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Old 04-24-2017, 08:10 AM   #1
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Rear Window Leak

After the suspected propane leak issue resolved itself I was looking forward to a weekend of camping. We camped up near Squamish and arrived Saturday just before the rains started.

I was sitting at the bench seat on the passenger side of the dinette in the evening reading when I felt cold water running down my back... Uh oh! I placed a towel to catch the water and it wasn't long before a dish towel was completely soaked.

Water was somehow getting into the frame of the window and dripping out through a small seam at the bottom of the frame.


I couldn't see any entry points that night in the dark so I left it for the morning. Unfortunately I woke up and a bath towel under there was quite wet.

This morning I was investigating and noticed that if I pushed on the exterior top right corner of the window frame there was a small gap where water would come out between the silicone and frame.


It looks like I need to reseal around the window. Has anyone done this yet? Do I need to pull the whole window out or can I just reseal around the frame?


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Old 04-24-2017, 08:16 AM   #2
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The ultimate and best way to ensure a proper seal is to pull the window, clean both surfaces, and then reinstall using a quality butyl tape. After cleaning up what butyl squeezes out, a bead of clear ProFles on the top is a good idea too.

For a temporary fix, you could just use a bit of ProFlex.
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:19 AM   #3
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Michael, you should not need to pull the window. Reace recommends and uses ProFlex caulk there. I try to clean up the area as much as possible and then put on a bead. With temperature changes and the different materials, aluminum and fiberglass, meeting, those caulk joints are an area that need frequent inspection and sometimes recaulking.

Edit - Jim is more ambitious than I am, and his method is better if you too are ambitious! And don't mention silicone - you'll give Donna the heebeegeebees....
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:26 AM   #4
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It looks like I need to reseal around the window. Has anyone done this yet? Do I need to pull the whole window out or can I just reseal around the frame?
We had a similar leak at the front window in the 19. Pulling the window out should be a last resort. It is probably coming in at the location you identified along the top perimeter. Clean up any loose caulk, tape around the window with a slight standoff from the frame edge using painters tape for clean lines and then apply ProFlex. My bet is that this takes care of the problem. With the age of your trailer I would consider doing all of your windows.

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Old 04-24-2017, 08:31 AM   #5
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Since your trailer is a 2009 I'd check all the caulkings at all the trailer's entry points. Caulking inspection/maintenance should be a regular part of trailer life. If you aren't inclined to do this work yourself, since you are so close to ETI I'd consider asking ETI to quote o what they would charge you to inspect and maintain the trailer's entry points, recaulking as necessary. Although, I've heard that stripping old window caulking is very time consuming.

My hope is that ETI not only makes trailers but also services their products. I think the labour fee was something like 100.00 an hour.
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:38 AM   #6
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Hi: msweet... Also check and clean out the tiny weep holes/slits and tracks in the window frames. Any amount of dirt/debris blocking these will allow the water to backup into the trailer. A pipe cleaner might be your new found friend for this. Alf
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:46 AM   #7
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Rear Window Leak

The only proper way to fix your leak I'm afraid is to pull the window as Jim says. It isn't a complicated job and with 2 people it's relatively easy.
Once removed and reinstalled with new butyl (1" x 1/8") let it sit a day in warm weather, ideally with the sun hitting it then hand tighten the screws again, more butyl should push out. Ideally leave it another day or so, remove any extra butyl and cap with either Proflex or Sikaflex.




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Old 04-24-2017, 08:52 AM   #8
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The only proper way to fix your leak I'm afraid is to pull the window as Jim says. It isn't a complicated job and with 2 people it's relatively easy.
Once removed and reinstalled with new butyl (1" x 1/8") let it sit a day in warm weather, ideally with the sun hitting it then hand tighten the screws again, more butyl should push out. Ideally leave it another day or so, remove any extra butyl and cap with either Proflex or Sikaflex.

Cheers
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I agree with Jim and Doug. Just adding caulking to the exterior of the window without replacing the butyl is just a bandaid fix that may work for a while but is not resolving the real issue. IMHO, you should just pull the window and do it right!
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:39 AM   #9
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As Doug alluded to, pulling the window is an easy thing to do. With two sets of hands, and material at hand, you will have the window back in, in less than an hour. You mind will be at ease knowing it is a new, properly done installation. Dave summed it up good with saying just caulking as a fix, is kinda just a bandaid treatment.
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Old 04-24-2017, 11:01 AM   #10
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One of the more "enlightened" tagline used by one forum member whose name escapes me is, "If it's not perfect it's not done." Words to live by IMHO.
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Old 04-24-2017, 11:28 AM   #11
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One of the more "enlightened" tagline used by one forum member whose name escapes me is, "If it's not perfect it's not done." Words to live by IMHO.
I believe that is "tdf" Texas tag line
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:12 PM   #12
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Pulling the window out should be a last resort.
I stand corrected. Pulling the window would ultimately be the most comprehensive way of attacking the problem. We went with the Proflex around the perimeter and it stopped the leak so we stopped there. But to the point of several experienced forum members the Proflex should be the first line of defense with a good sealing surface of butyl underneath.
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:47 PM   #13
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The ultimate and best way to ensure a proper seal is to pull the window, clean both surfaces, and then reinstall using a quality butyl tape. After cleaning up what butyl squeezes out, a bead of clear ProFles on the top is a good idea too.

