Load management device

[bristol5.0]

I installed a 120 V King electric heater in our 5.0 trailer. It fits the need for gentle quiet heat for our type of camping: 3 seasons in the Northeast and winter in the Florida panhandle. It has a dedicated 15 amp circuit and it’s configured at 1000 W. I added another circuit and 15 amp breaker to our power center. Many thanks to CharlesinGA who quoted and explained the appropriate NEC regulations. This 6th circuit on our panel and the additional thermostatically controlled device violated those regulations. The solution was a Parallax ALS20 energy management device. It allows 2 loads to operate from a single circuit by having a priority load - the space heater, and a shed load - the water heater. So while the space heater is operating the water header is shed. I also used the opportunity to install an in-line interior switch for the eclectic water heater element. The water heater can always be used in propane mode if needed.

[splitting_lanes]

That’s a cool device. Being able to shed the electric hot water heater would have helped us during a camping trip we were on in August. Thanks for sharing.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by bristol5.0

I installed a 120 V King electric heater in our 5.0 trailer.

Great heater, so quiet and no cords to trip over.

I wasn't too worried about NEC rules, I just installed a dedicated breaker.

Not much difference between using a freestanding heater, which I've been doing for years, or having one running on it's own breaker. Actually, I set mine to 750W and it's been quite adequate. It might run a little longer but that's not a bad thing because it's moving the heat around more.

Ron

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by bristol5.0

I installed a 120 V King electric heater in our 5.0 trailer. It fits the need for gentle quiet heat for our type of camping: 3 seasons in the Northeast and winter in the Florida panhandle. It has a dedicated 15 amp circuit and it’s configured at 1000 W. I added another circuit and 15 amp breaker to our power center. Many thanks to CharlesinGA who quoted and explained the appropriate NEC regulations. This 6th circuit on our panel and the additional thermostatically controlled device violated those regulations. The solution was a Parallax ALS20 energy management device. It allows 2 loads to operate from a single circuit by having a priority load - the space heater, and a shed load - the water heater. So while the space heater is operating the water header is shed. I also used the opportunity to install an in-line interior switch for the eclectic water heater element. The water heater can always be used in propane mode if needed.

Your welcome, glad someone was able to make use of the information.

Charles

[C&G in FL]

I typically use a 900/1500 watt quartz heater, set on the middle of the dinette table to heat my trailer, but I do not do any seriously cold weather camping. I’ve always used the 900 watt setting, and I have a plug in outlet block controlled a thermostatic remote control which keeps the temperature within a narrow range. The remote control can easily be switched between F and C. Found it on Amazon (not an endorsement of Amazon, however). No additional breaker or hardwired infrastructure needed.

[iamunique127]

Which King heaters are you guys using and where is a good place to get them?

[bristol5.0]

Originally Posted by iamunique127

Which King heaters are you guys using and where is a good place to get them?

I used the KING PAW model with switch/thermostat mounted on the unit. They are widely available - I got mine from Amazon. It is designed for mounting to standard residential wall framing. I reinforced the attachment of the heating/fan unit to the shell. It can be wired for output of 250-1500 Watts. We found 1000 W to be perfect for us. http://king-electric.com/product/model-paw/ has excellent instructions and engineering specs.

[iamunique127]

Thanks for the info, George

[StillCampin]

I love the idea of a load shedding device as I had a multiple circuit one in my previous RV. It was a 50 amp RV and the load shedding was for when connected to 30 amp service.

Personally, I moved to tandem breakers in the inverter sub panel to reduce multiple outlets on each breaker AND when I switched to a lithium capable power center I installed a 50 amp panel which starts with breaker spaces galore compared to a 30 amp panel. Until I actually switched to 50 amp input I used the second buss bar as a sub-panel.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by bristol5.0

I used the KING PAW model with switch/thermostat mounted on the unit.

I used the same one and same source. I mounted an independent thermostat on the side of the drawer stack. Different trailer models have different layouts so for the 21C I think that's a better location to be sensing ambient temperature.

Ron