Winterizing 17b (2014) by-pass valves - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-06-2016, 06:30 PM   #1
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Winterizing 17b (2014) by-pass valves

I'm hoping to confirm that I am turning the correct by-pass valves. My owner's manual tells me to "turn water heater by-pass valve to by-pass position. Note the singular use when referring to the by-pass valve.

However, Reace's email instructions (both 2009 and the updated 2013 version) mention this 2.) Turn the 2 water heater bypass valves to the ‘bypass’ position. (The valves are located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)

I've spent some time under our 17b's bed and can see two valves and I have shut both of them off.

I'm hoping mechanically minded Forum Members can advise me. I'm assuming that my owner's manual mentioning only one by-pass valve was an oversight which has since been corrected.

I've attached pictures which I hope may help explain what I am talking about.

thanks Larry
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:52 PM   #2
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Here is the diagram from a 2014 Escape manual.
One at the top and one at the bottom.
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File Type: jpg bypass.JPG (146.5 KB, 25 views)
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:09 PM   #3
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Hmmmm.... thanks for posting.

I see the pic now. On page 53. The winterize section is on pages 54/55. I didn't see the pic before going under the bed. I will dive down again to check the tank and look at our options list. The Manual index shows the by-pass kit as an option which I don't think we went for.

I plan to try using my son-in-laws air compressor, I'm hoping using air not having the by-pass kit installed won't make much difference to winterizing
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:12 PM   #4
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I didn't order hot water bypass. It's just there in mine ( 2008 ).
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:45 PM   #5
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thanks Glenn I have both valves in mine also. now I'm set to continue winterizing.
I've turned that other valve back to its original position (i think it runs to the water pump.)

last weekend I was at Chehalis River Campground for one last get-a-way. Now its time to tuck the Escape away for the winter

thanks again for your help
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:54 PM   #6
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I believe all the Escape have the hot water bypass as standard. The E-Z winterization is an option. The bypass allows one to by pass the entire hot water heater when pumping antifreeze through the system or using air to clean the lines of liquids. The water heater, once bypassed is drained by removing the anode.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:14 PM   #7
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It should be mentioned that those who have the EZ winterizing have a third valve to turn.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryandLiz View Post
thanks Glenn I have both valves in mine also. now I'm set to continue winterizing.
I've turned that other valve back to its original position (i think it runs to the water pump.)

last weekend I was at Chehalis River Campground for one last get-a-way. Now its time to tuck the Escape away for the winter

thanks again for your help
Your Escape looks gorgeous and so does the place. What a nice place to be.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:18 PM   #9
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Water Heater

After bypassing the water heater I flip the pressure relief valve up and then remove the anode with a deepwell socket. The water comes out pretty quickly and will get you wet if you're. In the way. As I observe the water coming out I also see lime slag and gritty white stuff in the water. When the water quits coming out I use the hose to flush out the heater a couple more times till the water runs clear. I make sure the anode threads dont have any grit in them. I dry the anode with a paper towel and store it in front of the anode hole. I flip the pressure relief valve back to closed to take the pressure of the spring. Then I close it up. Took me a lot longer to type this than to do it.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:34 PM   #10
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Keep a pocketful of loonies and toonies, or slugs so you can fill up the deep socket to the point where it helps secure the anode nut. Makes it much easier to get the threads started if you can apply a little pressure to the anode nut.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:52 PM   #11
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Loonies are for showers, I start the anode with these but switch to the breaker bar once I get her started so I don't twist it off. Took years of body building in the tavern to perfect.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:54 PM   #12
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Hmmm didn't post
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:41 PM   #13
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Thanks to everyone for the info and tips about rethreading the anode plug.

And Cathy, thanks for the kind words about our cute little 17b. The Chehalis River Csmpground is a pretty place. We get lots of rain here on the West Coast of BC - notice how wet the leaves are in the pics. We've been getting days and days of rain.
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:11 PM   #14
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Quick question ... Liz and I don't read "non toxic" anywhere on Liquid Plumr RV Antifreeze which I purchased at Canadian Tire. ETI manual calls for non toxic Rv antifreeze.

Since the hot water tank bypass valves have been turned, we are using the air-compressor system and we are only pouring Liquid Plumr down our drains nothing goes into any freshwater lines we are good to go.

It just bugs us a bit that we don't read the word "nontoxic" anywhere on the product when the ETI manual uses the word.

Larry
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:13 PM   #15
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Perhaps it becomes toxic later when you de-winterize and you dispose of the product.
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Old 11-09-2016, 01:01 PM   #16
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Interesting, the web site doesn't say it either. It does however tell you it's flammable, ethanol based.
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Old 11-09-2016, 01:08 PM   #17
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The MSDS sheet for Liquid Plumr RV Antifreeze is on the website at this link: http://www.recochem.com/liquidplumr/...-384LIQ_EN.pdf
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Old 11-09-2016, 04:28 PM   #18
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yep, non of that info looked appetizing which is what give Liz and I some pause

i think i'll still use it on the kitchen and bathroom sinks and be careful about how i get rid of it in the spring,

i've cleaned out the toilet and the black.gray tanks. I'm thinking of just leaving the toilet alone - no anti freeze here on the wet-coast i'm not expecting very cold temps ....
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Old 11-09-2016, 04:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryandLiz View Post
yep, non of that info looked appetizing which is what give Liz and I some pause

i think i'll still use it on the kitchen and bathroom sinks and be careful about how i get rid of it in the spring,

i've cleaned out the toilet and the black.gray tanks. I'm thinking of just leaving the toilet alone - no anti freeze here on the wet-coast i'm not expecting very cold temps ....
When I winterize, I drain the fresh, grey, and black tanks and the water heater, blow the water out of all of the supply lines and valves with compressed air, and pour a small amount of rv antifreeze into the different drains and toilet. I don't put any antifreeze into the freshwater tank or the water supply lines. I live in a fairly cold northern climate near Edmonton, AB and this approach has worked well for me in the past.
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Old 11-09-2016, 05:45 PM   #20
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I winterized Prairie Schooner today, took a total of 10 minutes. Drained the fresh tank (hated doing this as it contained British Columbia water) pulled the water heater anode to drain. Went inside and turned the water heater bypass valves (2) and the ez-winterization valve (1), inserted the pickup tube into a gallon jug under the bed. Turned on the pump, turned on the faucet hot and cold each until pink showed, did the bathroom sink and toilet, went outside and did the outside shower. Took one gallon total and 10 minutes. I leave a small 400 watt oil filled heater on inside so it never gets below freezing for any period of time.
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