Tape lights

[Crows Nest]

I want to install indirect lighting under all of the cabinets. I can pull power from the existing lights because I will remove them. Can I hardwire 12v tape lights? They seem to typically connect to line voltage with a transformer.

[Jim Bennett]

You can wire them into any 12V line in the trailer. If it is switched that is even better. Dimming if desired would require a dimmer switch.

[HABBERDABBER]

I added interior LED "tape lights" and tapped into nearby 12V. No transformer needed as the lights were 12VDC to start. I used magnetic switches for activation. I'm looking to do some additional LED tape light, maybe near the sink or vent. In my case, getting access to the 12V lines was sketchy, as ETI didn't provide much slack in the wire runs, but it was doable.

All this is available on Amazon or other sites.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXWL3X9...m?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/GuoTonG-Flexi...39&sr=8-6&th=1

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

In my case, getting access to the 12V lines was sketchy, as ETI didn't provide much slack in the wire runs, but it was doable.

Just a note, my favorite “new” electrical device is the Wago lever connector. They are great for extending wires or for joining stranded wire to solid wire. They are approved for 12 vdc or 120 vac applications, but a junction box is required by electrical code for 120 vac connections. I use silicon tape which sticks to itself around the Wago when I have extended 12 vdc lines.

I have purchased Wago connectors from Amazon and Home Depot.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Just a note, my favorite “new” electrical device is the Wago lever connector. They are great for extending wires or for joining stranded wire to solid wire. They are approved for 12 vdc or 120 vac applications, but a junction box is required by electrical code for 120 vac connections. I use silicon tape which sticks to itself around the Wago when I have extended 12 vdc lines.

I have purchased Wago connectors from Amazon and Home Depot.

Pretty much every 120V wire connection in my home uses Wago connectors, with the exception of a few large wire connections. The last house too. Not only are the connections quicker to make, taking a wire out to isolate a line for some reason is really nice too. Using tape is not a recommendation and I never did.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Crows Nest

I want to install indirect lighting under all of the cabinets. I can pull power from the existing lights because I will remove them. Can I hardwire 12v tape lights? They seem to typically connect to line voltage with a transformer.

It depends on the design of the tape lights. The ones designed for 12V usually have the individual LEDs in groups of 3. If you see a set of solder pads every 3 LEDs, in most cases you can cut the tape between groups & solder wires to the pads. I've done that for the ones in my cabinets.

While I had Escape add drops to each cabinet, if there is a 12V circuit already in the cabinet there is no reason you can't use it. I'd add a 1 amp fuse to the strip wiring since it is usually far lighter than the #14 or #16 that Escape uses for their 15 amp fused circuit.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Pretty much every 120V wire connection in my home uses Wago connectors, with the exception of a few large wire connections. The last house too. Not only are the connections quicker to make, taking a wire out to isolate a line for some reason is really nice too. Using tape is not a recommendation and I never did.

Jim, I do not use tape on any Wago connectors used in new wiring in the house. My house (constructed in 2004) is wired with the older push-in Wago connectors which make it difficult to disconnect a wire even though it can be done with enough force. I only use silicon tape on the lever Wago connectors in the trailer out of caution due to potential vibration. I am probably over cautious but silicon tape is easily removed (cut off) and does not leave a sticky mess.

[Centex]

When needing to 'tap' or 'extend' 12VDC wires, I'm a big fan of the PosiTap system of connectors.

Among the features I find attractive is that no cutting or stripping of the wire to be tapped or extended is required, one only needs enough 'slack' to get ~1/8" separation from adjacent wires or obstacles, and no tool access is required which makes things very easy in confined spaces.

Unlike 'scotch-lock' type taps, PosiTaps present no risk of cutting strands in the tapped wire and they are very easily removed / relocated leaving only a pinhole in the insulation which is easily re-sealed with a tiny dab of liquid insulation if desired.

Just an alternative to WAGO perhaps of interest for your consideration.

[Sean Murry]

We installed LED tape lights in the cabinets themselves. With the new translucent doors on the overhead cabinets, it offers beautiful ambient light with the light on and the door closed. Also has the advantage of finding things in the overhead cabinets

[SeldomSeen]

We added light strips to the back of the valance on the front, rear, and kitchen window. We ...well not really me at all...stiched the light strips to the fabric on the back of the valance. On the rear window we had to move the valance out a little to clear the window shades. We rarely turn on the stock overhead lights unless we are cooking. The indirect light from the back of the valance, with a dimmer remote is perfect.



I took the power from the nearby stock under cabinet light, and just dropped the receiver for the remote in that light. It was a little tricky to route the wire from the side window to the rear but we really like them. The wires run from the stock light, through the false bottom of the cabinets to a corner where we drilled a hole to make the connection. Invisible unless you are laying underneath the valance looking for it. Rear window was a little more involved.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Centex

When needing to 'tap' or 'extend' 12VDC wires, I'm a big fan of the PosiTap system of connectors.

Among the features I find attractive is that no cutting or stripping of the wire to be tapped or extended is required, one only needs enough 'slack' to get ~1/8" separation from adjacent wires or obstacles, and no tool access is required which makes things very easy in confined spaces.

Unlike 'scotch-lock' type taps, PosiTaps present no risk of cutting strands in the tapped wire and they are very easily removed / relocated leaving only a pinhole in the insulation which is easily re-sealed with a tiny dab of liquid insulation if desired.

Just an alternative to WAGO perhaps of interest for your consideration.

I agree Alan. I have a small stock of PosiTaps in my “inventory.” But I do prefer the end to end Wago connectors for extending wires as the finished connection is a straight wire with a small bulge like a butt crimp provides but with the ability to disconnect if necessary. For tapping into an existing line, I prefer the PosiTaps. I believe knowledge of both of these types of connectors is beneficial to all Escape and SOB owners.