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Old 04-13-2017, 04:58 PM   #21
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Tom,
To avoid confusion, please post the date of this email, so that it does not appear to be todays information, thanks.
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Old 04-13-2017, 05:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Not aware of any tape fix, just the pictures and tube of Proflex Escape sent out to customers earlier instructing us to remove the expanding foam and seal the wall/front joint area. Now we are sealing the vent area, where was the tape area information posted?
It was posted for you not being aware of the tape fix but I added the date of February 28th to it.
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:20 PM   #23
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Here is the inside of our refrigerator compartment. I do not see all the goop they had you install on yours. But I do notice little wood dams installed. This was completed on March 28th so it should be after your fixes.
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Old 04-13-2017, 10:08 PM   #24
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... But I do notice little wood dams installed. ...
Which prompts a question. With all the scrap fiberglass ETI must have laying around from cutting out windows and such, why do they use scraps of wood, prone to molding and decomposing over time, to form that water dam in the fridge compartment. I saw a 2-month old Escape 21 a month or so back in which those little wood pieces were already turning black with mold. So again, why do you suppose ETI uses wood instead of fiberglass to form the water dam? On the surface, it just doesn't make sense, given their whole purpose for being their suggests they will be in contact with moisture.
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Old 04-13-2017, 10:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Which prompts a question. With all the scrap fiberglass ETI must have laying around from cutting out windows and such, why do they use scraps of wood, prone to molding and decomposing over time, to form that water dam in the fridge compartment. I saw a 2-month old Escape 21 a month or so back in which those little wood pieces were already turning black with mold. So again, why do you suppose ETI uses wood instead of fiberglass to form the water dam? On the surface, it just doesn't make sense, given their whole purpose for being their suggests they will be in contact with moisture.
This was a problem on Casitas; quite a few people had me make "L" shaped pieces to form a dammed area (sic) that mounted with closed call VHB tape. Could easy do that with some aluminum angle from Home Depot/Loews type store using a hacksaw and goober the corners closed.
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Old 04-13-2017, 11:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
With all the scrap fiberglass ETI must have laying around from cutting out windows and such, why do they use scraps of wood, prone to molding and decomposing over time, to form that water dam in the fridge compartment.
...
So again, why do you suppose ETI uses wood instead of fiberglass to form the water dam?
I suppose it would be a lot more effort to cut the fiberglass sheet into strips, and to use 3/16" thick strips on edge. How would they be fastened in place and sealed to the compartment floor?

If a lot of effort were to go into making a bottom for the refrigerator compartment at the factory, I would think a moulded fiberglass floor pan (with edges turned up to meet the walls on three sides, a lip turned down on the exterior edge, and an integrated drain) would be more desirable.
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Old 04-14-2017, 12:06 AM   #27
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I need to take another close look, but I think ETI is simply using a thick bead of ProFlex to hold the wood strips in place. Seems one could use the same method for fiberglass strips. Or just have ETI do an original factory install of one of the ways Charlie mentions above. Seems most anything would be more durable than little strips of composite wood.
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Old 04-14-2017, 07:09 AM   #28
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Yes, I agree this is starting to look like a Rube Goldberg fix, a proper pan with lips, sealed to exterior and interior would allow any water to drain out properly, a proper vent that would keep most water out but still allow the refer to operate efficiently in hot weather.
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Old 04-14-2017, 07:14 AM   #29
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Karen,
Does your unit have foam or Proflex along the exterior wall/vent enclosure? You may still have to "fix" your compartment. It appears you are getting water in looking at the spots of dirt that have been wet on your black condenser unit.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:14 AM   #30
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No this doesn't affect you. You have a 5.0TA classic, this is for the second generation models only.
Thanks Donna
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Old 04-15-2017, 06:48 PM   #31
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Karen,
Does your unit have foam or Proflex along the exterior wall/vent enclosure? You may still have to "fix" your compartment. It appears you are getting water in looking at the spots of dirt that have been wet on your black condenser unit.
The fixes they send to you must not make it to production. Here is ours
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Old 04-15-2017, 07:07 PM   #32
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T-Mobile sucks. Third try sending this. There is foam along the wall where the wood meets the insulation. There is a clear sealant along the front and along the wood dams. Non of the screws are sealed. We will cover and wait to see what the final fix is rather than glop it up.
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Old 04-15-2017, 08:13 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
If a lot of effort were to go into making a bottom for the refrigerator compartment at the factory, I would think a moulded fiberglass floor pan (with edges turned up to meet the walls on three sides, a lip turned down on the exterior edge, and an integrated drain) would be more desirable.
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Old 04-15-2017, 08:22 PM   #34
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curious - is this the vent that is being discussed?
Dometic 24 " Vent
3109350.011
039881885

The label on the vent is on the inside of the removable vent part and not the frame that holds it.
the one at hand says Rev G 10/24/16 on it so assuming they started with the A..they have made several attempts to design this critter.

so trying to understand this correctly...with any of several trailers that use this Dometic fridge vent and have flat exterior sides... there is a potential for water to enter thru this vent around the edges or wind driven...but what is important, is how the trailer mfg fridge cabinet design captures the water inside and allows it to drain out of the trailer...and this was not an issue on the previous Escape design because the vent was sloped upward at the bottom with curved walls.
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:11 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Which prompts a question. With all the scrap fiberglass ETI must have laying around from cutting out windows and such, why do they use scraps of wood, prone to molding and decomposing over time, to form that water dam in the fridge compartment. I saw a 2-month old Escape 21 a month or so back in which those little wood pieces were already turning black with mold. So again, why do you suppose ETI uses wood instead of fiberglass to form the water dam? On the surface, it just doesn't make sense, given their whole purpose for being their suggests they will be in contact with moisture.
agree..using any material (of which there are many) in this area that is impervious to water seems a good choice, but the pics seem to show wood used extensively in the fridge cabinet area along the sides and perhaps the framing as well.
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:06 PM   #36
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so trying to understand this correctly...with any of several trailers that use this Dometic fridge vent and have flat exterior sides... there is a potential for water to enter thru this vent around the edges or wind driven...but what is important, is how the trailer mfg fridge cabinet design captures the water inside and allows it to drain out of the trailer...and this was not an issue on the previous Escape design because the vent was sloped upward at the bottom with curved walls.
The old vent did not have a center insert that was removable. The entire outside piece was removable. The new vent has a crack around the outside where the insert sits in. The top and sides have a flange that will not allow water in. The bottom does not so that propane can escape if there is a leak.

We have had some really heavy rain and not yet seen any water inside the fridge area. It could have something to do with the camper not sitting level or wind driving it in but I have not seen it yet.
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:11 AM   #37
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The old vent did not have a center insert that was removable. The entire outside piece was removable. The new vent has a crack around the outside where the insert sits in. The top and sides have a flange that will not allow water in. The bottom does not so that propane can escape if there is a leak.

We have had some really heavy rain and not yet seen any water inside the fridge area. It could have something to do with the camper not sitting level or wind driving it in but I have not seen it yet.
thank you for the information.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:47 PM   #38
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I just went out and checked mine today after heavy rains. Between the awning, additional profile, additional screws and foam weatherstripping around the sides, I'm dry inside.
The water heater compartment though is full of water, but it is made that way because the high pressure drain will seep occasionally. Going to try and keep rain out of the vent by adding finer metal screen to diffuse the water. I'll have it solved before Osoyoos.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:55 PM   #39
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:16 PM   #40
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The top metal louvered fridge vent, screwed in, not shown in the photos....mine has no visible caulk around any of the perimeter. Anyone know how that is sealed from the factory?
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