Issues with electrical system on 5.0 TA

[S&SDowdy]

Hi, I'm having a issue with my electrical system on my 2017 5.0 TA. When the shore line and/or truck are attached, I have power to the entire system but if I disconnect the shore line and/or truck I have no power and it doesn't reconnect to the two six volt batteries, the trailer shuts down. I was thinking it could be a fuse but they don't look blown. Any thoughts would be helpful, I'm awaiting a return call from Escape Trailers...

[cpaharley2008]

Whether they look "blown" or not I would start there and work backwards......

[Hawkeye Ed]

Get out your multimeter ($13 at Home Depot), set it to 12 volts, and start checking, first at the battery. Follow the wired from the battery to the power center, checking the voltage along the way at every connection. Probably a fuse; you can't always tell by looking at them if they're blown.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by S&SDowdy

Hi, I'm having a issue with my electrical system on my 2017 5.0 TA. When the shore line and/or truck are attached, I have power to the entire system but if I disconnect the shore line and/or truck I have no power and it doesn't reconnect to the two six volt batteries, the trailer shuts down. I was thinking it could be a fuse but they don't look blown. Any thoughts would be helpful, I'm awaiting a return call from Escape Trailers...

Just starting simple...is it possible that your battery disconnect switch got engaged? I don't know when Escape switched to the more robust style under the dinette bench with a key to operate but older trailers had a small toggle switch in the dinette area that was easily hit inadvertently.

[davidmurphy02]

Those old battery disconnect switches were kind of cheap and have been known to fail - that happened to another forum member recently. If it's on but no battery power, check it with your multimeter if you have one. If no multimeter, you can just jump the two terminals with a short piece of wire or even a screwdriver briefly with a light turned on. If doing that results in power, your switch is bad. You can temporarily bypass it until you get a replacement by just connecting both wires to the same terminal on the switch.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by S&SDowdy

When the shore line and/or truck are attached, I have power to the entire system but if I disconnect the shore line and/or truck I have no power and it doesn't reconnect to the two six volt batteries, the trailer shuts down.

Other than the battery disconnect (or storage) switch already mentioned, the batteries are never disconnected from the rest of the trailer. That is, in an Escape the batteries stay connected whether the trailer is on shore power or not, instead of disconnecting when shore power comes on and reconnecting when shore power goes off.

The storage switch is probably just off or failed.

[S&SDowdy]

Thanks all...It turned out to be a 40a fuse blown...I do appreciate the help.

[rubicon327]

Now the question is why did the fuse blow? If that 40A fuse is on the main positive wire from the batteries to the WFCO power center DC board it is likely undersized. That WFCO charger is rated for 55A DC output which it could possible approach when charging the batteries. If the gauge wire is adequate you may be able to upsize the fuse to prevent nuisance tripping. I'm not sure what size Escape is wiring with these days but that main DC wiring really should be a minimum of 6AWG.

[rjreeves]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

Those old battery disconnect switches were kind of cheap and have been known to fail .

Mine has already failed and been replaced. Trailer delivered September 2019.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rjreeves

Mine has already failed and been replaced. Trailer delivered September 2019.

If anyone is looking for a nice replacement switch for the old toggle I recommend this:https://powerwerx.com/panelhdsw-heavy-duty-switch

Rated for 100A continuous and is much smaller than the Blue Sea marine battery switches that you typically see. Something with a small form factor looks better IMO if it is installed in the dinette seat face.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Now the question is why did the fuse blow? If that 40A fuse is on the main positive wire from the batteries to the WFCO power center DC board it is likely undersized. That WFCO charger is rated for 55A DC output which it could possible approach when charging the batteries. If the gauge wire is adequate you may be able to upsize the fuse to prevent nuisance tripping. I'm not sure what size Escape is wiring with these days but that main DC wiring really should be a minimum of 6AWG.

Funny you should ask. Red Dog had his 40 amp fuse blow a few years back with no 120v connected so the converter couldn't have done it. After some discussion and wire tracing, we learned that if the 7-pin connector gets wet and shorts that it would pop the 40 amp. It's a direct run from the 7-pin to the 40 amp fuse. Has the OP been in any rain lately?

Oh, Dave is correct though - the converter can pop it too. Not a bad idea to upgrade the wire /fuse combo. But I warn you that fixing the wiring problems on an Escape is like eating popcorn - it's hard to stop once you get started.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

If anyone is looking for a nice replacement switch for the old toggle I recommend this:https://powerwerx.com/panelhdsw-heavy-duty-switch

Rated for 100A continuous and is much smaller than the Blue Sea marine battery switches that you typically see. Something with a small form factor looks better IMO if it is installed in the dinette seat face.

Thanks for this reco, I've been shopping around for one and I like this one. They also have the same one but with a removeable knob which is a neat feature...ordering it now!
https://powerwerx.com/panelhdswk-hea...removable-knob