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Old 07-06-2015, 08:30 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by techfan View Post
I believe it is. Ugh, removing caulk not easy. That is why I use Proflex over Proflex and don't remove it. I have found some stuff that works but it is not easy. It requires you manually remove as much as possible by mechanical means first e.g. Cutting, scraping. It is called Motsenbocker's Liftoff Silicone Latex Caulk and Foam Sealant Remover. Requires multiple applications and you need to let it sit and work.
Thanks much! Time to fire-up my air chisel...

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Old 07-06-2015, 09:02 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Over the years, I haven't heard of any clear CAULK of any brand that stays CLEAR.
Lexel does. Now you have.

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Old 07-06-2015, 09:31 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Lexel does. Now you have.
The point is.. why do you even need it on windows? My 1988 Scamp came from the factory with ZERO caulk around the windows... NO CRAP to scrape and replace and looks as good as it did (and leak free) from 1988. Love the GOOD buytl...
Donna D.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:33 AM   #44
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Most trailers I have seen do have the added caulking over the top edge of each window and I don't think the manufacturers would bother if the butyl was bulletproof. I would bet that trailers without the caulking have a higher incidence of window leaks. It was leaks in our old trailer that brought us to an Escape. And of course there are stick trailers out there that haven't leaked, but having experienced first $6800 damage and then $5000 just 5 years later (not repaired), we do anything we can to avoid leaks, including checking caulking over windows.

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