Solar power and circuit breakers

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

you probably need a better crimper.

I'm using the West Mountain Radio crimper made specifically for Powerpoles. Crimping connectors is one of those jobs that seems to require three hands: one to hold the loose parts in place and two more to operate the crimper. I'm sure with more practice I'd get better, but at this point I still don't completely trust my Powerpole crimps.

West Mountain Radio - PWRcrimp - Crimp Tool for Powerpole® Connectors

[fudge_brownie]

I like what Jon states about installing a kill switch between the rooftop panels and the controller. I think Escape is remiss in not installing such a switch as it is recommended practice to give the user the ability to isolate the panels for maintenance purposes. Especially as they are difficult to isolate by covering. Not sure how the factory install handles fusing between the panel and controller but it should be present as well, per the gist of this thread.

In case you are wanting to crimp large wires I have used this tool from Amazon. Works quite well.
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-Hydra...s%2C181&sr=8-6

Finally to join different gauge of wires together, it is possible to use grounding blocks, available at big box or even hardware stores. There also are specialty blocks made specifically for solar installations. Some are called solar combiner blocks.

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

Finally to join different gauge of wires together, it is possible to use grounding blocks, available at big box or even hardware stores.

I saw these in Lowe's but couldn't figure out how to use them to splice a small wire into a larger wire. I ended up attaching the big positive wire from my rooftop panels and the smaller one from my SAE connector for a portable panel to the load terminal on the 50A breaker that I installed on the panel side of the controller. I mounted a terminal stud to connect the negative panel wires, then connected it to the negative terminal on the controller.

I agree that the yellow hydraulic crimper from Amazon works well. I've used it on AWG 6 and AWG 10 wire so far. I'm happy with those crimps.

[Jim Bennett]

My two DC breakers, one on either side of the controller. Recommended size by local solar shop for my loads. I do have a small box to put them in that was not in stock at the time of original install, but just have not got time to use it.

[fudge_brownie]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

I saw these in Lowe's but couldn't figure out how to use them to splice a small wire into a larger wire.

For larger wire sizes, just separate the ends and screw into multiple holes.

Take the smaller gauge wire and combine with a larger gauge before inserting into the hole.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

I'm using the West Mountain Radio crimper made specifically for Powerpoles. Crimping connectors is one of those jobs that seems to require three hands: one to hold the loose parts in place and two more to operate the crimper. I'm sure with more practice I'd get better, but at this point I still don't completely trust my Powerpole crimps.

West Mountain Radio - PWRcrimp - Crimp Tool for Powerpole® Connectors

hmm, that does look like a good one.

re three hands, I put the crimp in the crimper, lightly press down on it to secure it, insert the wire into the open end of the crimp, then crimp away. hmm, reading the instructions for the WMR crimper, it says to do this for the PP45's but not the 15s or 30s. it does emphasis you must get the 'split' side of the wire sleeve in the right orientation.

I always pull pretty hard on the crimp and wire after crimping but before assembling into the PP shell to ensure its snug.

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

I saw these in Lowe's but couldn't figure out how to use them to splice a small wire into a larger wire. I ended up attaching the big positive wire from my rooftop panels and the smaller one from my SAE connector for a portable panel to the load terminal on the 50A breaker that I installed on the panel side of the controller. I mounted a terminal stud to connect the negative panel wires, then connected it to the negative terminal on the controller.

I agree that the yellow hydraulic crimper from Amazon works well. I've used it on AWG 6 and AWG 10 wire so far. I'm happy with those crimps.

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

I like what Jon states about installing a kill switch between the rooftop panels and the controller. I think Escape is remiss in not installing such a switch as it is recommended practice to give the user the ability to isolate the panels for maintenance purposes. Especially as they are difficult to isolate by covering. Not sure how the factory install handles fusing between the panel and controller but it should be present as well, per the gist of this thread.

