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Old 01-21-2018, 01:27 PM   #41
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:17 PM   #42
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For what it's worth, you only have to remove 8 short screws to remove the ETI installed microwave, and that exposes the extra 120V AC outlet at the back of the cabinet that the microwave comes plugged in to. So I think it is worth considering getting the ETI-installed microwave, and then if you decide that for a certain camping trip that you'd rather have the additional cabinet space rather than the microwave, just pull the microwave out and leave it at home for that trip. Next time you want it, just slip it back in, secure it with the 8 screws, and go. Just a thought....
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:37 PM   #43
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For those who haven't seen or taken notice of it, here are some photos of how ETI factory installs the microwave they offer. Note four metal mounting brackets (two each side, near top and bottom), each held to the cabinet face by two screws. The brackets are mounted to the sides of the microwave (you can kind of see that in the last photo), so when you remove the 8 screws on the face of the cabinet, the brackets come out with the microwave. Makes it really easy to re-mount. Just slide the microwave back in the cabinet, and the screw holes all line back up naturally.
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:43 PM   #44
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and you will be amazed at the amount of available space behind the microwave.....
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:53 PM   #45
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and you will be amazed at the amount of available space behind the microwave.....
Great place to hide extra dog treats and hope your dogs never figure out how to use a screwdriver!
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:01 PM   #46
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The inverter subject is proving to be difficult. Opinions go both ways for many reasons, and I wish it were black and white! I still feel like I'm making the decision mainly for the microwave, but I guess it's also for versatility, however that may present itself.

As someone asked, yes we hope to have it for the long-haul, so we shouldn't do everything for resale. That being said, Escape's resale makes us more comfortable making the purchase. It is good to know though that a decision against an inverter wouldn't be tragic. I am leaning toward yes due to the options it may afford, though I'm struggling to think of anything earth shattering. For all of the great input I wish I were closer to a choice!
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:14 PM   #47
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Since you are very much on the fence I would tell you that two people at least here didn't get it and wish they had and it was no less money yet a lot more hassle to have it installed later- especially with the transfer switch.

We use ours for a variety of things, none if which are essential, however very nice to be able to do so when boondocking. Resale is the last reason we got one- it didn't even cross my mind.
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:22 PM   #48
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:52 PM   #49
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Since you are very much on the fence I would tell you that two people at least here didn't get it and wish they had and it was no less money yet a lot more hassle to have it installed later- especially with the transfer switch.
Yes, this does factor in my decision. Seems like big hassle!
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Old 01-21-2018, 11:16 PM   #50
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No wrong answer. There are always alternate solutions if/when you discover a need. On a side note, the original owners of our 2010 EggCamper added an inverter by the bed and a bank of three 12V batteries on the tongue themselves after purchase to run a pair of CPAP machines through the night while boondocking. They had a need, they made a mod that met their need. No big deal. We had no need, so we removed the inverter and dropped back to one 12V battery, but the wiring is still there if we'd ever want to go back to it.
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Old 01-22-2018, 03:21 AM   #51
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question on how many 12v plugs to add. if i were to use a plug-in splitter/converter? to change 120v to 12v, i can't use this while on battery power to use a 120v outlet like a 12v right? those 120v outlets won't be getting any power right?
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Old 01-22-2018, 03:32 AM   #52
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Are you asking if you could run a plug-in 120v to 12v converter off the batteries? If so, yes, technically possible if you have an inverter that is first changing the battery’s 12V to 120V, but you really shouldn’t do this as it’s terribly energy inefficient.

If you want to run something off 12V but don’t have a 12V outlet in the appropriate location, I would suggest a 12V extension cord.

I feel like I’m misunderstanding your question though, so apologies if my answer is amiss.
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Old 01-22-2018, 03:55 AM   #53
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Are you asking if you could run a plug-in 120v to 12v converter off the batteries? If so, yes, technically possible if you have an inverter that is first changing the battery’s 12V to 120V, but you really shouldn’t do this as it’s terribly energy inefficient.

If you want to run something off 12V but don’t have a 12V outlet in the appropriate location, I would suggest a 12V extension cord.

I feel like I’m misunderstanding your question though, so apologies if my answer is amiss.
no that's it. it was just that bad of a question. you can't just use a 120v outlet and somehow only pull 12v out of it while on battery power (without doing some crazy like you mentioned). just checking i'm really not THAT dense all around, but i really am impossible with electricity and electronics!
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Old 01-22-2018, 04:09 AM   #54
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Ah, so no, unless you’re running an inverter, your 120V outlets will be dead when running on battery power. And the only way to get 12V out of a 120V outlet in any case, is to plug a portable 120V to 12V converter into it. Again, not practical. Better to have ETI add more outlets wherever you think you might want them. The combo USB/12V outlets that they offer are really nice. Lots of things plug into USB these days.
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Old 01-22-2018, 09:32 AM   #55
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We have a portable inverter which we purchased in 2013
We have never used it but we still carry it around
WHY, I don't know
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:05 AM   #56
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We have a portable inverter which we purchased in 2013
We have never used it but we still carry it around
WHY, I don't know
Probably just a nagging thought in the back of your mind that someday you will want it and if you eliminate it, then when that someday comes, you will wish you had it. We carry a cook stove on every trip but haven’t used it in two years; do all our cooking on the grill or in a slow cooker. I would suspect most everyone takes along equipment that they rarely use or may never use.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:18 AM   #57
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A AA charger for rechargeable batteries might be neat for travel, I don't know if you can get that in 12v.
You can. Maha makes battery chargers that use either 12V or 120V, depending upon the adaptor you connect the charger to. I have one that will charge either AA or AAA rechargeable batteries.
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Old 01-22-2018, 11:09 AM   #58
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Ah, so no, unless you’re running an inverter, your 120V outlets will be dead when running on battery power. And the only way to get 12V out of a 120V outlet in any case, is to plug a portable 120V to 12V converter into it. Again, not practical. Better to have ETI add more outlets wherever you think you might want them. The combo USB/12V outlets that they offer are really nice. Lots of things plug into USB these days.
Scott, As a generality, with the standard electrical circuitry installed by ETI, the on-board 12V battery only powers the 12V DC things in a camper. That would include the LED lights, fans, 12V outlets, electrical monitors for fridge, water tank levels, etc. And there is a bank of automotive blade-style fuses protecting these 12V DC circuits. Your 120V outlets and 120V appliances like microwave, A/C, etc., are dead in the water unless plugged in to 120V AC shore power or a generator. When you plug into shore power (or a generator) for 120V AC power, there is a bank of home-style breakers through which you now have power to your 120V AC outlets, A/C, water heater if you get the 2-way option, etc. Interestingly, all your 12V stuff still works off the on-board battery, but the 120V AC power also powers an on-board converter (120V AC to 12V DC) that keeps your battery charged while using the 12V DC stuff. The fridge is the odd duck, depending on what model you have, it can run off propane, 12V or 120V depending the settings you select. I hope that helps. Anyone, please feel free to correct any mistakes or misrepresentations I've made above.
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Old 01-22-2018, 12:05 PM   #59
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Dale that sound about right although I am pretty dumb when it comes to things electrical as well. As I mentioned before we are getting a DC to DC converter for the CPAP and trying it out in March. If all works well I don't think I would get the inverter should we order a new 5.0TA for next year. Cost is something that would drive that decision since the $950 for inverter to all outlets or the $650 to just one outlet would be quite a bit more once we add on our lovely 13% tax.

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Old 01-22-2018, 12:35 PM   #60
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Thank you, Dale, but I’m good with the trailers electrical systems. I was trying to help sort out things for Adrienne.
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