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Old 06-24-2016, 01:50 PM   #1
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How to pull the toilet 17'

Just filled the water tanks and plugged everything in. A flexible plastic hose connecting to the back of the toilet was completely unplugged. Sprayed water. I shut the power off at the breaker box and then tried to press the hose (which has a soft black rubber fitting at its end) into the appropriate socket behind the toilet. But there isn't enough room to see what's going on. My fingers barely have enough room to fit between the toilet and the wall.

So I'm thinking I need to pull the toilet to get the hose plugged into the toilet properly. How is that done? Do I twist the hole toilet clockwise? Counter clockwise? And then pull up?

Or are there hidden hold-down bolts? I'll keep looking.

Might have to make this first weekend trip without water.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:25 PM   #2
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It's extraordinarily tight, especially in the 17, but it can be done without pulling the toilet. Use a small mirror so you can see what you're doing. Some folks have used a long pair of needle nose pliers or suitable tool to reach the pipe.


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Old 06-24-2016, 02:29 PM   #3
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I gave up on the mirror. It was wan't possible for me. I'm a retired builder too so I'm good with tools. There just wasn't enough room for my fat hands.

I pulled the toilet. There are two 1/2" inch hold down bolts on the bottom lip of the toilet, left and right, covered by snap off bolt covers. Removing the toilet is easy. Bolting the toilet back in place is easy too. Attaching the water supply hose properly is another story.

I see where there black plastic end of the water supply hose plugs into a matching black plastic socket on the underside of the upper edge of the toilet. But it won't stay. Slips right in.
Slips right out.

There appears to be a thin loose ring of broken plastic inside the socket. Perhaps that was a locking ring of some kind. Now broken.

I may need some new parts. Will have to go to plan B for this weekend.

Another question is "what caused this?" I had the sink faucets open when I started to fill the tank with water. But the pump was on too. Am I supposed to turn the water pump off at the breaker box while filling the main tank with water?
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:33 PM   #4
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How to pull the toilet 17'

Quote:
Originally Posted by pittendrigh View Post
A mirror! I'll try that.

You've also illustrated a good reason for installing a toilet shutoff valve - for those who are looking at their build sheet. With a shutoff valve, the trailer could still have water.


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Old 06-24-2016, 02:49 PM   #5
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A mirror! I'll try that.
Hi: pittendrigh... Make sure you work backwards in the mirror!!! Good luck. Alf
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Old 06-24-2016, 04:16 PM   #6
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Ok. Thank you everybody. This is a good friendly community.

I figured it out. The black plastic flange at the end of the clear plastic tube that feeds water into the toilet was broken. This was a winter freezing problem.

Last fall I drained the water supply tank and the gray water tank and the black water tank. And pulled the 1"
plug on the water heater. Opened all the sink valves until no more water drained out. And all the water DOES drain out of the system, if you do all of the above, with one exception.

The water supply tube to the toilet comes out of the wall and bends downward and then back up to the "water supply module" on the back of the toilet. That forms a trap that does not drain. So the water supply module still had enough water in it to freeze.

I see this a design problem. A design flaw in fact. I will soon put a petcock valve in the low part of the U-shaped water supply hose, so it will drain. This was a learning experience. The new water supply module was in stock at a local RV supply center. It cost me $36 USA dollars. And an afternoon of work.

Next time I'll know better. Soon I will fix that water supply hose to it drains properly at winterization time. So the entire water system can be reliably drained.
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Old 06-24-2016, 04:32 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by pittendrigh View Post
Ok. Thank you everybody. This is a good friendly community.

I figured it out. The black plastic flange at the end of the clear plastic tube that feeds water into the toilet was broken. This was a winter freezing problem.

Last fall I drained the water supply tank and the gray water tank and the black water tank. And pulled the 1"
plug on the water heater. Opened all the sink valves until no more water drained out. And all the water DOES drain out of the system, if you do all of the above, with one exception.

The water supply tube to the toilet comes out of the wall and bends downward and then back up to the "water supply module" on the back of the toilet. That forms a trap that does not drain. So the water supply module still had enough water in it to freeze.

I see this a design problem. A design flaw in fact. I will soon put a petcock valve in the low part of the U-shaped water supply hose, so it will drain. This was a learning experience. The new water supply module was in stock at a local RV supply center. It cost me $36 USA dollars. And an afternoon of work.

Next time I'll know better. Soon I will fix that water supply hose to it drains properly at winterization time. So the entire water system can be reliably drained.
Hi; pittendrigh... All you need to do at winterization time is get someone to hold the flush valve open till no more water comes out to evacuate the toilet supply line!!! Alf
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Old 06-24-2016, 04:45 PM   #8
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Hmmmm. OK. I'll do that too. It's fixed now. I'm ready to rock'N roll.
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:47 PM   #9
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I blow out the lines with an air compressor. Won't leave enough in the low spots to do freeze damage.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:56 PM   #10
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How to pull the toilet 17'

Something I never have to worry about, living in a place that doesn't freeze, but I'm with Charlie - blowing out the lines would insure it never happens again.


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Old 06-24-2016, 10:25 PM   #11
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We pump anti-freeze through the lines, have never blown them out. Anti-freeze covers the toilet valve also.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:10 PM   #12
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Or you could pump ice cream through the lines since propylene glycol ( the stuff in RV antifreeze ) is an ingredient used to prevent ice crystals in frozen confections.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:13 PM   #13
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Or you could pump ice cream through the lines since propylene glycol ( the stuff in RV antifreeze ) is an ingredient used to prevent ice crystals in frozen confections.
I gotta check the box of organic fudge bars I just got at Costco..............
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Old 06-25-2016, 01:14 AM   #14
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Or you could pump ice cream through the lines since propylene glycol ( the stuff in RV antifreeze ) is an ingredient used to prevent ice crystals in frozen confections.
Both propylene glycol and alcohol are used (either one, or both in combination) in plumbing antifreeze... so maybe one of these: 18 Alcoholic Ice Cream Ideas - Recipes for Ice Cream with Alcohol
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pittendrigh View Post
Ok. Thank you everybody. This is a good friendly community.

I figured it out. The black plastic flange at the end of the clear plastic tube that feeds water into the toilet was broken. This was a winter freezing problem.

Last fall I drained the water supply tank and the gray water tank and the black water tank. And pulled the 1"
plug on the water heater. Opened all the sink valves until no more water drained out. And all the water DOES drain out of the system, if you do all of the above, with one exception.

The water supply tube to the toilet comes out of the wall and bends downward and then back up to the "water supply module" on the back of the toilet. That forms a trap that does not drain. So the water supply module still had enough water in it to freeze.

I see this a design problem. A design flaw in fact. I will soon put a petcock valve in the low part of the U-shaped water supply hose, so it will drain. This was a learning experience. The new water supply module was in stock at a local RV supply center. It cost me $36 USA dollars. And an afternoon of work.

Next time I'll know better. Soon I will fix that water supply hose to it drains properly at winterization time. So the entire water system can be reliably drained.
I think that using air pressure to drive all water out of the system would have forced water from that low point. Agree it is desgin flaw, however.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:09 PM   #16
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I use the 12 volt pump to run antifreeze thru the lines then blow everything out and clear all the lines. Yeah I know I'm neurotic.
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