Drymesh or hypervent under matress

[luckyone]

Thanks for the Hypervent discussion. I plan to order through a marine supplier here in the Seattle area. I will be installing it under both the mattress and bench seats. I now see the benefits of installing on the sides of the mattress as well. I know some had their mattress trimmed during construction by 1" to allow for this. What about those of us that didn't think about that? How difficult does that make for making the bed and does that effect comfort? Also, what about installing to the back of the dinette seats for the same reason? At what point is enough?

[Fox hunt]

never used it never needed it never seemed damp. but i don't full time and i use a dehumidifier in the winter when its damp here.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

never used it never needed it never seemed damp. but i don't full time and i use a dehumidifier in the winter when its damp here.

The 5.0TA's bed sits on the carpet, no need for something like Hypervent although I do occasionally get a bit of condensation between the pillow and the front wall of the trailer, just need to scoot down a smidgen.

[cpaharley2008]

I bought my mesh here, they offer free shipping and a 10% discount for Escapees.....
https://www.mattressinsider.com/matt...revention.html

[cpaharley2008]

I'm installing the mesh on top of sheet reflectix with a small 12v fan to pull the air down the sides and around the mattress into a hole to the space below the bed. It is on my list.

[Bakes99]

Would a layer of DriFast - reticulated foam under a mattress get enough airflow to prevent moisture. Appears to be very porous and much more affordable.
Thinking on replacing stock mattress with 10" Memory foam mattress. It's what I currently sleep on and like it.

DriFast (reticulated foam) - Ventilation - RV Marine

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Bakes99

Would a layer of DriFast - reticulated foam under a mattress get enough airflow to prevent moisture. Appears to be very porous and much more affordable.
Thinking on replacing stock mattress with 10" Memory foam mattress. It's what I currently sleep on and like it.

DriFast (reticulated foam) - Ventilation - RV Marine

It says that's what it's for. I don't see how it would work as well as a rigid and more open mesh, but I've not used it so who knows.

[arniesea]

Originally Posted by Bakes99

Would a layer of DriFast - reticulated foam under a mattress get enough airflow to prevent moisture. Appears to be very porous and much more affordable.
Thinking on replacing stock mattress with 10" Memory foam mattress. It's what I currently sleep on and like it.

DriFast (reticulated foam) - Ventilation - RV Marine

Since you have a 19' and also live on damp Vancouver Island, Check out post 193 in this thread. The Ikea slats give the comfort of a mattress on a box spring, plus excellent air circulation around the mattress. I did this mod last summer then camped in my trailer all of Nov. and Dec. on Orcas Island in Washington. I had zero, nada, no, issue with condensation in very wet and cold conditions. The Ikea slats flex more under the hips and shoulders giving a very comfortable sleep. Rivals our $2000 Serta bed at home for support and comfort.

[Bakes99]

Originally Posted by arniesea

Since you have a 19' and also live on damp Vancouver Island, Check out post 193 in this thread. The Ikea slats give the comfort of a mattress on a box spring, plus excellent air circulation around the mattress. I did this mod last summer then camped in my trailer all of Nov. and Dec. on Orcas Island in Washington. I had zero, nada, no, issue with condensation in very wet and cold conditions. The Ikea slats flex more under the hips and shoulders giving a very comfortable sleep. Rivals our $2000 Serta bed at home for support and comfort.

I have seen that a while back and have looked at the numerous threads. I’ve also had my finger on the over the ikea purchase button a couple times, but didn’t want to lose access to the hatch on the top as well as the water pump access.

[arniesea]

Originally Posted by Bakes99

I have seen that a while back and have looked at the numerous threads. I’ve also had my finger on the over the ikea purchase button a couple times, but didn’t want to lose access to the hatch on the top as well as the water pump access.

I get it. In my case, another mode we did was create a slide out under the bed accessed via the doors. So after that I think I only used the hatch once before the Ikea mod, and have not missed it since.

The pump has proven remarkably reliable, so for me, the everyday comfort of a good nights sleep far out way the inconvenience of removing the mattress for a once every ? year access to the pump. The pump has not required any service since the trailer was built in 2013! (Knock on wood)

Also, I bought our trailer second hand. I'm much more willing to do mods, drill holes in the shell, and all sorts of stuff on a second hand trailer than if it was brand new. There is just something about preserving that "new" feeling as long a possible that gives pause.

[7th Heaven]

Originally Posted by Bakes99

I have seen that a while back and have looked at the numerous threads. I’ve also had my finger on the over the ikea purchase button a couple times, but didn’t want to lose access to the hatch on the top as well as the water pump access.

If you have an IKEA close by and are not in a hurry to do this project keep an eye out in IKEA's As-Is section. This is where we go our Slat Bed base from.

As for Hatch access,
we modified the frame so that we would still be able to gain access

[Bakes99]

Originally Posted by 7th Heaven

If you have an IKEA close by and are not in a hurry to do this project keep an eye out in IKEA's As-Is section. This is where we go our Slat Bed base from.

As for Hatch access,
we modified the frame so that we would still be able to gain access

Well, I’m certainly leaning back in that direction again. Curious about the mod for the top access .

