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Old 09-23-2010, 01:10 PM   #21
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

I believe that what Reace was saying, is that if you drain out the lines, blowing is redundant. With my last trailer this was not the case, but with the low-point drain, it might not be necessary. When I winterize my trailer later next month, I am going to first drain throughout, then measure how much I can blow out as well to see if it is a significant amount.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:43 PM   #22
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

That will be an interesting test, Jim. Please post your results. Here in the mid-South we seldom get temps below about 12 C and never below -20 C (10 F to -5 F). I only winterized with anti-freeze once to our old Casita, instead relying on air to blow out the system. The drawback, of course, its discovering you are using an ineffective system the hard way. Fortunately, it worked for me.

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Old 09-24-2010, 02:02 PM   #23
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

Eric and others,

watch out for which model you got. It depends whether you can use the stabilizer jacks for lifting the trailer up or not. Only starting with some 2010 models (at least the 17' and 19'), more sturdy scissor jacks were installed which ARE stable enough to do so. But DON'T lift your trailer using the older version stabilizer jacks!!!
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:37 PM   #24
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

So, the new trailers have scissor jacks, nice.
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:46 PM   #25
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by gharms
Eric and others,

watch out for which model you got. It depends whether you can use the stabilizer jacks for lifting the trailer up or not. Only starting with some 2010 models (at least the 17' and 19'), more sturdy scissor jacks were installed which ARE stable enough to do so. But DON'T lift your trailer using the older version stabilizer jacks!!!
Gerda you are absolutely correct. Yes - we got scissors jacks. I think that that may not be the case with most as I got the impression from Reace that we got lucky because his supplier shipped him the scissor models by mistake.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:35 PM   #26
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

I was just working on winterizing. I did Reace's method 2 (no antifreeze) and then blew out with air pressure. I had Mary open each faucet one at time watch to see how much water came out. The most was at the toilet, but none of them showed more than some drops coming out with the pressure. So it would seem to be redundant. Even if there is a very small amount of water left in the line, as long as it has plenty of space to expand it should not cause problems correct? An exception would be the pump with water trapped in a confined space, but I ran it for at least 10 seconds as Reace recommended. In my normal over cautious mode, I may still put a small amount of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and let the pump suck it into itself.

On another note - for those of us with lots of calcium (hardness) in our water. There was quite a bit of white pasty matter in my hot water heater tank when I drained it - I am assuming it is calcium that has precipitated out. I decided to hook the hose to the city water and flushed out the tank until it was clear. I stuck my finger inside and the water pressure seems to have cleared it all out very well.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:48 PM   #27
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

The pasty stuff is some compound (probably zinc oxide, but I'm not positive) of the zinc metal which makes up the anode in the water tank. It corrodes first (is sacrificial) and saves the tank itself from corroding. The gunk is not harmful, but should be cleaned out periodically. When the anode gets down to pencil-thin, its time to replace it. They are cheap to replace. Be sure to wrap the threads with Teflon tape before putting the anode back in. Without the tape, they can get VERY stuck in the tank.

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Old 10-02-2010, 06:22 PM   #28
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric T
I was just working on winterizing. I did Reace's method 2 (no antifreeze) and then blew out with air pressure. I had Mary open each faucet one at time watch to see how much water came out. The most was at the toilet, but none of them showed more than some drops coming out with the pressure. So it would seem to be redundant. Even if there is a very small amount of water left in the line, as long as it has plenty of space to expand it should not cause problems correct? An exception would be the pump with water trapped in a confined space, but I ran it for at least 10 seconds as Reace recommended. In my normal over cautious mode, I may still put a small amount of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and let the pump suck it into itself.

On another note - for those of us with lots of calcium (hardness) in our water. There was quite a bit of white pasty matter in my hot water heater tank when I drained it - I am assuming it is calcium that has precipitated out. I decided to hook the hose to the city water and flushed out the tank until it was clear. I stuck my finger inside and the water pressure seems to have cleared it all out very well.

Hi Eric

Don't put antifreeze into the fresh water tank, if
you want to run some into the pump disconnect
the line from the tank and put it into the antifreeze
jug or put one of these winterizing valves in.

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Old 10-02-2010, 06:37 PM   #29
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garand
The pasty stuff is some compound (probably zinc oxide, but I'm not positive) of the zinc metal which makes up the anode in the water tank. It corrodes first (is sacrificial) and saves the tank itself from corroding. The gunk is not harmful, but should be cleaned out periodically. When the anode gets down to pencil-thin, its time to replace it. They are cheap to replace. Be sure to wrap the threads with Teflon tape before putting the anode back in. Without the tape, they can get VERY stuck in the tank.

Dave
Thanks Dave - I was wondering about that since the anode shows some decay. That makes sense that it is a zinc compound. Yep - wrapped it well before I replaced it.
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Old 10-02-2010, 06:46 PM   #30
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Re: How To Winterize a Trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by D. Priestley
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric T
I was just working on winterizing. I did Reace's method 2 (no antifreeze) and then blew out with air pressure. I had Mary open each faucet one at time watch to see how much water came out. The most was at the toilet, but none of them showed more than some drops coming out with the pressure. So it would seem to be redundant. Even if there is a very small amount of water left in the line, as long as it has plenty of space to expand it should not cause problems correct? An exception would be the pump with water trapped in a confined space, but I ran it for at least 10 seconds as Reace recommended. In my normal over cautious mode, I may still put a small amount of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and let the pump suck it into itself.

On another note - for those of us with lots of calcium (hardness) in our water. There was quite a bit of white pasty matter in my hot water heater tank when I drained it - I am assuming it is calcium that has precipitated out. I decided to hook the hose to the city water and flushed out the tank until it was clear. I stuck my finger inside and the water pressure seems to have cleared it all out very well.

Hi Eric

Don't put antifreeze into the fresh water tank, if
you want to run some into the pump disconnect
the line from the tank and put it into the antifreeze
jug or put one of these winterizing valves in.

Doug - I am not sure I understand why to not put the antifreeze in the fresh water tank? I understand about keeping it out of the hot water heater due to problems it can cause there when heated. But I have not heard of or experienced any problems in cold water lines or tanks. I had planned to just put in enough to get it to fill the pump and then drain any remaining antifreeze out of the fresh tank, as I have done in the past with our previous trailers and RV. Is there something different that I don't know about with Escape's fresh water tanks?
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