For a temporary fix, you could just use a bit of ProFlex.
Thanks Jim! I will definitely pull the window and repair properly but I may need to resort to a temporary fix to seal up until we have some nicer weather... maybe just some kitchen and bath silicone that is already open.

I assume that most local RV or marine stores would carry the appropriate quality butyl tape and ProFlex sealant. Would you place the butyl tape on the window frame or around the window opening before pressing it into place? Any suggestions on cleaners for prepping the surface?

I also noticed that the gasket around the exterior of the window had some gaps. Any concerns?
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:57 PM   #14
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I stand corrected. Pulling the window would ultimately be the most comprehensive way of attacking the problem. We went with the Proflex around the perimeter and it stopped the leak so we stopped there. But to the point of several experienced forum members the Proflex should be the first line of defense with a good sealing surface of butyl underneath.


Dave I only tossed my 2 cents worth in because I worked as a glazier and did work at a fairly large RV dealership (one of our customers). So it's kind of second nature to me. Didn't mean to offend anyone.


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Old 04-24-2017, 02:06 PM   #15
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Dave I only tossed my 2 cents worth in because I worked as a glazier and did work at a fairly large RV dealership (one of our customers). So it's kind of second nature to me. Didn't mean to offend anyone.

Cheers
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No offense taken. I'm always learning and appreciate someone with your experience weighing in. Again our leak stopped with the Proflex application, but you've got me thinking we really need to pull the front window out to do it right. Just hard to justify when it isn't leaking now, so maybe this will be a wait and see approach.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:09 PM   #16
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Thanks Jim! I will definitely pull the window and repair properly but I may need to resort to a temporary fix to seal up until we have some nicer weather... maybe just some kitchen and bath silicone that is already open.

Think twice and ask Donna a why that's not a good idea How about some tape?
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:18 PM   #17
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With the age of your trailer I would consider doing all of your windows.
I was concerned about that last Fall so I did a pretty thorough inspection of the sealant on the windows when I was cleaning all the mildew off the roof and power buffing the whole top side above the belly band.

I did notice that the side windows had a bit of butyl sealant that was oozing out around the frames but no caulking. The rear window has only the caulking visible.

Once I have done the rear window I may tackle a bathroom window install like you did!
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:23 PM   #18
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Thanks Jim! I will definitely pull the window and repair properly but I may need to resort to a temporary fix to seal up until we have some nicer weather... maybe just some kitchen and bath silicone that is already open.

I assume that most local RV or marine stores would carry the appropriate quality butyl tape and ProFlex sealant. Would you place the butyl tape on the window frame or around the window opening before pressing it into place? Any suggestions on cleaners for prepping the surface?

I also noticed that the gasket around the exterior of the window had some gaps. Any concerns?
Like Ross said, do avoid the silicone caulk and use ProFlex.

RV shops will definitely carry butyl tape. Acetone is fine to use on gelcoat and is great at getting the old butyl off. I always put the butyl tape on the window itself, as you can place it accurately to near the edge. Placed on the trailer shell, it would be tougher to get it in the right spot.

Without looking close at the window, it is tough to see the effect of the shrunken rubber seal. I am inclined to think a wee bit of the ProSeal in the gap will do the trick fine.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:25 PM   #19
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Think twice and ask Donna a why that's not a good idea How about some tape?
My attempt at humour failed... I was just going to tape it.

Out of curiosity I looked up the issues with using silicone on the Fibreglass RV forum. One thread had some good points Why not Silicone? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:27 PM   #20
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I was concerned about that last Fall so I did a pretty thorough inspection of the sealant on the windows when I was cleaning all the mildew off the roof and power buffing the whole top side above the belly band.

I did notice that the side windows had a bit of butyl sealant that was oozing out around the frames but no caulking. The rear window has only the caulking visible.
It is also a good idea with a trailer that age to check all the seals around roof penetrations. If attention is needed a bit of cleaning and an application of Dicor Lap Sealant would seal things up tight.

I am not sure what Escape did with those windows, but the ones I have installed, I only caulked along the top, and maybe a bit down the side.
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