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Old 06-14-2018, 11:21 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
you want an isolation relay to disconnect the trailer plug when the truck is shut off.

btw; the Toyota alternator doesn't drop the voltage to the 13.x V until the charge current drops to near zero. as long as the half dead trailer battery is sucking up amps, the truck should continue to output the higher voltage.

2nd and 3rd gen Tacoma's with the towing package have an isolator relay and 10 AWG wire running back to the 7 pin socket for the DC + .


Most new charging systems are temperature compensating or depend on the ECU to control the voltage, Some 2009's and all 2010's and above Tacoma 2nd and 3rd gen have smart charging systems. Unless you have the two batteries tied together with fairly heavy wire the charging system will not fully charge the battery in normal drive times. Or use a DC to DC charger.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:31 PM   #122
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Just an update on the breakout box rewire. You really should check the wiring crimps! I cut most of the crimps off and found that over half were crimped only on the wire insulation with the copper just touching.

One wire really got my attention as when I removed the nut on the stud holding the wire, the crimp fell off on the ground. (crimp on right in pic) This was on the white ground wire from the 7 pin. I could slip on and off the wire - it was that loose! That might explain some of the ghost issues I have had as the only ground connection I would have at times would be through the tow ball hitch.

Oh, and the wire lugs are for 8AWG.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:36 PM   #123
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I see 2 that are still intact, meaning you could slip it off and the remainder were cut off. This should take care of potential and existing 12v issues, nice work.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:49 PM   #124
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Jim - Have you heard back from Reace about any of this?
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:01 PM   #125
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I see 2 that are still intact, meaning you could slip it off and the remainder were cut off. This should take care of potential and existing 12v issues, nice work.
A number of them, I could have pulled off but I was trying to retain as much of the insulation on the wires as I could. I was afraid the insulation would be damaged pulling them off as the crimps were on the insulation. I prefer sealing the heat shrink on insulation rather than bare copper. There is not much slack left in these wires for installing new crimp lugs otherwise.
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:14 PM   #126
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Jim - Have you heard back from Reace about any of this?
I'm sure Rease will take measures to correct this issue before you pick up your trailer. My dealings with him on other issues has only reinforced the concept that he really cares about the quality of his builds.

My trailer was one of the first ones to come out of the new facilities with new hires back in Dec. 2016. The wiring issue may have already been corrected.
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:29 PM   #127
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Starting to sound like a recall
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:52 PM   #128
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Jim - Have you heard back from Reace about any of this?
In the past Reace has responded directly with the forum via posting, so that no one is the messenger.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:18 PM   #129
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If you take a Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel you can carefully cut a slot in the terminal and then remove it without damaging the conductor
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:28 PM   #130
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Here are the before and after pics - the breakout box has the correct lugs now.

All connections were crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked. I don't expect to have any issues with this box for a while.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:33 PM   #131
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Thumbs up

Nice work....
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:37 PM   #132
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Here is the before and after pics - the breakout box has the correct lugs now.

All connections were crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked. I don't expect to have any issues with this box for a while.
Nicely done, looks professional. Pride in workmanship. What a contrast between oe and your work.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:40 PM   #133
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Nice work....
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Nicely done, looks professional. Pride in workmanship. What a contrast between oe and your work.
Thanks! It's always a good feeling when things work out right.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:06 PM   #134
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Here is the before and after pics - the breakout box has the correct lugs now.

All connections were crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked. I don't expect to have any issues with this box for a while.
Wow. Nicely done. I would really like to see that quality level on the factory wiring.
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:39 PM   #135
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so where on a 21 is that junction box for the tow vehicle cable ? is that under the bed?

ok, I think found mine under the front of the bed, its totally different.



but, hmm, not sure I even see the brake line there. underside of my trailer is foam encapsulated, that kinda restricts access and visibility.
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Old 06-16-2018, 07:13 PM   #136
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Blue Wire in back
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:11 PM   #137
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so where on a 21 is that junction box for the tow vehicle cable ? is that under the bed?

ok, I think found mine under the front of the bed, its totally different.
If it was me, I would change that thing out for the box below. Having access to the studs allows troubleshooting and is a lot cleaner than butt splices.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ABN-Elect...&wl13=&veh=sem

It's the same box that I have on my trailer and costs about $9
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:25 PM   #138
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If it was me, I would change that thing out for the box below. Having access to the studs allows troubleshooting and is a lot cleaner than butt splices.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ABN-Elect...&wl13=&veh=sem

It's the same box that I have on my trailer and costs about $9
both the pigtail and the trailer-side wiring comes up through the floor RIGHT next to that metal box, and there's zero slack.

if I ever need to replace the pigtail, I'll do something like that.
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:31 PM   #139
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If I was to buy a junction box I would buy the Grote version instead of the Chinese copy. Made much better. Here is one at Amazon.


https://www.amazon.com/Grote-82-1000.../dp/B00HFLD7UM


Edit

Grote may be made in China now for all I know. We used one of these when we added brakes to a small trailer.
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Old 06-16-2018, 09:09 PM   #140
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both the pigtail and the trailer-side wiring comes up through the floor RIGHT next to that metal box, and there's zero slack.

if I ever need to replace the pigtail, I'll do something like that.
There seems to be no end to the reasons I am glad I didn't get the foam.
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