5.0 landing gear manual operation - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 05-11-2015, 11:01 AM   #1
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5.0 landing gear manual operation

During our orientation, the tool for the manual extension/retraction of the landing gear was taped to the inside of the forward hatch. It was explained that one end is inserted in the access hole for the motor and the other end is cranked using the tool for raising and lowering the rear stab jacks. It sounded logical enough, so I didn't actually take it out and look at it. This weekend I did and something doesn't add up. The tool is a piece of 1/2 round stock approx. 10" long. On one is the adapter for inserting into the jack motor and the other end is nothing, just round stock. The only way I could use the tool is with a good size vise grip. Did I get a tool that ETI had not finished? The only solution I can see is to get a 3/4 nut and weld it on. Any ideas? Thanks.

20150510_231821 by bobmac515, on Flickr
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:09 AM   #2
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T-bob, we got the same tool last week. Like you I assumed that there was a crank to attach to it (like the 5.0) and didn't look closely. Once home I concluded that the new one is intended to be run with an electric drill, but I plan to check with Reace in Osoyoos later this month.

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Old 05-11-2015, 11:49 AM   #3
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From my 2014 trailer.
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:37 PM   #4
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Looks like you're missing the handle part. Both pieces for Ten Forward were in the hatch next to the door. Since that hatch is deep, I couldn't see the bottom, but felt around and there it was. I wonder if the piece you have fits the BAL stabilizer handle?
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:57 PM   #5
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I believe Atwood changed the design, so one needs to carry an cordless electric drill to manually adjust the landing gear or get a nut welded on to the end. Mine is the same as the OP's photo.
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t-twnbob View Post
...The only solution I can see is to get a 3/4 nut and weld it on. Any ideas? Thanks.....
Variations on the idea: I'd use a nut the same size as the wheel lug nuts.
And I would weld it a short ways down the shank, so I could use a drill on the shaft end, or a deep socket on the nut.
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:58 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Looks like you're missing the handle part.
...
I wonder if the piece you have fits the BAL stabilizer handle?
Donna, how do your two parts fit together? The problem for Bob is that the end of what he was given is just a plain round shaft, so even if there were another part there would be no apparent way to turn the part he has with it.
The BAL stabilizer handle has (depending on model) a hex socket or a slotted collar to drive the stabilizer, but Bob's tool has no hex or slot on it.

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Originally Posted by dfandrews View Post
Variations on the idea: I'd use a nut the same size as the wheel lug nuts.
And I would weld it a short ways down the shank, so I could use a drill on the shaft end, or a deep socket on the nut.
Both excellent ideas.

If you want a hand crank which works with it, you could also carry a "speeder handle" (and a wheel-nut-sized socket) for use with the tool modified as Don has suggested.

If you want to get really fancy, machine or grind the end of the shaft into a hex shape, so it can be driven with a small socket or gripped with a drill chuck (which always have three jaws so they fit hex shafts even better than round shafts).
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:08 PM   #8
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Easier yet, contact ETI.
Maybe they'll just send you a proper tool for the application, or explain that one.
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:14 PM   #9
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Easier yet, contact ETI.
Maybe they'll just send you a proper tool for the application, or explain that one.
What, and spoil the mystery?
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:19 PM   #10
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Fortunately, I read this thread and have added my "crank handle" to my toolkit for the trip to Chilliwack. When I had my Scamp 19, I cut the landing gear tool so that I could use the business end with a drill, and then threaded the handle and put a half-inch chuck purchased at Lowe's on it so that if the drill battery died I would have a back up. I ordered a second crank from Scamp which ultimately went with the trailer when I sold it. So thanks for bringing this up. It wouldn't be too amusing if it were necessary to operate the landing gear manually but not have a way to do it.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:19 PM   #11
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Donna, how do your two parts fit together? The problem for Bob is that the end of what he was given is just a plain round shaft, so even if there were another part there would be no apparent way to turn the part he has with it.
I have no idea how it's put together and Ten Forward isn't at home. But the picture Bob posted definitely shows two different pieces based on the color. So my comment is the fact the handle portion may fit two different use tools.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:46 PM   #12
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I have no idea how it's put together and Ten Forward isn't at home. But the picture Bob posted definitely shows two different pieces based on the color. So my comment is the fact the handle portion may fit two different use tools.
The adapter for our 5.0TA is identical to Bob's. The two different coloured pieces are permanently bonded together. Some sort of clamping device (like a drill chuck) will have to be used. I don't think I will try a pair of vice grips. If Reace tells me that a drill is what is intended than I will weld a 13/16" nut to the shaft as has already been suggested. I don't want to pack a rechargeable drill. If the stabilizer jack crank isn't strong enough I'll make a more heavy duty one. If I am in a situation where I need to raise the front of the trailer I will use my hydraulic jack to assist.

