How To Winterize a Trailer

[Garand]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Geez, Dave. Very poor logic there, I am sorry to say. If you were to put the savings towards beer or wine, it would look a lot more enticing (at least to a sot like me).

LMAO!!
I guess I'll have to call a linearity foul on myself.

[escape artist]

Hi: All...Doesn't matter which country you live in...beer money is hard to come by!!! Here in Ontario Can. a case of 24 is 30 bucks+. I can't afford to use Vodka to pump through the water lines either as a 1.75 Ltr. jug is 50 bucks + and its 60% water anyhow!!! Alf.
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[gclatz]

Thank You Jeftz, Escape Artist, gbagio, and Garand for Your Answers.
I hope I didn't forgot to mention someone.

gclatz.

[escape artist]

Hi: All...Well she's all winterized and tucked in for a "Long Winters Nap". Escaped the winter storm to the south east with a little rain/sleet mix. Soon the Store-All will be full of playmates for "Our Escape Hatch" and I will have to deal with my "Separation Anxiety". Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[hippo]

Escape mounted the water heater at a slant so it empties very quickly and the low point drain does the rest. I only put some RV antifreeze in the Toilet tank and kitchen sink and some in the gray tank which keeps the seals in the waste valves lubed.

[Hokie Escape]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: All...Well she's all winterized and tucked in for a "Long Winters Nap". Escaped the winter storm to the south east with a little rain/sleet mix. Soon the Store-All will be full of playmates for "Our Escape Hatch" and I will have to deal with my "Separation Anxiety". Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Alf, that's one of the saddest pictures I've ever seen : - (
You can see the frown on Escape Hatch's front end! Now's when you wished you lived in Texas (but not in the 100+ summer).
Not quite hibernation time here in Virginia, although we got our first snow flakes last Saturday....maybe after Thanksgiving So sad! My condolences Alf.

[gclatz]

Method Two: Draining the Water Lines

Winterize your RV water system as follows:

1 Drain the fresh water tank by opening the drain valve on the tank.
2 Remove the threaded black plastic plug from water line located beside fresh water tank drain. (Low Point Drain)
3 First, hold the toilet flush valve open for approximately 5-10 seconds to allow water to drain. Open all other taps (including exterior shower) and leave open.
4 Drain the remaining water out of the water heater by removing the drain plug, (1-1/16” socket) which is accessed by opening the exterior water heater door.
5 Apply Teflon tape to the threads on water heater drain plug and re-install.
6 Remove the screened washer on the City Water Fill. Behind the washer is a white plastic one-way-valve. Using your finger, lightly push this valve in to allow a small amount of trapped water to drain out.
7 Once there is no more water draining from the low point drain or fresh water tank, switch on the 12V water pump and run for approx 10 seconds. This will clear any water in the pump head out.
8 Re-install low point drain plug.
9 Pour 2 liters of RV anti-freeze into the toilet holding tank. Pour 1 liter down the kitchen sink drain, and pour 1 liter down the shower drain.

Never turn water heater on until it is filled with water


Preparing your RV for use in the spring:
Flush fresh water tank and water lines thoroughly before using.
If you used Method 1 to winterize, turn the bypass valves to the normal position (see diagram on previous page)
Prior to operating the water heater, confirm it is full of water by briefly opening the relief valve. There should be no air present.


[/quote]

In metod two I have a question:
In an Escape 15B 2011 wich one is the 1-1/16" socket for the drain plug of the water heater?
I have one pic, If anyone can help Me with this one will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[gbaglo]

Look dead center at the bottom of the pic.

baglo

[gbaglo]

BTW, I found when I was re-installing the anode that my socket was too deep to allow me to easily position the anode. I drop two or three 'loonies' into the socket to take up the excess depth. In the US, maybe 50 cent pieces? Or washers.

baglo

[thoer]

Reading this reminded me to post my suggestion for anyone else with the electric element option on the water heater. Besides turning off the switch on the heater itself, I trip the circuit breaker for the water heater. I figure this way I will have to be having a double stupid day to turn on the electric element before filling the heater with water. But I wouldn't put it past myself to still forget.....

