Water heater not working

[Brookfielder]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Nice work getting it going again! The electrode is a 2 prong design to also sense flame. My guess is similar to yours. The old electrode was fine but you had a bad thermocouple so it failed to tell the board you had flame.

Thanks! It’s a relief.
As I understand from a previous post, the electrode itself is the thermocouple. Unlike the pilot in the oven, or like the one in our gas fireplace, there isn’t a separate item that functions as a thermocouple. Current between the rods of the electrode passes through the flame better than it does through air, and the module needs to see a certain return. Little or no return in air, sufficient return in flame (ionized was the term).
I love learning how this stuff works so I can figure it out in the future.

[edlynnrich]

Excellent timing for me on your post Brett. I just turned on the water heater in preparation for tonight’s dishes and the ignition started acting up. The heater would light, fault light cuts off, flame goes out, fault light on heater reignites but by the third try the heater stayed lit. I had the same trouble this morning but I had to reset the switch after 3 attempts to light. The heater worked fine yesterday. I now have a good troubleshooting guide. Thank you

Ed
Escape Reality

[Brookfielder]

On my next outing in the first week of October the water heater only worked for a few days then it went back to the same fail state as before.
I ordered up the ignitor board from Dinosaur electronics, and today I’m in the trailer to install it.
I read that it is different but didn’t absorb what the difference was. Now I see that it is a larger board in every direction and the ignitor wire connects differently form the factory part.
The original connection is a spade connector.
The Dinosaur connects similar to a spark plug boot.
Gonna have to find a different connector or a different ignitor wire.
Also, the original cover won’t fit. Will search this forum to see if there is a ready-made solution.

[Brookfielder]

Originally Posted by Brookfielder

On my next outing in the first week of October the water heater only worked for a few days then it went back to the same fail state as before.
I ordered up the ignitor board from Dinosaur electronics, and today I’m in the trailer to install it.
I read that it is different but didn’t absorb what the difference was. Now I see that it is a larger board in every direction and the ignitor wire connects differently form the factory part.
The original connection is a spade connector.
The Dinosaur connects similar to a spark plug boot.
Gonna have to find a different connector or a different ignitor wire.
Also, the original cover won’t fit. Will search this forum to see if there is a ready-made solution.

I see that I am to blame for my problem.
I ordered on Amazon. I needed part number UIB S.
Somehow I chose UIB S POST. The photo in the listing I chose was of the UIB S, but the part number was not what I needed.
Hoping they accept a return, ordering the correct part.
Sometimes when giving my opinion to someone, and I’m trying to instill confidence I’ll say, “I’ve been wrong twice before, but I’m pretty sure about this.”
Now I’m going to have to say I’ve been wrong three times. Dang.

[Brookfielder]

I wonder if anyone who has already done this can offer guidance regarding the connection to the new board?
The terminology between manufacturers doesn’t match. I saw warnings that connectors amy need to be re-pinned, and it appears to be true.
Power and NC seem to be common between the two.
V1 could be Valve?
Test, Sense, and Ground are good questions.

[Brookfielder]

Back sides

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brookfielder

I wonder if anyone who has already done this can offer guidance regarding the connection to the new board?
The terminology between manufacturers doesn’t match. I saw warnings that connectors amy need to be re-pinned, and it appears to be true.
Power and NC seem to be common between the two.
V1 could be Valve?
Test, Sense, and Ground are good questions.
Attachment 66185

I haven’t replaced one myself but have researched these boards. It should be plug and play with the Dinosaur UIB-S and Suburban water heater

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ib2RaXekG5Y

The only thing you should need to do is clip a resistor on the board for instant fire. Instructions should have been included.

[Brookfielder]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I haven’t replaced one myself but have researched these boards. It should be plug and play with the Dinosaur UIB-S and Suburban water heater

The only thing you should need to do is clip a resistor on the board for instant fire. Instructions should have been included.

Thank you for your insight. I agree with you.
I was wondering about the instant fire option. I couldn't say whether this water heater is instant fire or not.

[MVA]

Dave,

I have fortunately not had to replace my furnace nor my hot water heater boards (yet). Why would I want to have, and what is "instant fire"?

thanks

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by MVA

Dave,

I have fortunately not had to replace my furnace nor my hot water heater boards (yet). Why would I want to have, and what is "instant fire"?

thanks

I’m no expert but it appears that you want instant-fire for water heaters and refrigerators. Found online: “These delayed 3-try ignitor boards with 20 Second purge cycles and LOCAL flame sense also incorporate an option jumper. Removal of the jumper, for water heater and refrigerator use only, converts the board to instant fire with one Minute purge cycle between the three ignition tries.”
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/I...UIB_S_inst.pdf

[MVA]

Thanks Dave for finding this application sheet.