it just above the condenser. You have to make sure you don't make it to tall and you will be able to slide the fridge back in. You can also see my switch wires again going back over the top of the fridge.
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It seems to me like raising the flue would help any fridge. Tom, did it make any difference for your fridge?
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06-27-2015, 09:30 AM
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#89
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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I did so many things when I was doing all this it's hard to say what helped the most but I'm sure not having the flue exhaust go over the condenser helped the refrigeration process. You can see the before and after in the 2 pictures. I think this is a bigger problem on the 4.3 than the 6.7 fridge.
__________________
Tom
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06-29-2015, 06:30 PM
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#90
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Marana, Arizona
Trailer: 2018 Airstream Flying Cloud (Escape 19 & 5.0 previously)
Posts: 1,078
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Pat, I hope all is still going according to plan and that you haven't hit any roadblocks on your project. Just found a picture of the switch I put on the face of the control panel and thought I'd share it with you. It's a simple, single-pole switch from Radio Shack (good luck finding one) but any similar switch will work. Used a spade bit for the hole. It's directly wired to the fan and powered by tapping into a 12v outlet I installed over the fridge. Keep us posted on your progress! - Rich
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06-29-2015, 06:57 PM
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#91
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardoz
Pat, I hope all is still going according to plan and that you haven't hit any roadblocks on your project. Just found a picture of the switch I put on the face of the control panel and thought I'd share it with you. It's a simple, single-pole switch from Radio Shack (good luck finding one) but any similar switch will work. Used a spade bit for the hole. It's directly wired to the fan and powered by tapping into a 12v outlet I installed over the fridge. Keep us posted on your progress! - Rich
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Hi Rich have not forgotten you guys . It is very HOT here . I have tried to go outside can't . And Tomorrow they are shutting off our power starting in morning . I did talk to Reace this morning and I need to put back the metal brown piece on back I took off . Also he said to not extend the pipe on the boiler .I have been reading up on insulating cavity from Dometic . Also the exposed wood I want to coat in there . I did also call Dometic what a waste of time . I received my little snip the tip in mail today . Ok great place for switch on yours , I like it . I have some . I need a drawing on this switch I can follow . You are talking to a know nothing when it comes to electrical. Reace said to move that switch at back closer to chimney .The one suppose to control my fan . I noticed it goes into control box It just clamps on pipe .
there . I want to be able to control the fan myself . Can I ? Told you this is going to be slow . Once I put this frig back , I don't want to remove it again . This heat is the killer right now . Pat
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06-29-2015, 07:16 PM
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#92
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,213
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Hey Pat- you're welcome to tow it up here, park it and do the work. We have room and the temps are mid 60's. Mine is going in Wednesday to SLO for warranty exchange.
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06-29-2015, 07:20 PM
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#93
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Hey Pat- you're welcome to tow it up here, park it and do the work. We have room and the temps are mid 60's. Mine is going in Wednesday to SLO for warranty exchange.
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How did you get this ? I can't right now but wish I could take you up on your offer . But really how ? Pat
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06-29-2015, 07:22 PM
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#94
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,213
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We have the 6.7. Come on up if you can.
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06-29-2015, 08:08 PM
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#95
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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The problem with just moving the switch closer to the chimney is the fans may run when you don't want them to and never shut off. You have no control. Someone else on the forum did this and was complaining that they ran to much even in cooler weather.
I would not suggest extending the flue unless you can make a exact copy of the existing flue.
__________________
Tom
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06-29-2015, 09:38 PM
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#96
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper
The problem with just moving the switch closer to the chimney is the fans may run when you don't want them to and never shut off. You have no control. Someone else on the forum did this and was complaining that they ran to much even in cooler weather.
I would not suggest extending the flue unless you can make a exact copy of the existing flue.
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Ok Tom how can I have a switch and have control ? My brother told me to take a hair dryer on switch and see if the fan even works after I just plug 120 in . I need a diagram to follow what I need to do with the switch . Pst
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06-29-2015, 09:54 PM
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#97
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Ok Tom how can I have a switch and have control ? My brother told me to take a hair dryer on switch and see if the fan even works after I just plug 120 in . I need a diagram to follow what I need to do with the switch . Pst
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Tom I think I should explain I called Dometic to get their extension for that pipe however because I didn't have the proper part number they couldn't help me . I know they have one because it is on their website . Never asked them to help with frig cooling been there and did that long time ago .what about that metal on back of frig ? Pat
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06-29-2015, 09:56 PM
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#98
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Marana, Arizona
Trailer: 2018 Airstream Flying Cloud (Escape 19 & 5.0 previously)
Posts: 1,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Hi Rich have not forgotten you guys . It is very HOT here . I have tried to go outside can't . And Tomorrow they are shutting off our power starting in morning . I did talk to Reace this morning and I need to put back the metal brown piece on back I took off . Also he said to not extend the pipe on the boiler .I have been reading up on insulating cavity from Dometic . Also the exposed wood I want to coat in there . I did also call Dometic what a waste of time . I received my little snip the tip in mail today . Ok great place for switch on yours , I like it . I have some . I need a drawing on this switch I can follow . You are talking to a know nothing when it comes to electrical. Reace said to move that switch at back closer to chimney .The one suppose to control my fan . I noticed it goes into control box It just clamps on pipe .
there . I want to be able to control the fan myself . Can I ? Told you this is going to be slow . Once I put this frig back , I don't want to remove it again . This heat is the killer right now . Pat
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Hey, Pat - maybe you should work the graveyard shift when it's cooler . I cut all the factory wires on the fans, trashed the piece attached to the condenser, and rewired them to run off a 12V power supply I had previously installed nearby. They can only run when I turn on that switch I posted. One of your photos shows you also have power nearby that I bet you can use. That make sense?
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06-29-2015, 10:01 PM
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#99
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardoz
Hey, Pat - maybe you should work the graveyard shift when it's cooler . I cut all the factory wires on the fans, trashed the piece attached to the condenser, and rewired them to run off a 12V power supply I had previously installed nearby. They can only run when I turn on that switch I posted. One of your photos shows you also have power nearby that I bet you can use. That make sense?
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Rich makes sense . The switch is wired into the control box ? Do I just cut that wire and forget about it . Just wire that fan on the back like I did my inside fan ? It is that simple ? Pat
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06-30-2015, 07:53 AM
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#100
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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If you just jump across the 2 wires on the thermo switch the fans will run if you have 12 volt power to the fridge or take the wires off the switch and touch them together. All the thermo switch does is close the contacts inside when it get to 150 degrees and completes the circuit to allow the fans to run. The new switch is just installed across the same 2 terminals of the thermo switch and bypasses the thermo switch and makes the fan run when turned on. Leave to original 2 wires on the switch and add 2 wires (one more to each terminal) that you run to the new switch. If you touch the ends of these new wires together it will jump the switch and will be the same as turning on the new switch and your fans will run.
Or you can take the thermo switch out of the circuit like Rich did and rewire the fans supplying them their own 12 volt power supply but I think the easiest way is to just jump the thermo switch with a manual switch.
My switch is located in the upper cabinet above the fridge.
Hope this helps
__________________
Tom
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