Table base

[Crows Nest]

I’m thinking of installing a flush/recessed table mount in front dinette of 21NE. I’ll have to cut a 2.25” diameter hole in the floor. The mount extends about 1.5” down from top of floor. Am I going to cut into anything that I shouldn’t?

[Ron in BC]

Always best to get down and verify for yourself. Eyeball a reference point and measure.

There are transverse frame members. You have to confirm one isn't where you want to drill your hole.

Ron

[sherminator]

I question whether the floor is much more than1.5" thick. I know there is plywood sealed in the fiberglass floor, but I don't the thickness of the plywood nor the layers of glass above and below. You should really consult ETI.

[brroberts]

If you have a raised dinnette, and no supports where you want to drill, you are probably okay. If the dinette is not raised it’s probably a half inch to fiberglass and roughly 3/16’s through the fiberglass. I’d personally want more than 11/16ths of an inch for mounting. You may also have framing, wiring, and tanks under there. I don’t have a 21, so I don’t know for sure.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Crows Nest

I’m thinking of installing a flush/recessed table mount in front dinette of 21NE. I’ll have to cut a 2.25” diameter hole in the floor. The mount extends about 1.5” down from top of floor. Am I going to cut into anything that I shouldn’t?

Absent a raised section inside your trailer, that type of cast aluminum cup post mount will extend slightly through the shell. It's less than 1-1/2" thick from the inside top of the vinyl finish floor to outside bottom of the shell; I know this from drilling through the floor for bolts to install an under-trailer spare tire mount (those bolts being 'hidden' in the steps to the loft in my 5.0).

ETI does not route anything under the plywood subfloor when they bed it in resin to the bottom / floor of the shell. You'll encounter nothing (electical, etc) between the inside vinyl finish floor and the outside of the fiberglass shell. You will need to check carefully to ensure you don't hit anything below the shell (frame crossmember, tank. propane line / bracket, etc).

Tip: Save the 'plug' from your holesaw cutout; it'll be useful if you ever want to 'restore' the hole through your trailer floor. If you use a short pilot-bit in your holesaw and remove it before you hit the fiberglass layer, the resulting 'plug' won't have a center hole to patch.

(I wish I'd had those 'plugs' from the factory-installed 'cast aluminum cup flush post mounts' in my Casita trailer; it'd have simplified 'restoration' when I removed them. They were not a favorite table mounting system of mine. YMMV.)

[Ron in BC]

I'm not too worried about the floor thickness as it's adequate for all the other types of table bases that are screwed to it. OK, I used threaded inserts for my Springfield.

I'm reasonably sure that the frame would be the same on the both the 21C and the 21NE.

As you can see, there's a transverse frame that's likely the only concern. The location is easy to see from the exterior because the stabilizer is attached to it. So use that as a reference point to find the one location on the floor that you can't drill through.

The black material is rigid foam that I added and the strapping is there as a mechanical backup if the adhesive failed. (in case you were wondering)

Ron

[elongest]

You might want to look at the Sequoia table mount system. No need to drill a big hole, mounts very close to the floor and it holds the table very steady. The system was designed for slide outs on larger trailers.
https://www.amazon.com/Manufacturers...e17e03685&th=1

[Crows Nest]

I will check out the Sequoia mount. For now we’re installing the stock bases and legs and will see how it goes (a prior thread was about our disappointment with Lagun table). Shanks everyone for the input.