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11-06-2015, 10:59 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: N/A, Indiana
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 976
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Our 2013 escape 19 has a light coat of paint on bare steel. Plenty of paint runs on the frame. We have rarely towed on gravel roads and are frequently dealing with rust. Yes, I am Sure it is just another maintenance issue!
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11-06-2015, 12:23 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal
. Yes, I am Sure it is just another maintenance issue!
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Unless they have gone to powder coated frames it is a maintenance issue. If a powder coated frame was an option I'd have gladly paid extra for it because I've seen how durable it is. It's quite a contrast on a year old trailer that looks pristine "above" and awful below. Oh well, if I don't do any more mods underneath I won't see it.
Ron
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11-06-2015, 12:41 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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There must be different grades of powder coat. I've had 'powder coated' lawn furniture that is long, long gone.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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11-06-2015, 01:13 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 17A
Posts: 2,348
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Our 17A was mfd. in August/September, 2015. It is Not powdered coated.
The frame was spray-painted black, and around the framing at the rear I've cleaned and repainted a few small areas with rust starting.
Powder-coating is a very effective barrier. It's usually a durable polyester coating, but is only a good as the preparation of the under-lying metal surfaces.
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11-06-2015, 01:17 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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I've got a Hidden Hitch on my RAV4. It was coated with a plastic material. Looked great when new, but the rust traveled under this 'paint' and chunks of it could be peeled away.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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11-06-2015, 01:19 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,873
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I've never powder coated anything so I don't know about different grades of it. But there's very likely various grades in the amount of material applied and I'd think that typical lawn furniture would be at the low end of the spectrum.
If I'm welding something that's been painted very often the paint's so thin that a simple wipe with sandpaper is enough to get to bare metal. If it's powder coated, out comes the grinder.
Ron
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11-06-2015, 03:55 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Another reason to get the foam package, it covers just bout 90% of the exposed frame.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-06-2015, 04:03 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Galesville, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2017 21 "Blue II" & 2017 Highlander XLE (previously 2010 17B "Blue" & 2008 Tacoma)
Posts: 4,234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Another reason to get the foam package, it covers just bout 90% of the exposed frame.
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Jim - the only concern I would have would be if the foam got damaged and allowed water to get in from road spray ,especially salty stuff, and then get trapped against the frame. When I used to do body work (on the rusty hulks that were all I could afford in my youth), I'd often find the worst rust in places where mud or some such had plugged up drain holes and kept water in. Sometimes I'd start working on a rocker panel and as I cut thru rust spots water would drain out of them.
Click and Clack (I loved those guys humor) used to highly recommend against a dealer applied "rust proofing" or undercoating as it often would plug up drain holes and start rusting from the inside
It could be nothing - just a thought I had.
__________________
Eric (and Mary who is in no way responsible for anything stupid I post)
"Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." George Bernard Shaw
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11-06-2015, 04:18 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I believe Reace has drain holes in the frames in addition to the fiberglass.....but some members have stated they are sealed, like vacuum when being welded?? I do not not know, but I drilled a couple in my rear bumper just in case, not a drop.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-06-2015, 04:19 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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There is a negative/positive ionization system available for metal frames, but like others have said, our use of the trailer will have long diminished to where the frame becomes corroded.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-06-2015, 04:29 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Another reason to get the foam package, it covers just bout 90% of the exposed frame.
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Isn't the foam just on the inside of the frame, not the bottom or outside? I have actually never seen it before, except in a couple shared photos.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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11-06-2015, 04:44 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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The foam totally encapsulates the bottom of the trailer from side to side front to rear, all the frame is covered above the axles.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-06-2015, 05:05 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
The foam totally encapsulates the bottom of the trailer from side to side front to rear, all the frame is covered above the axles.
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So, it must go to the fibreglass wells then, For some reason I was thinking it was just between the frame. Ya learn sumpin' new every day.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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11-06-2015, 06:01 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer
When I used to do body work (on the rusty hulks that were all I could afford in my youth), .
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Me too, probably a lot of us started out with 100 buck beaters. But how times change, look at what the Sweet 16's are driving to school, no beaters for them. Bimmers, Range Rovers and Audi's. Of course I guess if they're last years models they'd feel hard done by.
Hard to tell, long term, if the foam detaches enough to allow water in. Certainly water between drop in bed liners made for a few rusty p/u boxes. I had the same concern about spray on bed liners. But I'm had them in two trucks for years without any indication of problems.
Ron
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11-06-2015, 07:07 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
The foam totally encapsulates the bottom of the trailer from side to side front to rear, all the frame is covered above the axles.
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My 5.0TA is more like Jim B mentions, the foam is between the frame members. I can see the outer side and bottom of the frame. The foam is about an inch up from the bottom of the frame.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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11-07-2015, 11:23 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo
I was referring to the Line-X suggestion.
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Ah, not the galvanizing - the order of posts without proper threading causes confusion sometimes. I agree - Line-X seems expensive for what it does. When I've seen it (or a similar product) used anywhere other than inside a pickup truck box it seems to be peeling at the corners, anyway.
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11-07-2015, 11:36 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfandrews
Powder-coating is a very effective barrier. It's usually a durable polyester coating, but is only a good as the preparation of the under-lying metal surfaces.
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Yes - preparation and coating thickness are important and they vary.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo
I've got a Hidden Hitch on my RAV4. It was coated with a plastic material. Looked great when new, but the rust traveled under this 'paint' and chunks of it could be peeled away.
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Same thing on my Toyota OEM (built by Cequent) hitch receiver: chips started by gravel lead to peeling. The same thing would happen on parts of a trailer frame, but I think most of the frame would be well-protected by powder coat or another tough coating.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer
Click and Clack (I loved those guys humor) used to highly recommend against a dealer applied "rust proofing" or undercoating as it often would plug up drain holes and start rusting from the inside.
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I agree. We have a Honda with rear quarters essentially destroyed by the first owner who had sticky crap sprayed all over the bottom... which also makes it miserable to work on some parts, such as the fuel filter which was entirely coated.
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