Winterizing 17b (2014) by-pass valves - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-06-2016, 06:30 PM   #1
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Winterizing 17b (2014) by-pass valves

I'm hoping to confirm that I am turning the correct by-pass valves. My owner's manual tells me to "turn water heater by-pass valve to by-pass position. Note the singular use when referring to the by-pass valve.

However, Reace's email instructions (both 2009 and the updated 2013 version) mention this 2.) Turn the 2 water heater bypass valves to the ‘bypass’ position. (The valves are located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)

I've spent some time under our 17b's bed and can see two valves and I have shut both of them off.

I'm hoping mechanically minded Forum Members can advise me. I'm assuming that my owner's manual mentioning only one by-pass valve was an oversight which has since been corrected.

I've attached pictures which I hope may help explain what I am talking about.

thanks Larry
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File Type: jpg IMG_2760.jpg (214.7 KB, 200 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2761.jpg (194.2 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2764.jpg (171.1 KB, 29 views)
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:52 PM   #2
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Here is the diagram from a 2014 Escape manual.
One at the top and one at the bottom.
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File Type: jpg bypass.JPG (146.5 KB, 23 views)
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:09 PM   #3
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Hmmmm.... thanks for posting.

I see the pic now. On page 53. The winterize section is on pages 54/55. I didn't see the pic before going under the bed. I will dive down again to check the tank and look at our options list. The Manual index shows the by-pass kit as an option which I don't think we went for.

I plan to try using my son-in-laws air compressor, I'm hoping using air not having the by-pass kit installed won't make much difference to winterizing
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:12 PM   #4
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I didn't order hot water bypass. It's just there in mine ( 2008 ).
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:45 PM   #5
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thanks Glenn I have both valves in mine also. now I'm set to continue winterizing.
I've turned that other valve back to its original position (i think it runs to the water pump.)

last weekend I was at Chehalis River Campground for one last get-a-way. Now its time to tuck the Escape away for the winter

thanks again for your help
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File Type: jpg DSC_0088.jpg (306.5 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0045.jpg (325.6 KB, 36 views)
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:54 PM   #6
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I believe all the Escape have the hot water bypass as standard. The E-Z winterization is an option. The bypass allows one to by pass the entire hot water heater when pumping antifreeze through the system or using air to clean the lines of liquids. The water heater, once bypassed is drained by removing the anode.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:14 PM   #7
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It should be mentioned that those who have the EZ winterizing have a third valve to turn.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryandLiz View Post
thanks Glenn I have both valves in mine also. now I'm set to continue winterizing.
I've turned that other valve back to its original position (i think it runs to the water pump.)

last weekend I was at Chehalis River Campground for one last get-a-way. Now its time to tuck the Escape away for the winter

thanks again for your help
Your Escape looks gorgeous and so does the place. What a nice place to be.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:18 PM   #9
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Water Heater

After bypassing the water heater I flip the pressure relief valve up and then remove the anode with a deepwell socket. The water comes out pretty quickly and will get you wet if you're. In the way. As I observe the water coming out I also see lime slag and gritty white stuff in the water. When the water quits coming out I use the hose to flush out the heater a couple more times till the water runs clear. I make sure the anode threads dont have any grit in them. I dry the anode with a paper towel and store it in front of the anode hole. I flip the pressure relief valve back to closed to take the pressure of the spring. Then I close it up. Took me a lot longer to type this than to do it.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:34 PM   #10
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Keep a pocketful of loonies and toonies, or slugs so you can fill up the deep socket to the point where it helps secure the anode nut. Makes it much easier to get the threads started if you can apply a little pressure to the anode nut.
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