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Old 01-19-2016, 08:30 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner View Post
And of course the price of our trailer went up.....
I don't think there is a down, only up, at least in my experience.
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I believe Jim B had posted a how to for the HW tank LED as well as moving the switch to inside the trailer. We use it, it's a good mod to do. Obviously ETI will not do it for you.
Here is the write I did on the mod. I most definitely plan to do this to my 5.0, though probably with a smaller lit toggle. In this mod, I just took advantage of an existing duplex plug, which we never used once.

Water Heater Indicator lights and 120V Switch.
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
. I've NOT heard of anyone actually doing such.

On Edit... I wonder if doing the mod nullifies the heaters warranty, if so that may be why ETI wants no part of it. You are cutting the wire to the manufactures built in power switch.
Ummmm.......yeah......guess what one of my incentives for the mod was?

I can't possibly see how it could be a warranty issue. Putting a switch in line with the power supply would have no effect on how it performs. The line cut is part of the trailer supply, and not one of the heater's.
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We would not be without a dual water heater.
Me either. I mean why not? The biggest thing I love about it, more than the fact I don't use my propane, is that it is so much more quiet when operating. No need to only turn it on when needed too.

And this coming from a guy who boondocks most of the time.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:46 PM   #32
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I added a switch loop between the water heater circuit breaker & the feed to the heater. No change to the water heater wiring. While I usually leave the 120v supply to the water heater on all the time (just like your electric water heater at home), there are a couple of advavtages to having the internal swirtch. I can easily switch it off and go to propane when connected to a 15 amp pedestal, I don't have to go outside to switch it, and if you have ever had to replace the switch built into the water heater, you will appreciate not using it and wearing it out.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:18 AM   #33
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I'm wondering why the light switch mod is one that ETI won't do? It wouldn't seem to go against either the not slowing down production, nor the no unsafe mods rules. It might be that if there was a pre-made switch/light combo that could be easily wired without lots of messing around that they would be more willing?
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:15 PM   #34
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Since any modification of the electrical inside hot water heater voids the UL rating, it would not be something that a manufacturer would want to do.
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:21 PM   #35
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Since any modification of the electrical inside hot water heater voids the UL rating, it would not be something that a manufacturer would want to do.
Might be. But I ordered the "hot rod" electrical option for Ten Forward. I'm usually always hooked up to an electrical bush. And.. there's that 2 year warranty from ETI...
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:31 PM   #36
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The ETI warranty covers the trailer, not the appliances. Those are covered by the manufacturer of the appliance.
If ETI were to do anything to void UL or CSA standards they would lose big.
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:41 PM   #37
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water heater

While I appreciate the idea that if a person is paying for an electric hookup then he might as well get his money's worth; however, running an electric water heater 24/7 because you can doesn't seem very earth friendly.

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Old 01-23-2016, 12:09 AM   #38
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Old 01-23-2016, 01:18 AM   #39
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More answers to my questions

I've received answers to most of the questions I had when we were talking with Sarah this past Monday. They might be of interest to others.

I had asked about the brand names of some of their options as I like to do some research on stuff for the trailer (and add in more bookmarks! HA!).

Water pressure regulator - Valterra (interestingly enough, ETI charges less than what I found it for on Amazon and that's not even taking into consideration the exchange rate)
Sand pads - Norco
Hitch lock - Master Lock
Wheel chalks - JR Products
Power tongue jack - Atwood 300lb Deluxe

Any of the Jack-E-Up devices will work with the power jack.

The size of the hatch for the underbed access area is 7.5" tall and 16.5" wide (although she did type in 19' so not 100% sure it's the same for the 21').

I had asked about installing the TP roll in a different area due to not getting the sink and was told we could wait until orientation to install it. (wanted to have more space by the non-existent sink for showering and the roll is right under the sink, so I thought it might be a good idea to install it elsewhere)

They can only install the one type of toilet they use (I had asked about a Dometic low-profile, elongated), so like someone else said, you get to toss a good toilet if you want to replace with another kind. Bummer. Hum, maybe a planter in my non-existent garden.

They don't use the Nev-R-Lubes, only the EZ Lubes.

The sink I want to install is 15x15x8 and it'll work. (Yes, I know I'll lose some space under the sink, but I'm fine with that, as well as any counter space. And no, I won't fill it up with water when washing dishes!) I was concerned it was too big, but Sarah said they can install it. The basin is appx 11.5x12. It has a single faucet hole in the upper right, but they can rotate it 90 degrees, so the faucet will be on the left, which I think will be better and more out of the way of doing stuff on the counter. I'm going to order it and the matching faucet from Pioneer Building as with the exchange rate it's lots less expensive than from an American vendor. I've written to them for a quote as I don't know if the one I got in Sept is still valid. So, two fewer things I need to haul up there when the time comes. Yay!

(I'm in love with this sink and faucet!!! So, I was excited to find out they would work. Never thought I'd be so excited about appliances. Never in my wildest dreams!)

And, as referenced in a separate thread I started, they will install the 12v heat tape. I just need to figure out which pipes and how much of the stuff to send to them.

I'm waiting to hear back on one more question and that's it. Yay!
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:22 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Since any modification of the electrical inside hot water heater voids the UL rating, it would not be something that a manufacturer would want to do.
As adding a switch to the power supply line has nothing at all to do with the water heater itself, I can't see this being the issue. For starters, there is no way that there is any potential for it to cause any issue at all with the water heater.

If someone bypassed the switch on the water heater itself to do this mod, I could see a possible warranty issue, though would not be concerned myself.

There must be another reason that Escape will not do it, as it is such an easy thing to do. I have added the query to my list for when I visit Reace next month.
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