Eric

[gclatz]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Look dead center at the bottom of the pic.

baglo

Thank You so much Bagio, I didn't realize that the anode socket is also the drain plug for the water heater.

Gerardo.

[gbaglo]

Make sure you use Teflon tape on the threads before you re-install it. Wind it counter-clockwise onto the threads so it stays put when you screw the anode in.

And, you can find pix on Google if you look up 'when to replace your anode'. Shows what a corroded anode looks like.

Mine still doesn't need replacement after three years.

baglo

[Garand]

As the anode sacrifices itself, a wonderful mass of sludge accumulates in the bottom of the tank. It was so wonderful on our old Casita I ended up jury-rigging a piece of garden hose to my shop vac hose to suck up the gook.

However, there's no telling how many anodes gave their lives in the Casita before I cleaned the tank, as we weren't the original owners.

Dave

[gbaglo]

There's an anode in your water heater at home too. It too should be replaced from time to time, so you don't have to buy a new water heater.
Personally, I've never done it. Don't know how. I should probably learn, or at least pay somebody to do it.

baglo

[thoer]

As Dave says, there was a lot of whitish sludge in the bottom of mine this year when I drained it. I put the end of the hose against the drain opening and flushed it out with water until the sludge stopped coming out. My anode was eaten only on the end closest to the drain, but quite deeply there. The rest of it was untouched. I was glad that the anode has that plastic rod in the center to keep it from breaking off.

Here is some interesting info on anode rods: http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-anodes.html
I found the answer here to why our water smelled nasty at home after our last trip in Blue.

Eric

[Thane]

I use method 2 on my 2006 17b, but on my trailer there are low point drains for the cold and hot water lines near the front mounted exterior shower.

Even though I raise the shower hose to drain the exterior shower hose and handle, last year the exterior shower nozzle cracked so this year I am going to remove the shower nozzle and store it inside the trailer.

I turn off the propane to make double sure no one turns on the water heater when it is empty.

[gbaglo]

Not the trailer, but, I just removed the Y valves on the outside taps. One year, I stored them outside and they cracked. I was told that the steel ball bearing in the valve expands and contracts a different amount that the brass and that that caused the problem. So, I now store them inside.

The exterior shower head on the trailer, however, stays where it is. I just make sure that it is open. I think it is all plastic. No problem in three years.

baglo

[gclatz]

Ok, I got My 1-1/16" socket and a good wrench to have leverage, But I can't remove the anode element to drain My water heater, the drain plug seems to be extremely tight and I am afraid to brake the adjacent parts, I had put some effort to the point that I am shaking My trailer big time, Any one have a suggestion besides elbow grease?

Thanks in Advance.

[Garand]

Depending upon the proximity of other stuff, you might try a little heat on the surrounding tank. I'm not at home to peek at the water heater, but heat helps. Another option might be to fill the tank with water and heat the water. That may loosen the death-grip. BE CAREFUL if it does come loose as the water will be scalding!!.

I'd avoid using penetrating oil as it could easily contaminate your water supply.

Another tried-and-true method is to whack the plug a few times. I'd use a thick (wide) pin punch or a screwdriver and bang at the fitting all around its edges.

I had the same problem with my old Casita and finally got it loose with an extension on the socket wrench. A thorough wrap of Teflon plumber's tape will prevent the problem from occuring again.

Dave

[gclatz]

Originally Posted by Garand

Depending upon the proximity of other stuff, you might try a little heat on the surrounding tank. I'm not at home to peek at the water heater, but heat helps. Another option might be to fill the tank with water and heat the water. That may loosen the death-grip. BE CAREFUL if it does come loose as the water will be scalding!!.

I'd avoid using penetrating oil as it could easily contaminate your water supply.

Another tried-and-true method is to whack the plug a few times. I'd use a thick (wide) pin punch or a screwdriver and bang at the fitting all around its edges.

I had the same problem with my old Casita and finally got it loose with an extension on the socket wrench. A thorough wrap of Teflon plumber's tape will prevent the problem from occuring again.

Dave

Thank You very Much Dave, I will try Your method, ¿Should I leave the teflon tape even after winter?