water pump pulsing/stuttering and burner ignition issue - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 06-14-2020, 04:59 PM   #1
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water pump pulsing/stuttering and burner ignition issue

Hi there, can anybody help me out with 2 issues from my trailer?
Water pump stuttering/pulsing every a few seconds while not using. it works well on using on all faucets. No leaking;
Propane burners and fridge failed to ignite, I could hear the "ticking" but no sparks. The propane supply is ok because I can light the burners on with lighter.
Thank you very much.☺️
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:19 PM   #2
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Is the trailer plugged into 120VAC? if not then what's the 12vdc reading? What year is your trailer?
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Old 06-14-2020, 11:00 PM   #3
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Is the trailer plugged into 120VAC? if not then what's the 12vdc reading? What year is your trailer?
Thank you for reply.
It is on 120V, 2019 17B
The propane problem is fixed but water pump still pulses. I read a thread before someone mentioned he experienced exactly same problem,,,,
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Old 06-15-2020, 08:17 AM   #4
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Thank you for reply.
It is on 120V, 2019 17B
The propane problem is fixed but water pump still pulses. I read a thread before someone mentioned he experienced exactly same problem,,,,
You may have a small leak otherwise check out this video from ETI -
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Old 06-15-2020, 06:42 PM   #5
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Thank you Ronn, I guess I have a small leak behind toilet, a trace of water on the floor at the back base of toilet, almost no chance to do anything cos the space is too small there.
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Old 06-15-2020, 10:13 PM   #6
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Thank you Ronn, I guess I have a small leak behind toilet, a trace of water on the floor at the back base of toilet, almost no chance to do anything cos the space is too small there.
Do you have a toilet shutoff valve? If so, you can isolate the toilet and determine right away that you’ve identified the problem because the pump should go back to behaving normal.
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Old 06-16-2020, 09:52 PM   #7
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Yes, I found the leaking is from the connector between toilet and supply line, lowering down the pressure to cause the stuttering. likely only need tight up the connector. Thank you rubcon327 and Ronn. My supply line has valve already. So here comes another problem, the space behind toilet is too small, any suggestion how to tight up that connector?
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:04 AM   #8
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Yes, I found the leaking is from the connector between toilet and supply line, lowering down the pressure to cause the stuttering. likely only need tight up the connector. Thank you rubcon327 and Ronn. My supply line has valve already. So here comes another problem, the space behind toilet is too small, any suggestion how to tight up that connector?
I had a leak on the original semi-flexible metal supply line to the toilet. (My fault as I kinked the line when I was fishing some wire behind the bath and pulled hard when it got hung up.) Easiest thing to do for repair was to remove the toilet. It wasn’t very hard as I recall. It is lightweight plastic. Tightened down a stainless braided hose onto the toilet and fed it through the wall as I was reinstalling. Haven’t had an issue since.

I used something like this. I forget what length but yours is likely different anyhow.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-B...000BPEPCS?th=1

You want to be certain that the water valve on the toilet didn’t crack. It can if not properly winterized. Here is the best thing I could find that shows the valve and how to replace if necessary.
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...ter-Module.pdf
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:16 AM   #9
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I had a leak at the 90 degree pex fitting for the toilet. The crimp ring was not quite tight enough. I rented the crimp tool a Menard's but had to remove the toilet to get the tool in the cramped space. I just tightened the existing ring and it seemed to work.

Removing the toilet is pretty easy.
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Old 06-17-2020, 06:30 PM   #10
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Thank you robicon327 and rbranderstein, you guys are awesome! One more question, how did you remove the toilet, just pull it? I notice there is no screw on floor.
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:18 PM   #11
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Thank you robicon327 and rbranderstein, you guys are awesome! One more question, how did you remove the toilet, just pull it? I notice there is no screw on floor.
There are two plastic bolt caps that need to be popped off down by the floor. This will expose the closet bolts. The nuts need to be removed on each side. Then just break the toilet free. Be careful not to damage the closet flange seal or you will need to replace it before reinstalling. It seals the toilet to the tank.
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Old 06-18-2020, 06:15 PM   #12
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There are two plastic bolt caps that need to be popped off down by the floor. This will expose the closet bolts. The nuts need to be removed on each side. Then just break the toilet free. Be careful not to damage the closet flange seal or you will need to replace it before reinstalling. It seals the toilet to the tank.
Thank you agian
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