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Old 12-22-2014, 07:39 PM   #41
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If my workbench was ever tidied up I'd be really worried.
One of the best sayings I ever saw, was "The last of good intentions is a clean garage".

This is so true, even after a major cleaning, it seems to immediately begin to be messy again.
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:18 PM   #42
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Some good suggestions and I'm trying a couple of things. The only solution that I have ruled out is slotting the socket tube so the clamping action will work. A light sliding fit is important and that solution would probably deform the tube making future in and out actions difficult.
Perhaps the solution to a slot is... lots of slots, making the outer tube resemble a collet chuck. The inner lip of the outer tube would need to have some relief ground in it for that entry issue.

Another option - if you want to experiment with some scrap tubing first - is to place the clamp as far as you can down the tube, with multiple axial slots allowing the tube to be compressed at the that point while the end of the tube is intact and unchanged in diameter.
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:25 PM   #43
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A pin and with multiple holes is mechanically strong and simple but since I'm going for infinite adjustability, then, yes, some sort of clamp seems to be the way to go. Haven't figured that one out yet

Ron
How about mounting your base post to a horizontal quadrant plate (similar to your altitude adjustment) that rotates on a fixed base, to adjust azimuth. The entire assembly would then be adjustable as a unit on the fixed base, or maybe two, one at the tongue, and one that rides in the bike rack receiver.
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:59 PM   #44
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Don's horizontal quadrant plate idea would certainly avoid any issue with a clamp distorting the tube. You could even do it as fixed and rotating flanges with a clamp (like a small C-clamp) around them... or just a flange on one and gripped by a clamp on a bracket (like a car's brake disk and caliper). Avoiding an arc slot avoids restricting the angle of adjustment (which isn't an issue for the azimuth that needs less than 90 degrees).
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Old 12-23-2014, 01:30 AM   #45
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How about mounting your base post to a horizontal quadrant plate (similar to your altitude adjustment) that rotates on a fixed base, to adjust azimuth. The entire assembly would then be adjustable as a unit on the fixed base, or maybe two, one at the tongue, and one that rides in the bike rack receiver.
Good idea and that would probably work in some situations. However the base of the support post is in a very confined area, sandwiched between the front of the tongue box and the propane tanks.

All is not lost though, I think I have a good workable solution. I'll try it out tomorrow and take photos if it works Oh yeah, two more days to do my Christmas shopping, I'd better get started tomorrow for sure

Ron
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:17 AM   #46
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All is not lost though, I think I have a good workable solution. I'll try it out tomorrow and take photos if it works
We eagerly await the results. I also like Brian's idea of a caliper and clamp. Hmmm.

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Oh yeah, two more days to do my Christmas shopping, I'd better get started tomorrow for sure
Ron
Your two-day shopping allowance reminds me of my old method: Wait until the afternoon of Dec. 24, so when you go in the store, (1)it's not crowded
(2)the clerks are tired, and leave you alone
(3)you just buy whatever's left; no decisions.
(4)the only decision then is, who gets the leavings that you just bought.

When I got married, that method went away, far far away.
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Old 12-23-2014, 01:43 PM   #47
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Good idea and that would probably work in some situations. However the base of the support post is in a very confined area, sandwiched between the front of the tongue box and the propane tanks.
I was thinking a disk only perhaps twice the diameter of the post... but I'm sure whatever you do will be good, Ron. I'm looking forward to seeing it.
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Old 12-23-2014, 04:34 PM   #48
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How about a fixed pipe flange for a base, with a wrench-tight g.i. pipe that you can slide your post over.
On the post is a welded or braised nut, say ½", with a thumb-turn bolt to jam against the base pipe. It just has to resist the twist.
If you're using 2" sch 5 pipe or EMT, then its i.d. is about 0.10" more than the o.d. of a 1½" g.i. pipe.
1½" o.d. = 1.900, and the 1½" flange base dia. = 5". Could that work in your limited space?
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Old 12-23-2014, 05:37 PM   #49
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Thanks for all the helpful advice. Here's what I came up with, not terribly elegant, but it does the job. The design process for lots of my little projects is often colored by miscellaneous materials I have on hand. Actually my design process used to make my design prof. at university turn white as a sheet But those artistic types are a little sensitive.

I had some nice s/s clamps but having to turn the nut with a wrench would have been a nuisance. I had this palm ratchet that I made in a university lab many years ago. It had a 5/16" thread so I welded a 5/16" bolt to the clamp.

The clamp clamps onto a tang from the upper tube. There is an internal sleeve and a pretty extreme amount of force would have to be used to deform it. Actually, a surprising small amount of clamping effort stops the tube from rotating.

Hope the weather clears up soon so I can try the whole assembly out.

Ron
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Old 12-23-2014, 05:54 PM   #50
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Thanks Ron! I don't know about clearing weather - it is winter in Vancouver.
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