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Old 05-11-2015, 08:04 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by GerriJ View Post
The adapter for our 5.0TA is identical to Bob's. The two different coloured pieces are permanently bonded together. Some sort of clamping device (like a drill chuck) will have to be used. I don't think I will try a pair of vice grips. If Reace tells me that a drill is what is intended than I will weld a 13/16" nut to the shaft as has already been suggested. I don't want to pack a rechargeable drill. If the stabilizer jack crank isn't strong enough I'll make a more heavy duty one. If I am in a situation where I need to raise the front of the trailer I will use my hydraulic jack to assist.

Mark
There's no need to rig up something that will work without a drill. The hand cranks with a handle are readily available online or at an RV supply store, and they're cheap -- $20 - $30 from the ones I've checked.
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:22 PM   #14
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Thanks to everyone for their input, it's turned into an interesting conversation. I did look everywhere in the 5r for any additional parts, but no luck. I did send a note to ETI shortly after starting this thread and included the link. One would think that manual operation could be achieved without Having to buy a cordless drill or making a trip to fab shop to have something welded. We are going camping this weekend and I would like have the ability to manual raise the landing gear if needed. I really wish I had discovered this during orientation! Hopefully ETI will send a response tomorrow and I will post it. Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:54 AM   #15
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Couldn't you use Vise-Grips if you don't get something from ETI by the weekend?
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:58 AM   #16
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Couldn't you use Vise-Grips if you don't get something from ETI by the weekend?
Probably, in a pinch, however vice grips aren't know for their gentle action. What sort of device came with your 5.0 TA?

Following Robert's post I found a couple of cranks on line but nothing I could get by the day after tomorrow. I don't think anything serious will come up this weekend so I will wait to talk to Reace.

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Old 05-12-2015, 11:04 AM   #17
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Mine looks very similar to the one ETI supplies for the rear stabilizers. The one time I had to use it I found it to be awkward because it is not a straight line into the socket on the landing gear. Maybe that is why there is a different tool now?
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:13 AM   #18
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Hi: All... I had to fire up the manual crank for the 5.0 landing gear twice. Once when the kill switch got tripped by accident and the second time when the battery finally died... at "Boothill" country music jamboree http://www.boothilljamboree.com. I hope I never have to do it again cause the threads on the legs are very fine and it takes a lot of cranky to adjust the trailer for loading on the truck. Alf
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:52 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by GerriJ View Post
Probably, in a pinch, however vice grips aren't know for their gentle action. What sort of device came with your 5.0 TA?

Following Robert's post I found a couple of cranks on line but nothing I could get by the day after tomorrow. I don't think anything serious will come up this weekend so I will wait to talk to Reace.

Mark
Look at post #3, it's one piece. The Vise grip idea was just for the weekend.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:07 PM   #20
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Using some of the suggestions above, I have modified the end of the shaft from my trailer. I now have 3 alternatives to use as backup, cordless drill, 7/16 inch socket/wrench or the tool to lower the stabilizers which is 3/4 inch. Basically, I filed down the shaft so a 7/16 inch socket would fit on it or the cordless drill. Then I filed out the centre of a 3/4 inch nut so it can slide on to the shaft if needed. This took all of 15min to finish.
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