In case you are wanting to crimp large wires I have used this tool from Amazon. Works quite well.
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-Hydra...s%2C181&sr=8-6

Finally to join different gauge of wires together, it is possible to use grounding blocks, available at big box or even hardware stores. There also are specialty blocks made specifically for solar installations. Some are called solar combiner blocks.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

My two DC breakers, one on either side of the controller. Recommended size by local solar shop for my loads. I do have a small box to put them in that was not in stock at the time of original install, but just have not got time to use it.

Attachment 43044

Thanks all,
I think I will go with 2 small insulated busbars to connect the solar panels to each other (roof and Zamp) after 1st running each thru a breaker separately. Then a 3rd breaker for controller to battery, all in a mini box.
Way safer/easier to control than current wire nuts with no breakers.


http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/im...attach/jpg.gif

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by Berndad

Thanks all,
I think I will go with 2 small insulated busbars to connect the solar panels to each other (roof and Zamp) after 1st running each thru a breaker separately. Then a 3rd breaker for controller to battery, all in a mini box.
Way safer/easier to control than current wire nuts with no breakers.


http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/im...attach/jpg.gif

Victron 100/30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berndad View Post
Up and running!
Discovered that I could use the existing Go Power controller as a switch for my inverter by running 2 small leads to the battery side.
It also functions as an additional Voltmeter and USB port stays active as well
So I was able to save the $ on the remote inverter switch.
The Networking is super simple as you stated and is great!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/im...attach/jpg.gif
I also plan on upgrading the connections and wire ETI used when I get a chance.
They used a short lead of much smaller gauge to go from the 2 roof mounted solar panels and Zamp port which are wire nut connected as seen in the photo.
To get up and running I just moved the existing wiring from 1 controller to the next.

Here is my current pre fix set up:

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/im...attach/jpg.gif

[John in Santa Cruz]

I've combined different large gauge wires by using a non-insulated sleeve splice (not sure the correct name) where all the wires overlap and enter from the same side. The splice should be just big enough to go around this combined bundle. after crimping, you shrink-wrap or wrap with silicone fusion tape.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I've combined different large gauge wires by using a non-insulated sleeve splice (not sure the correct name) where all the wires overlap and enter from the same side. The splice should be just big enough to go around this combined bundle. after crimping, you shrink-wrap or wrap with silicone fusion tape.

In my case there was no need to splice larger gauge to smaller gauge wires. My large gauge multistrand wires would not fit into my MPPT controller when I set up my solar power system. My simple solution was to snip a few of the individual strands at the stripped end portion of the multistrand wire until the gauge was small enough to fit into the controller. Could do the same at the breakers if necessary.

[Vermilye]

In my case the circuit breaker I used had lugs that let me use ring terminals that matched the wire sizes.

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

In my case the circuit breaker I used had lugs that let me use ring terminals that matched the wire sizes.

Would you mind sending a photo or letting me know what breakers you used?
Thanks,
It would save a lot of extra wiring and expense if I could do that, sounds similar to what Mike Lewis did.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Berndad

Would you mind sending a photo or letting me know what breakers you used?
Thanks,
It would save a lot of extra wiring and expense if I could do that, sounds similar to what Mike Lewis did.

This is the one I used.

[jxoco]

I just push the un equal sizes of striped wire into each other.
Heat up and solder and then heat shrink a tube over the join.
I know that the join is not mechanical but ,so far, none have failed me.

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by jxoco

I just push the un equal sizes of striped wire into each other.
Heat up and solder and then heat shrink a tube over the join.
I know that the join is not mechanical but ,so far, none have failed me.

Originally Posted by Vermilye

This is the one I used.

Thanks!

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

This is the one I used.

Yes, this is similar to what I did. Wish my breaker had those terminal caps, though.

Jon and I can take solace in the fact that if our trailers founder and sink to the bottom of a lake, our circuit breakers will still function as they are waterproof.

[Mike Lewis]

Here is what I have so far. This is a work in progress.

