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Old 05-29-2018, 01:05 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Sandy, Oregon
Trailer: 2018 escape 21
Posts: 5
Greetings from Oregon

Glenn & Becky
We are going to be owners of a 21 escape come Nov. 8 2018. Recently returned from Chilliwack to work on build sheet.Very exciting! We have some questions and Hoping that some of you can help us. We are considering the high lift axle, options for tow package.we have a (2014 Honda Ridgeline)and any thoughts on the inverter package
1) will the high lift take me out of slipstream and make trailer less stable?
2)Tow package I am considering a sway bar configuration without weight distribution option ,would appreciate input on that.
3) We like to boondock, knowing that inverter supplies 110v. I am torn between if this really necessary. Will be using cordless drill for stabilizer jacks and have to have 110v charging station.

Thanks for input
Glenn & Becky team
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:39 PM   #2
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: NorCal, California
Trailer: Escape 17B (6/28/18)
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Omit the inverter

If you don't have other needs/desires for 120 AC when boondocking, I'd suggest skipping the fixed inverter to save weight and expense.

We spend over 90% of our RV time boondocking without water, power, or sewer. We removed our Scamp's ancient inverter to save weight and space. We now carry a small 200 watt portable inverter to run/charge a notebook computer, mainly because the portable inverter is less expensive than buying the proprietary 12 volt charger for this computer.

On the cordless drill, you could look for a 12 volt charger for your drill's batteries. With a Makita drill, I used a 12 volt battery charger for years on a 35 foot sailboat - small and simple.
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:41 PM   #3
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Location: O town, British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 "Lightning"
Posts: 1,470
My non-lifted 21 has a noticeable "bug line" of perhaps two feet with my 1/2 ton.

If you are only using inverter for the drill, I'd grab another drill battery pack over the fuss of an inverter. Now, if I was using inverter for microwave, coffee pot etc etc, my answer would be different.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:08 PM   #4
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,622
Hi from Hillsboro, Oregon

We've got a 2014 21; if you need any measurements or want to examine the undercarriage you're welcome to come check it out. About 20 miles West of downtown Portland 3 miles N of Hwy 26.


The fixed inverter is a spendy - we declined as we've always had 12V appliances wherever possible. Our 160W roof solar works fine for boondocking (even in Oregon!)


We do use a small inverter (300 watts) for charging laptops, and car adapters for the phones. You might want Escape to run a 12V pair up to the shelf above the bed; very handy place to place the phones overnight while charging.


I definitely recommend the WD hitch. Very noticeable difference in the smoothness of the ride without the "porposing" on rough roads, RR crossings, and speed bumps. We tow with a Tacoma.



I think yours brings the count of 21s in Oregon up to 4........
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Old 05-29-2018, 03:13 PM   #5
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
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Depending upon the drill you have, one option I’d to take the biggest battery pack you have that will fit the drill. For example I have a Milwaukee 18v drill with a 2.0 amp
Battery but I can put the 9.0 amp battery from my circular saw on it and it will run a long long time between charges. Just a thought.
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Old 05-29-2018, 05:03 PM   #6
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B - "Toad". '08 Toyota RAV4 V6
Posts: 13,698
I use a weight distribution hitch with my RAV4 and 17B and have never had reason to consider adding a sway bar. In almost ten years, I've had cause to make quick lane changes to avoid another vehicle or debris and have never experienced sway. Wind and passing semis have no effect.
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:33 PM   #7
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
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One advantage of the high-lift option is that one can fit into a shorter campsite by backing the trailer wheels up to the campsite wheelstop, curb, or rocks without hitting the undercarriage. Essentially allowing the trailer overhang past the rear axle to be over objects that might interfere with a lower trailer by a few inches.

I have not noticed any instability with the high-lift option.
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Old 05-30-2018, 01:32 AM   #8
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Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
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um, when your drill runs out of batteries, use the hand crank, its really not that hard, just takes a minute to crank all 4 up or down.

once a year squirt the lead screws in the stabilizer jacks with some lithium spray grease, and it will be much smoother.
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:53 AM   #9
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Location: Signal Mountain (Chattanooga), Tennessee
Trailer: Escape 21 November 2014; 2016 Ram Eco-diesel 4WD Crew
Posts: 477
Seeing all the new Escapes at the rally, we noticed that the newer ones are 1 to 2 inches higher onto the trailer’s step, when compared to our 2014.
With the additional 4 inch high-lift you’d increase your chance of needing a helper step, unless you both are young and/or nimble.
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