Two water questions

[pittendrigh]

2019 or so 21 footer? I'm nut sure the year. Nice easy to haul outfit.

1)
My first question sounds familiar but I could not find it in the forum.
Sometimes my water pump runs for a bit and then shuts off as expected--presumably when the water pressure reaches a cerain level.

Other times the pump seems to run on forever. For the last two days I've resorted to turning the pump off between each use. What would be a likely cause for a water pump that runs for ever?

2) We just got back from a three nights at an RV park with full hookups. The hot water heater ran no matter what. There is a lighted toggle switch for the water heater, above the stove, that lights up in the on position and goes dim in the off position. The water got hot in both switch positions so there was no way to turn it off, even if the gas bottles were cranked off it still got hot with 110 coming in. I did have the sink faucet replaced before this last trip. Could that guy have crossed some wiring? How else could this be happening.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

2) We just got back from a three nights at an RV park with full hookups. The hot water heater ran no matter what. There is a lighted toggle switch for the water heater, above the stove, that lights up in the on position and goes dim in the off position. The water got hot in both switch positions so there was no way to turn it off, even if the gas bottles were cranked off it still got hot with 110 coming in. I did have the sink faucet replaced before this last trip. Could that guy have crossed some wiring? How else could this be happening.

The interior switch you mention is for operating the water heater in propane-mode only. You likely have a water heater which is also able to operate in 120VAC electric-heating mode (aka a 'two-way' water heater, a common option offered by ETI beyond the standard propane-only water heater).

Open the exterior hatch to your water heater and you'll likely see a toggle-switch controlling power to a 120VAC heating element in the water heater.

When that switch is "On" and you are plugged into shore-power, the water will be heated by the 120VAC element regardless of the interior propane-ignitor switch setting.

CAUTION - you will want to ensure the switch in the exterior compartment is OFF except when you know the water heater tank is full of water. If you inadvertently leave it On, empty the tank for whatever reason (e.g. use-up all of your water supply), and then plug into shore-power you will destroy the heating element (the electric heating element must be submerged in water when On to prevent damage).

Just FYI, there are kits consisting of a switch and relay which allow relocation of the 120VAC heating element control to a convenient location inside the trailer (that's a hard-wired switch, not a 'wireless' installation).

EDIT - added pic:

[pittendrigh]

Cool. Thank you (flip a switch at the heater, behind the cover).

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

2019 or so 21 footer? I'm nut sure the year. Nice easy to haul outfit.

1)
My first question sounds familiar but I could not find it in the forum.
Sometimes my water pump runs for a bit and then shuts off as expected--presumably when the water pressure reaches a cerain level.

Other times the pump seems to run on forever. For the last two days I've resorted to turning the pump off between each use. What would be a likely cause for a water pump that runs for ever?

2) We just got back from a three nights at an RV park with full hookups. The hot water heater ran no matter what. There is a lighted toggle switch for the water heater, above the stove, that lights up in the on position and goes dim in the off position. The water got hot in both switch positions so there was no way to turn it off, even if the gas bottles were cranked off it still got hot with 110 coming in. I did have the sink faucet replaced before this last trip. Could that guy have crossed some wiring? How else could this be happening.

There is an allen headed adjustment screw on the pump that can be used to fix the pump running between uses. Check

This Escape video

for making the adjustment.

As to the the hot water, the switch & indicator light are for propane operation of the water heater. When you turn it on, the lamp should light, then go out when the propane ignites.

If you have the electric option, there is no switch for it other than on the outside under the cover of the water heater. I would always leave that switch on. It is of questionable quality, and a bear to replace. If you are plugged into a pedestal, the electric element will come on & heat the water. If you don't want hot water, or are connected to a low amperage site, you can shut off the appropriate circuit breaker or install a switch in series with the breaker connection to the hot wire going to the water heater.

Again, you could use the outside switch (it is a rocker switch on the lower left side of face inside the outer cover) but I don't suggest using it. It is far easier to replace a worn out breaker than the rocker switch, and I doubt you will wear out the breaker.

[pittendrigh]

I asked two questions and almost immediately got two knowledgeable answers.
Thank you all. I think I have what I need.

[tdf-texas]

Your trailer has the Suburban SW6DE installed which is both propane and electric. Suburban also sells the SW6DEL that is the same hot water heater but with an additional relay installed to allow switching the 120V element off and on from remote.

Here is a thread that discusses converting the SW6DE to a SW6DEL and replacing the existing tank monitor with a panel that includes a switch to turn on/off the 120v hot water heater from inside the trailer.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...itch-8535.html