Inside battery comparment, from L to R:
- Two 100 amp-hr gold bars, er, lithium batteries
- battery switch on the front of the compartment
- behind it, terminal stud to connect battery negative to shunt
- existing Samlex inverter. I moved its remote to the far left. The remote is worn out and needs replacing, since I'm a slave to the microwave.
- above the Samlex is a 50A fuse for the solar controller
- to the right of this is a 40A breaker for my "local bus", described below
- a Sterling B2B charger and a Victron solar controller mounted on boards that I installed
- a terminal stud for the negative leads from the rooftop panels and the SAE connector for a portable panel. A wire from this goes to the controller's negative terminal.
- out of sight beneath this terminal stud is a cellular amplifier. Its interior antenna is in an upper compartment; the outside antenna will be mounted on a pole when needed.

On the compartment lid, L to R:
- an Icom IC-7100 ham radio. It connects to a control head via the keystone connectors on the front of the compartment.
- The fuse block for the local bus. It sends power to the Icom, the TV and its powered antenna, a cellular amp, etc.
- at the upper right is the 50A breaker for the solar panels. The big orange wire is from the rooftop panels, the smaller red wire is from the SAE connector for a portable panel.
- beneath the breaker is the negative bus bar for the "local bus". It connects to the shunt

Still to do:
- connect HF antenna and antenna tuner to the radio
- connect the B2B charger. I want to scrape and paint the trailer frame before installing a conduit for the wire. Hope to do it while I still have warm days here.
- connect power to the cellular amp.

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

Here is what I have so far. This is a work in progress.

Inside battery comparment, from L to R:
- Two 100 amp-hr gold bars, er, lithium batteries
- battery switch on the front of the compartment
- behind it, terminal stud to connect battery negative to shunt
- existing Samlex inverter. I moved its remote to the far left. The remote is worn out and needs replacing, since I'm a slave to the microwave.
- above the Samlex is a 50A fuse for the solar controller
- to the right of this is a 40A breaker for my "local bus", described below
- a Sterling B2B charger and a Victron solar controller mounted on boards that I installed
- a terminal stud for the negative leads from the rooftop panels and the SAE connector for a portable panel. A wire from this goes to the controller's negative terminal.
- out of sight beneath this terminal stud is a cellular amplifier. Its interior antenna is in an upper compartment; the outside antenna will be mounted on a pole when needed.

On the compartment lid, L to R:
- an Icom IC-7100 ham radio. It connects to a control head via the keystone connectors on the front of the compartment.
- The fuse block for the local bus. It sends power to the Icom, the TV and its powered antenna, a cellular amp, etc.
- at the upper right is the 50A breaker for the solar panels. The big orange wire is from the rooftop panels, the smaller red wire is from the SAE connector for a portable panel.
- beneath the breaker is the negative bus bar for the "local bus". It connects to the shunt

Still to do:
- connect HF antenna and antenna tuner to the radio
- connect the B2B charger. I want to scrape and paint the trailer frame before installing a conduit for the wire. Hope to do it while I still have warm days here.
- connect power to the cellular amp.

Looks good.
I like the way you use the seat bottom with wire holders for strain relief.
What size wire are you using to connect to the controller, #6 awg ?
I was going to go with either 6 or 8, a big upgrade from original install and use Bussman 30 amp breaker for my Panels to Controller, but thinking I could upgrade to 40 amp. Little chance of needing to protect the 10 gauge Zamp port wiring with just my portable panel producing current. And I think ETI used 8 gauge from the roof mounted panels.

[Mike Lewis]

I used 6 gauge wire to the controller because that was the largest gauge it would accept. Coincidentally AM Solar used 6 gauge wire coming down from the rooftop panels. The connector for a portable panel had 10 gauge leads. I connected the 6 and 10 gauge wires to the 50A breaker and terminal stud via ring connectors, then used 6 gauge wire from the breaker and terminal to the controller.

[Ron in BC]

Wow, pretty impressive.

Ron