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Old 03-27-2014, 09:08 PM   #1
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Door insulating revisited

I tried and failed to find the previous thread on members' ideas about getting insulation retrofitted into older hollow doors (like mine). So, I had a thought while camping a few days ago...

Has anyone ever removed the door window? The securing screws are on the inside. My thought is that with at least the interior portion of the window removed, Reflectix could be installed. I'd cut a double layer to size, then glue it together. To install, I'd cut the double layer vertically on center, slide the latch side in first, then the hinge side. A couple of small tabs of Reflectix could be glued to the halves just above and below the window to keep them still.

I don't know if I'd do this if the whole window had to come out to access the void -- the exterior caulking bead on my window was very well done, and I wouldn't want to have to deal with its removal/replacement. But, if removing the interior gives the needed access, I'm putting a roll of Reflectix on my Depot shopping list.

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Old 03-27-2014, 09:19 PM   #2
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I am planning to do the same and just haven't got around to it yet. Please lead the way and report back to us.
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:31 PM   #3
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Dave -- I've emailed Escape to see how the door window is designed. Hopefully I'll get the news I want. I'll let you know.

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Old 03-28-2014, 03:39 PM   #4
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These windows are normally known as compression type, i.e. the screws inside pull the exterior window part and it will compress the butyl tape to form a watertight seal. I have removed several and it is helpful to have someone outside when you remove the screws to inside the outside does not fall. Once removed you may see wood around the perimeter to keep the window from compressing the fiberglass too much. If so then you access to the interior door area may be blocked.
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Old 03-28-2014, 04:45 PM   #5
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Go for it Bruce, and keep good track (with photos) of your method. It is your turn to do the first one, I did the cut a big hole in the side of the trailer thing first.
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:20 PM   #6
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Hi Jim,
I am curios why you cut a big hole in your Escape. Now that the "new" has worn off our 5.0, I am about ready to cut in a bathroom window.
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:45 PM   #7
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I believe he made his exterior access hatch bigger, this could be done in earlier 19' models but not in later models due to the larger awning which needs to have a leg support in that area now.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:22 PM   #8
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If y'all are willing to wait until after the Oregon Gathering in July, I can tell you precisely how the window is mounted in the door. I'll be pulling the complete window out of my new 5er to put in one with a custom stained glass panel.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:29 PM   #9
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I haven't heard back from ETI yet, but if the whole window has to come out, then I'll definitely wait until you do yours, Donna. I've never wanted to be first in line for an exploratory surgery.

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Old 03-28-2014, 10:04 PM   #10
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Don't do it Bruce! Haha...feels like high school!

The window would have to come out for you to do a decent job...and even then you still have to contend with the door latch being in the way.

There was another good idea on the forum about pouring in bean bag balls. This would be doable.

Remove the door by taking the hinges off the trailer...not the hinges off the door. Then remove the inner window garnish and you will be able to spread the door panels enough to pour in the balls. Rotate the door around a bit to spread them around. I liked the idea so much I got a bag to try out on one...just haven't got around to it yet. Now that the new 5.0 molds are here, it may be a bit yet before I get to it.

I bought a bag from Uline distributors...fairly inexpensive.

Hope that helps

Reace
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