Attaching fittings - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-16-2015, 01:24 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Chris R View Post
You are right, the ones on top are not seen and neither are parts in the bilge of a boat, but the boat ones are alway neat. What prompted the question was the instructions for adding the brackets to the solar panel. Basically install dry and cover with caulking. I don't see why this method of installation is good practice. I think appling the caulk during the install results in better waterproof performance over time.
When I looked at the blobs on the roof I was disappointed .. Again .. With the fast and sloppy construction I am finding throughout my trailer. I hoped there might be some sealant underneath?

Out of sight is out of mind like the plumbing vent behind the wall with no stinky air or waste water control etc?
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Old 08-16-2015, 04:42 PM   #12
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Sounds like a neat , reliable way to install brackets . Some of the installs for solar truly are a mess and I would question how waterproof they are . I also like Ron's suggestion of the rubber gaskets . I think that might work . I just fixed small hole in copper pipe with a great stainless and brass bracket with the rubber gasket cinched down no leak . Didn't have to cut pipe or solder . Great invention . You fellows working on boats really know what you are talking about . Pat
For those interested something new for me at plumbing supply not Home Depot or lowe's . Ron I first used a piece of rubber and a gates clamp for over night . This one is stainless and brass with neoprene in center . pipe must be in good condition though , Copper wasn't installed right that's why I hit it . It was right up against drywall , not in center wood brace . So called plumber fix after 1994 Earthquake .
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Old 08-16-2015, 05:43 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
When I looked at the blobs on the roof I was disappointed .. Again .. With the fast and sloppy construction I am finding throughout my trailer. I hoped there might be some sealant underneath?

Out of sight is out of mind like the plumbing vent behind the wall with no stinky air or waste water control etc?
OH NO ! Speaking your mind and stating the obvious could result in you being also being labeled as a costumer that is not wanted.
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:30 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by StarvingHyena View Post
Sorry .... Still not right. Apply caulking to underside of fitting, some down the bolt hole ... move wife's brand new fur coat from underneath, ... some on bolt threads, ... insert bolt and barely tighten, .... clean up the oose, and wait for caulk to cure .... days if necessary. You want the caulk to be between 1/16" and 1/8" thick. After curing then, then tighten. You will have made a perfect gasket and it has the best chance to be and stay waterproof.


Caulking on top of the fitting? NO!
I agree that's the process that works really well. The only thing I'm careful not to do when compressing the semi cured sealant is turn the bolt and disturb the sealant. Maybe it's overkill but I like to hold the bolt or fitting firmly in position and only turn the nut.

I hope anyone installing their brackets or any other piece of hardware whose fittings penetrate the skin will consider bedding them in sealant.

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Old 08-16-2015, 06:47 PM   #15
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OH NO ! Speaking your mind and stating the obvious could result in you being also being labeled as a costumer that is not wanted.



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Old 08-16-2015, 06:56 PM   #16
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Is the misspelling of "customer" intentional?
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:00 PM   #17
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Is the misspelling of "customer" intentional?
It must be the more decorative use of the word.
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