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Old 05-14-2022, 04:11 PM   #1
DT6
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Can you stand or sit on the roof?

There are some areas on the roof, mostly where I cannot reach the middle, that are very tough to clean with just an extension pole and attached sponge. I'm really having a hard time reaching the middle of the MaxFan cover and the AC.

Is it possible to climb on the roof of an Escape without damaging it? Or is there another trick like maybe a taller ladder?
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Old 05-14-2022, 05:07 PM   #2
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Not recommended! After 7 years of waxing my 19 Escape, I finally bought a scaffold. Definitely worth the price for being able to safely maintain my roof!
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Old 05-14-2022, 05:44 PM   #3
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If you want to clean the roof, get a 8' step ladder and a pole mounted sponge (that is what I use - I am 5'9"). Under ETI ver 1.0, Reece told me that I could "lean" on the edge of the roof but to not put any weight on the center section. I take lean as minimal weight to balance myself. Clearly do not stand or sit.

YMMV
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Old 05-14-2022, 08:25 PM   #4
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I was on the roof this Spring

I was on the roof this Spring. No choice. I needed to replace a lift mechanism for the Maxx-Air fan. I used a 2" thick of foam board to knell on and was very cautious. An extension ladder got me up there. No fun, but the advice for getting the extending brushes would be my recommendation also. It's smooth and slippery up there.
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Old 05-14-2022, 08:37 PM   #5
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I have been on the roof of my 5.0TA a few times, but all work was done with caution. No problems at all.
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Old 05-15-2022, 05:51 AM   #6
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I'd be surprised if the Escape roof were more fragile than the Casita's. I got up on my SD 17 to install a Maxx cover over the Fantastic Fan. Seemed quite solid.

What does Escape say about getting on the roof?
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Old 05-15-2022, 08:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT6 View Post
There are some areas on the roof, mostly where I cannot reach the middle, that are very tough to clean with just an extension pole and attached sponge. I'm really having a hard time reaching the middle of the MaxFan cover and the AC.

Is it possible to climb on the roof of an Escape without damaging it? Or is there another trick like maybe a taller ladder?
Hi: DT6... IMHO a 6' ladder is 5 ' to tall for me!!! My wife always holds the ladder... like Lucy holds the football. I know she'd catch me on the first bounce though!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 05-15-2022, 12:00 PM   #8
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I have been on the roof of my 5.0TA a few times, but all work was done with caution. No problems at all.
I'd add one caveat. For Gen 1 19s without a stripper pole I'd access the roof from the driver's side. There's more framing underneath.

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Old 05-15-2022, 05:53 PM   #9
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I’ve been wondering about this. I figure that sooner or later I’ll need to get up there to do some caulking or replace a MaxxFan rain hood or whatever. How about inserting 6 or 8 2x4’s between the floor and the padded ceiling? With plywoood foot “pads” and some 1/2” foam to protect the flooring, and maybe some 2” semi-rigid foam between the ceiling and some plywood weight distribution pieces to avoid creasing the ceiling foam. Cut the 2x4’s to just the correct length so they prevent deforming the roof, and position them in a distributed pattern below the portion of roof that would be bearing the added weight.
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Old 05-16-2022, 04:55 AM   #10
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When I resealed the max fan on the 17B, I laid out some carpet scraps and then 2x6 boards. That way when I leaned onto the roof, it distributed the weight.
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Old 05-16-2022, 06:44 AM   #11
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When I resealed the max fan on the 17B, I laid out some carpet scraps and then 2x6 boards. That way when I leaned onto the roof, it distributed the weight.
Hi: Doug2000... That's a great idea. Some of us have more wait to distribute than others!!! Alf
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Old 05-16-2022, 07:37 AM   #12
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Not recommended! After 7 years of waxing my 19 Escape, I finally bought a scaffold. Definitely worth the price for being able to safely maintain my roof!
Kstock11, can you point to what scaffolding you're referring to and how this makes it easier to access the roof?
Is this something that spans the width of the trailer?
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:17 AM   #13
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What does Escape say about getting on the roofs of its trailers?
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Old 05-16-2022, 11:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Great Eggstrications View Post
I’ve been wondering about this. I figure that sooner or later I’ll need to get up there to do some caulking or replace a MaxxFan rain hood or whatever. How about inserting 6 or 8 2x4’s between the floor and the padded ceiling? With plywoood foot “pads” and some 1/2” foam to protect the flooring, and maybe some 2” semi-rigid foam between the ceiling and some plywood weight distribution pieces to avoid creasing the ceiling foam. Cut the 2x4’s to just the correct length so they prevent deforming the roof, and position them in a distributed pattern below the portion of roof that would be bearing the added weight.
Quote:
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Kstock11, can you point to what scaffolding you're referring to and how this makes it easier to access the roof?
Is this something that spans the width of the trailer?
These kind of situations are overkill.

Don't forget that the trailers aren't all that wide. When kneeling at the roof edge or even standing on a ladder it's possible to reach to the center of the roof for waxing or other reasons.

The rounded roof edges are much stronger than the flat central areas. I can't think of any reason to have your body mass in the central area of the roof.

Ron
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Old 05-16-2022, 11:21 AM   #15
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You can rationalize ( it's what I do ), that nobody is tall enough to see the middle of the roof and to point out that you missed a spot when you washed or waxed the trailer.
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Old 05-16-2022, 11:59 AM   #16
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No don’t get on the roof. I use a 12 foot step ladder for my 5.
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Old 05-16-2022, 12:43 PM   #17
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Overkill

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
These kind of situations are overkill.
Ron
I agree. We're not talking eggshell thin fiberglass. If you spread the load of your weight over a large area, there's little to no risk of fiberglass injury. Keep your most weight to the edge, a piece of plywood on top of a piece of 1"-2" foam kneeling area would suffice to distribute your weight. I just used the foam board.
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Old 05-16-2022, 01:33 PM   #18
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I agree. We're not talking eggshell thin fiberglass. If you spread the load of your weight over a large area, there's little to no risk of fiberglass injury. Keep your most weight to the edge, a piece of plywood on top of a piece of 1"-2" foam kneeling area would suffice to distribute your weight. I just used the foam board.
When we needed to get up on the roof to add new bolts and nylock nuts to our AC unit I did the same thing. I had left over 2" XPS foam board from insulating the bottom of the trailer and used that to spread my weight while doing the work. On the road when the factory bolts originally came out, my wife investigated keeping her weight distributed by laying on the roof. You just don't want to get up there and walk around. You're not going to fall through the roof even doing that, but, you do risk cracking the gelcoat.
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Old 05-25-2022, 11:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Great Eggstrications View Post
I’ve been wondering about this. I figure that sooner or later I’ll need to get up there to do some caulking or replace a MaxxFan rain hood or whatever. How about inserting 6 or 8 2x4’s between the floor and the padded ceiling? With plywoood foot “pads” and some 1/2” foam to protect the flooring, and maybe some 2” semi-rigid foam between the ceiling and some plywood weight distribution pieces to avoid creasing the ceiling foam. Cut the 2x4’s to just the correct length so they prevent deforming the roof, and position them in a distributed pattern below the portion of roof that would be bearing the added weight.
That is a good idea, and something similar to what I saw recommended for outdoor winter storage in an area with heavy snowfall.
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Old 05-25-2022, 01:22 PM   #20
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Easiest thing to do is call Escape. I call them often and they are most helpful.
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