[thiggins]

Looks like a great DIY project. I suppose you could put hinges on the slats, or make it in sections to match the storage areas under the mattress.

[MaryK]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

Here's what the cushions look like after installing the hypervent. I'm going to try really hard to not let it bug me. Too much! Plus, I figure by the time I get the pillow covers sewn and they're tossed on there, I won't notice 'em.

Anyway, if getting the hypervent and the filler cushions, I'd suggest you get them 1/2 to 3/4" shorter (in length) than normal. I've not actually put both in, so I'm not sure if they would need to be a bit shorter in depth - just thought of that now. Will check it later and if it needs to be shorter, I'll post about it.

I did forget to measure the back cushion, but it probably could be shorten about the same amount and you wouldn't have all these wrinkles, or at least as many.

First photo shows how the filler board cushion curves up when it's in place. When you sit on it, it's fine. Second shows ya how it's a tad bit too long. Next two photos show you the oh-my-gawd wrinkles.

The last two photos show you how thick the hypervent mesh is from viewing both behind and underneath the cushions.

And for those wondering about the sticker on the window - here's what I got. I also put one on the kitchen window. Kind of hard to see through the tinted windows and it's coming off a bit on the dinette window - probably cuz it's cold outside.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PS - note the black screw covers I replaced the fuggly tan ones with.

I've been reading through this thread on moisture barriers and came across what you did in your trailer. I'm wondering about the barrier behind your seat cushion - did/does it scratch the vinyl on the wall? Our trailer was delivered a few months ago and want to prevent mold from occurring vs dealing with it should it occur. We do have full wrap fabric on our cushions.

I'm looking at the Aire-Flow Moisture Barrier and the HyperVent - don't know which is better or less abrasive.

[Eggscape]

I am not saying you should not use something behind your seat if you are in a damp climate or use your trailer full time but we are going to just use a pool noodle at the bottom to keep the back away from the wall. This should allow space for air and also slope to the seat back. We also travel most days and the seat backs fall down allowing them to air out while we drive.

[MaryK]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

I am not saying you should not use something behind your seat if you are in a damp climate or use your trailer full time but we are going to just use a pool noodle at the bottom to keep the back away from the wall. This should allow space for air and also slope to the seat back. We also travel most days and the seat backs fall down allowing them to air out while we drive.

I like the allowing space for air circulation. Had a few cushions fall down when we took our first outing. That I expected, but having the cushion fall every time we get up off the seat gets kinda annoying after awhile. I'm hoping the pool noodle prevents that.

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by MaryK

I'm wondering about the barrier behind your seat cushion - did/does it scratch the vinyl on the wall?

I've not noticed that it's done that. We took the cushions off several months ago to check the battery levels and I'm sure I would have noticed. I'm going back out to the trailer later today and if (!!) I remember, I'll check for ya.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by MaryK

I've been reading through this thread on moisture barriers and came across what you did in your trailer. I'm wondering about the barrier behind your seat cushion - did/does it scratch the vinyl on the wall? Our trailer was delivered a few months ago and want to prevent mold from occurring vs dealing with it should it occur. We do have full wrap fabric on our cushions.

I'm looking at the Aire-Flow Moisture Barrier and the HyperVent - don't know which is better or less abrasive.

DryMesh is soft and doesn't scratch surfaces. Friends that put Hypervent under the mattress in their Scamp16 did find it scratched the table surface. Unfortunately, there doesn't appear to be a supplier of DryMesh here in the US.

No idea how soft the Aire Flow material that CPA harley2008 found. You might check with him...

[MaryK]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

DryMesh is soft and doesn't scratch surfaces. Friends that put Hypervent under the mattress in their Scamp16 did find it scratched the table surface. Unfortunately, there doesn't appear to be a supplier of DryMesh here in the US.

No idea how soft the Aire Flow material that CPA harley2008 found. You might check with him...

I just got off the phone with Aire Flow. I wanted to check on using this product behind a back cushion against the vinyl. The man told me that the product is rough and could scratch, but if I were to put rubber shelf liner (the bumpy stuff) between the Aire-Flow and the vinyl wall that would prevent scratching and still maintain good air flow. He said no moisture would build between shelf liner and vinyl. Now that brings me to another question - would the rubberish shelf liner be enough to provide moisture/mold? Probably not since there really would be no air flow as the cushion wouldn't be raised up to provide air flow. Found it interesting though it could be used as a buffer between their product and the wall and no moisture on the wall.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by MaryK

I just got off the phone with Aire Flow. I wanted to check on using this product behind a back cushion against the vinyl. The man told me that the product is rough and could scratch, but if I were to put rubber shelf liner (the bumpy stuff) between the Aire-Flow and the vinyl wall that would prevent scratching and still maintain good air flow. He said no moisture would build between shelf liner and vinyl. Now that brings me to another question - would the rubberish shelf liner be enough to provide moisture/mold? Probably not since there really would be no air flow as the cushion wouldn't be raised up to provide air flow. Found it interesting though it could be used as a buffer between their product and the wall and no moisture on the wall.

No, too thin, you need air movement, thus thicker material....