Ford F150 Letdown and warning

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by JeffinBC

Hey Ron. I suspect you’ve already thought of this but how old is your battery? I’ve read a number of accounts online of electrical systems malfunctioning as a result of a dying battery. Hope you get it figured out.

Last winter my 2020 4Runner started developing a host of electrical problems, mostly related to the remote start functions. Turned out the problem was related to a weak cell in the battery, the battery was fine for starting the truck but the voltage was insufficient to properly operate the electronics. Once the battery was replaced on warranty, the electrical issues disappeared.

[Ron in BC]

What was that movie that had a line something like "they only build you up to cut you down"? I sort of feel that way this morning.

Last night, yep, burning the midnight oil, I thought that I had discovered the answer and solution to my problems. I found a TSB SSB47045 that related pretty exactly to my situation. It included a simple process for accessing hidden codes. Really simple, hold "OK" button and turn on ignition and you'll get a "TEST" screen. All I got was the same old fault warnings.

That what doesn't kill you.............

Ron

[2Travelers]

Here's another suggestion for taking a close look at your battery. One morning earlier this year, I noticed my 2018 (3.5 eco) independently cycling its headlights off and on about every 27 seconds while parked. It had apparently been doing this much of the night as there was heavy dew all over the truck except for the headlight lenses.

The truck started and ran fine, the first time, but the second time I tried it the air bag warning light came on and wouldn't go out, and the headlights were still flashing. So I was off to the dealership for what I hoped was an extended warranty repair, but no dice. After keeping the truck for two days, they gave it back finding nothing other than a weak battery, which was replaced and which solved the problem.

With luck, maybe your issues will be traced to the battery and a relatively easy, if frustrating, fix.

[HABBERDABBER]

I have experienced an intermittent auto battery issue. Lead flakes off the plates over time and then can short out a cell. Turn a corner, flakes move and OK or shorted. A fresh battery would be one way to start the trouble shooting process.

[Tosh]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

....I thought that I had discovered the answer and solution to my problems. I found a TSB SSB47045 that related pretty exactly to my situation. It included a simple process for accessing hidden codes. Really simple, hold "OK" button and turn on ignition and you'll get a "TEST" screen. All I got was the same old fault warnings..............

Ron

I suspect the reason you aren't getting any fault codes is because there are none.


I had a very similar situation with my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee - a lot of warning lights on the dash, no radio, no defroster, and limp mode (turbo disabled) amongst the symptoms.


My 5.5 year old battery was the cause of all the problems. Installed a new AGM battery, and all faults were eliminated.


Now I have a 2021 F-150, and I know that some of those left the factory with bad batteries. The problems caused were very similar to your report; you may have already read about this in your research.


In the old days before computers took over, you could get by with a weak battery as long as you could get the vehicle started. Today the battery performance is more critical to support the computer and sensors.

[Rockhead]

I had this issue on my 2017 Silverado 5.3. Kept getting different codes that didn’t make any sense. Went and had the battery tested and a cell was going bad. Had a.new battery installed and bingo no more issues. I’d change out your battery

[MrLynn]

Originally Posted by brroberts

I’ve not yet had trouble with the Ranger yet, but one oft used tactic on that forum is to disconnect the battery for about a half hour.

When in doubt, unplug and then RESTART!

[Centex]

Sorry to read of your F150 issues, Ron

Just curious, what model year and how many miles on yours? (apology if posted and I missed that)

Regarding the "warning" .... given what you know (and don't know) now, do you have a suggestion for owners or prospective purchasers? Anything you would have done different in hindsight?

I hope you manage to find a resolution quickly without great expense.

[Ron in BC]

It's a 2018 4 x 2 Lariat SuperCab with 30,000 miles.

Since there's so many folks on the forum with 150s if it happens to them at least they'll know that there has been a problem and, hopefully, by the time my issue is resolved, they'll know what's involved to fix it.

It's troubling to see that it appeared to start about 2015 and continue for so many years, at least until 2019. I've not seen any reports of the issue for the last few model years.

I've done a ton of research and inspected as much as I can. Hugely disappointing that accessing the hidden codes process doesn't work. Almost worked yesterday. For a few glorious minutes I got the ability to turn the radio volume up and done with the knob.

I'll still be trying things up to my dealer appointment on Wed. Really hope they can convince me that they know about the problem and the solution before I give the go ahead for repairs.

Ron

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

If that has the 3 valve 5.4L engine, watch out, it appears those have a bunch of weak spots like the variable valve timing, and camshaft lubrication, and such, and are known to randomly grenade. shame, because the original 5.4L 2-valve Triton was a tank of a motor. I had a 2001 E150 with the 2-valve version.

Yes I am well aware of the weakness of that motor, mainly they fail prematurely because of lack of oil maintenance and roller follower wear. At 92000 miles and 50,000 of my ownership I have changed oil every 3 to 5000 miles, mostly at 3, and used mototcraft filters, both of which are critical to this engine At 130,00 or so Ill do the timing rebuild as a preventive measure, plus install a higher capacity oil pump . I sent an audio of my engine to FordTech Makaloko guy who rebuilds them every week, he pronounced that it sounded like a new one and the job was not needed yet.
My next truck will be a 3/4ton better matching my new upcoming trailer.

