Fridge won't run on AC

[allison2@bendbroadband]

I have a similar problem. My frig will not run on AC. When I switch to 120, the inverter comes on and the DC light comes on. I checked the 120 V plug-in to the refrigerator, and it does have power. I am not sure where to look next. .
Any ideas where to go downstream from there?
There is a box which I assume is a fuse box to the frig, but the cover is very difficult to remove.

[SageRpod]

Check for a tripped breaker on your power center. If you have a surge protector, remember it takes a minute or so to do it's thing before power goes to the outlets.

[gentlewind]

Gentlewind here, we had the same problem a couple of years ago. The fix was so simple, but easy to overlook. The actual refrigerator cord itself was bad! We had replaced circuit boards, fuses, everything we could think of and it turned out to be the cord. Easy to replace too! Hope this helps.

[allison2@bendbroadband]

Thank you for the faulty power cord suggestion. That cord must be dedicated to 120v power only then. That is why the frig works on propane and DC, but not 120v, am I correct? How do you test the cord. Do I need to remove it, then do a continuity test?
Where could I buy a new one?

[allison2@bendbroadband]

I tested the power cord. It is fine. Power is getting all the way to the circuit board. I do not know how to test the circuit board. I also do not know where to go to get it repaired or where to buy a new one.
I just cannot think of anything else it could be. That is where the power is chosen. AC or DC. IF 120V is getting to it but it still wants to run on DC, that seems like the logical next step.

[SRS]

Originally Posted by allison2@bendbroadband

I tested the power cord. It is fine. Power is getting all the way to the circuit board. I do not know how to test the circuit board. I also do not know where to go to get it repaired or where to buy a new one.
I just cannot think of anything else it could be. That is where the power is chosen. AC or DC. IF 120V is getting to it but it still wants to run on DC, that seems like the logical next step.

Try Dinosaur Electronics:

https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

Their website will help you determine if they have a board and which model. Once you know the model number for the board, you can order it from Amazon or other resellers. I put one in my RM2454 and it works great.

[Viajante]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...thPOUJ2fCalpfw

Refer to pg 17 AC Mode for testing of AC selector circuit.wiring diagrams included. Test points J5,6,7, and 8 are printed on the lower control board. J10 is a ground.

Tests are done with the refrigerator on and 120 v plugged in, so be careful.

When my fridge wouldn't work on AC I used these instructions to diagnose the problem and replaced the lower board.

[allison2@bendbroadband]

I replaced the lower control panel. It did not help. I have power to the fuse, but I do not what points to check for power after that. Somebody mentioned changing the upper control panel. I assume that is the one that has the lights and buttons on top of the frig. I am reluctant to change it.
I do not know where to check to see if it is getting the proper "information" sent to it from down below.
I aam approaching that point where I take the trailer in and say "just fix it, I do not care what it costs. Here is my credit card, sigh"

[Rossue]

Those printed circuit boards are pricey & I wouldn't just throw parts at the problem. Probably a good mobile RV tech in Bend. Would rather have someone come to me than drop off my trailer for days. Good luck getting it resolved.

[allison2@bendbroadband]

I will see if we have any mobile techs available in my area. That would be better than buying and replacing every part in there just to find out it was a loose screw or a reset button hidden somewhere.

[Viajante]

Originally Posted by allison2@bendbroadband

I replaced the lower control panel. It did not help. I have power to the fuse, but I do not what points to check for power after that. Somebody mentioned changing the upper control panel. I assume that is the one that has the lights and buttons on top of the frig. I am reluctant to change it.
I do not know where to check to see if it is getting the proper "information" sent to it from down below.
I aam approaching that point where I take the trailer in and say "just fix it, I do not care what it costs. Here is my credit card, sigh"

In my response 2 posts ago I included the link to domestic technical service manual. I don’t know what model you have but the control panels a generally the same depending on whether you have a 2 or 3 way fridge. Pages 13 and 17 show test points on the control boards. There is also a trouble shooting section at the beginning that explains testing the fuses, wiring, lower board, and heating element. The test points are along the bottom of the lower control board and labeled J4 thru J10. Testing between J7 and J10 (ground) will tell you if voltage is getting to the heating element. If you have 110v there it tells you that the upper and lower boards are working and AC is selected and the fridge is trying to run on 120v.

That’s about the limit of what I can suggest. And check the connection from J10 to whatever ground screw it connects to confirm the ground is good.

[allison2@bendbroadband]

So my last attempt was to call a shop. But before I did, I put the old one back on and tested all the connections. I even looked at the upper panel to see if anything looked obvious. Then I called the shop. They said it would be 2 months before I could get in.
The guy at the shop asked me some questions about what I had tried. He said I had to have the AC on at the upper control. I told him that was the problem. It just wouldn't switch to AC no matter what I pressed. So while I was talking to him I was pressing the AUTO button and the AC button. same thing, it switched to DC, or if I hit AC it turned on the propane light.
I decided to press the AC and Auto at the same time. Suddenly it switched to AC! I cannot say for sure what I did, but whatever it was seemed like magic to me.
I think the tech I was talking to did something that was magical. Because I sure do not know what I did.
Anyway, it is working. THANKS GUYS & GALS for all your help.

[Viajante]

Originally Posted by allison2@bendbroadband

So my last attempt was to call a shop. But before I did, I put the old one back on and tested all the connections. I even looked at the upper panel to see if anything looked obvious. Then I called the shop. They said it would be 2 months before I could get in.
The guy at the shop asked me some questions about what I had tried. He said I had to have the AC on at the upper control. I told him that was the problem. It just wouldn't switch to AC no matter what I pressed. So while I was talking to him I was pressing the AUTO button and the AC button. same thing, it switched to DC, or if I hit AC it turned on the propane light.
I decided to press the AC and Auto at the same time. Suddenly it switched to AC! I cannot say for sure what I did, but whatever it was seemed like magic to me.
I think the tech I was talking to did something that was magical. Because I sure do not know what I did.
Anyway, it is working. THANKS GUYS & GALS for all your help.

I’m happy you found a solution. I hope it continues to operate on AC when you want it to.

Something to keep in mind is that when you are plugged in and it can’t find AC the fridge may default to DC. It sounds like that is happening in your case. And that is fine, it’s an advantage of a 3-way fridge. As long as the trailer is plugged in the converter will supply enough amps to run the fridge on DC without draining the battery. If the trailer is disconnected the fridge should default to propane. So, if the problem comes back you can run it on DC while you are plugged in if you want to.