I have known folks to get 200,000 out of this motor with meticulous care though.

[MrLynn]

OK, I have the 5.4L V8 in my 2013 Expedition. Is it a 2-valve or 3-valve engine?

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by MrLynn

OK, I have the 5.4L V8 in my 2013 Expedition. Is it a 2-valve or 3-valve engine?

3 valve

[Centex]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

If that has the 3 valve 5.4L engine, watch out ....

I keep watching the 3 valve 5.4 in my one-owner 2005 F150 XLT, at ~120,000 miles it just keeps on 'ticking' (It's still here as my 'backup' transportation)

Similar to oldwave ... Motorcraft filter and Mobile 1 @ 3-5k miles, it's been a 'towing fool' all of its life.

Fingers crossed that the 3.5 EcoBoost (and everything else) in the high-tech 2022 Lariat serves me as well

[Perry Butler]

We have a 2019 F150 Lariat with the 3.5 EB engine and had a 2015 F150 XLT 3.5 EB. We’ve always been able to use BLISS with our 5.0 by telling the F150’s it’s a conventional trailer (not a 5th wheel or gooseneck). Last week was the first time we’d pulled the camper since April.

The BLISS works fine when the camper is not hooked up, but won’t work when the umbilical is connected. Yes, I’ve tried reprogramming the BLISS, but when I go to do the final step it tells me I do not have a conventional trailer, even though I’ve told the truck it’s a conventional.

After 24 hours of rest the battery reads 12.2v. Once started it reads 13.7v. What readings were those who replaced their batteries getting?

What should the normal reading be? My readings should be in the normal range.

I’m going down and disconnecting the battery and not hook it back up until tomorrow. However I won’t be pulling the camper until next Thursday when we head to the MRR.

Thanks,

Perry

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Perry Butler

We have a 2019 F150 Lariat with the 3.5 EB engine and had a 2015 F150 XLT 3.5 EB. We’ve always been able to use BLISS with our 5.0 by telling the F150’s it’s a conventional trailer (not a 5th wheel or gooseneck). Last week was the first time we’d pulled the camper since April.

The BLISS works fine when the camper is not hooked up, but won’t work when the umbilical is connected. Yes, I’ve tried reprogramming the BLISS, but when I go to do the final step it tells me I do not have a conventional trailer, even though I’ve told the truck it’s a conventional.

After 24 hours of rest the battery reads 12.2v. Once started it reads 13.7v. What readings were those who replaced their batteries getting?

What should the normal reading be? My readings should be in the normal range.

I’m going down and disconnecting the battery and not hook it back up until tomorrow. However I won’t be pulling the camper until next Thursday when we head to the MRR.

Thanks,

Perry

12.2V is a fairly deeply discharged battery. 13.7V should be a good healthy charging voltage

[2Travelers]

Originally Posted by Perry Butler

...

After 24 hours of rest the battery reads 12.2v. Once started it reads 13.7v. What readings were those who replaced their batteries getting?

…

Thanks,

Perry

Sorry, Perry, I didn’t take any readings before my truck went into the shop and didn’t know, or even suspect, it was a battery problem until it came out. I was so flummoxed by the whole event that I didn’t even think to ask. The truck had been trouble free prior to this.

[WillyB]

"In the old days before computers took over, you could get by with a weak battery as long as you could get the vehicle started. Today the battery performance is more critical to support the computer and sensors."

Exactly!

[Mike G]

Ron, if yours has the original battery it would be worth replacing the thing today just to see if the problems go away. At 4 years it can't last much longer anyway even if it's still good enough to start the truck. A battery is probably less expensive than a trip to the service bay.

[Rossue]

Totally agree; his truck is 2018 so it's about done. The AGM batts on these vehicles average about 4 years it seems.

I just bought a 4.5 V AM battery tender from Costco. It sits a bit in the garage- right now for a month and there is a good amount of parasitic draw on these vehicles.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Rossue

... there is a good amount of parasitic draw on these vehicles.

Just FYI, these notes are clipped from the introduction to the "Battery Drain Check" section of the Ford Workshop Manual for 2021-2022 Gen 14 F150s with non-hybrid drivetrain:

NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) draw depending on the vehicle's accessories. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 75 minutes (depending on region). Current drains can be tested with the following procedure.

NOTE: Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.

NOTE: Typically, a drain of approximately 1 amp is attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts are located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading falls to an acceptable level.

NOTE: To accurately test the drain on a battery, use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method.


Maybe worth noting that opening a door or the hood activates several lights and vehicle systems, so if wanting to do a drain test one needs to open the hood and remove any under-hood lamp bulb well in advance of the test then not touch anything for at least 75 minutes so the vehicle can re-enter its 'resting state'. Then apply your appropriate clamp ammeter to the referenced negative ground cable for measurement; if using an inline ammeter that should be installed before the resting period, then read after the resting period.

Again, just posting FYI for anyone interested.