Replacing a Dometic RMD 8555 Refrigerator

[Chris R]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

The issue most often seen on the RMD8555 has been a clogged orifice. That does not seem to be similar to your issue. Second most common problem is the inability to use gas, the unit only works on electric. The beeping and failure to ignite were present.

I always had significant accumulations of moisture on top of the control buttons, between the doors. The amount of moisture varied depending on time of year and length of use.

With a 2015 installation date by 2019 I had to replace the main board and the moustache/eyebrow board. I do not think the main board failed, rather Dometic had advised the repair tech to do that first. Failure to run on gas was the symptom. The moisture issue had not been defined at that time. In 2022 the same issue appeared, failure to ignite on gas. Again, attributed to the moustache/eyebrow board.

You are on the right track in those screws. My recollection is that once you remove it you will discover there was an easier way, not apparent until it was removed. I used a hair dryer on low and then air drying with the board hanging loose. I never got to coating the board.

I once had the intermittent gas issue, took it in the RV repair. They found the eyebrow board was partially unplugged, vibration? It was plugged in, gas was fine there after. So far it has worked. Not looking forward to replacement.

[Jill]

For the last 2 years when we have been at Tumalo in Bend our fridge has stopped working on AC. I switched it to propane and it worked fine. After waiting a day or two I try again on AC and it works again. Go figure. We have not had a problem in many other locations including much higher elevations, much wetter and much dryer conditions so I think the location is just a coincidence. We have also noticed condensation around the control panel which I wipe twice a day. I also fluffed out the gasket and that helped a bit. Vaseline on the gasket helps get a better seal too. Since there aren’t great alternatives for the fridge if you still want the propane option we keep hoping for it to hold on one trip at a time.

Oh another thing I did which made a huge difference is remove the thermistor from its housing. I keep food items away from that area and it seems to help a lot in keeping the temperature stable.

[Rossue]

We had replace our home refrigerator after only 7 years. Just replaced a dishwasher after 11 years. To spend money on any RV fridge after 8 years to me is very iffy.

Hopefully Dometic will release a new model to replace the 10.5XT (which we love) that replaced the 8555. Escape wasn't the only OEM to use it- Airstream did too.

[Sailor now Trailer]

John, thanks for all the research done concerning the refrigerator, and finding different options for replacement. Our 21C is new to us, bought it last April. The idea of a compressor fridge interests me, but having to modify the entire DC system, not so much. My current setup is the 160w panel, 2 golf cart flooded batteries, and whatever Escape used for the solar controller and electrical management system. It does have a port on the outside that I understand is used for adding another panel? What I don't understand is, if I were to add an additional panel to this port, would the existing solar controller work with it? If I were to take the plunge and change to lithium, what additional components would be needed, if any?
We lived on our sailboat in the Caribbean for 7 years, had 12v refrigeration, 450 ah (4gc batteries) 260W solar and a 400w wind generator. But I installed all of the above and understood how it all went together. At the time, flooded GC batteries offered the best bang for the buck. I don't think lithium was even an option back then. BTW, refrigeration was the #1 power draw and #1 issue most cruising sailboats had, as most older boats had inadequate insulation in the converted icebox.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Sailor now Trailer

...
It does have a port on the outside that I understand is used for adding another panel? What I don't understand is, if I were to add an additional panel to this port, would the existing solar controller work with it? If I were to take the plunge and change to lithium, what additional components would be needed, if any?
...

I am in the process of switching out my RMD8555 for a Norcold compressor fridge. My upgraded DC system now consists of 2 100 AH lithium batteries, the original 160(?) watt roof panel and a portable 150 watt. I connect the portable thru the port which is close to the batteries and solar controller. The solar controller can easily handle the extra amperage from the portable. The wire connection is close to the controller - in parallel with the roof panel. Since lithium batteries need the occasional internal balancing at 14.4 - 14.6 V, I have "tricked" the controller into supplying this higher voltage by using a diode in its ground connection. It is important to note that the controller does not need high amperage wires in its ground as the actual current is only a fraction of 1 amp. All my grounds are tied to a single post and the controller ground is a light wire with the diode in series. Other than the solar all my other charging sources, 110 VAC converter and vehicle input remain at 13.8 (original) nominal voltage which is fine for day-to-day use with lithium. It just doesn't charge to 100%, which is also no problem when 110 VAC is available.

I might need to add additional battery storage if boondocking in areas of the world subject to more clouds than we get here in the south west. If that proves to be the case I am considering an A-B bank similar to what many boats use. That way I can isolate the batteries being charged from the loaded batteries, plus not having to worry about mixing different brands or age batteries. Just a thought at this point.


(My number one power draw was the water maker, followed by the refrigeration.)

[Sailor now Trailer]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

I am in the process of switching out my RMD8555 for a Norcold compressor fridge. My upgraded DC system now consists of 2 100 AH lithium batteries, the original 160(?) watt roof panel and a portable 150 watt. I connect the portable thru the port which is close to the batteries and solar controller. The solar controller can easily handle the extra amperage from the portable. The wire connection is close to the controller - in parallel with the roof panel. Since lithium batteries need the occasional internal balancing at 14.4 - 14.6 V, I have "tricked" the controller into supplying this higher voltage by using a diode in its ground connection. It is important to note that the controller does not need high amperage wires in its ground as the actual current is only a fraction of 1 amp. All my grounds are tied to a single post and the controller ground is a light wire with the diode in series. Other than the solar all my other charging sources, 110 VAC converter and vehicle input remain at 13.8 (original) nominal voltage which is fine for day-to-day use with lithium. It just doesn't charge to 100%, which is also no problem when 110 VAC is available.

I might need to add additional battery storage if boondocking in areas of the world subject to more clouds than we get here in the south west. If that proves to be the case I am considering an A-B bank similar to what many boats use. That way I can isolate the batteries being charged from the loaded batteries, plus not having to worry about mixing different brands or age batteries. Just a thought at this point.


(My number one power draw was the water maker, followed by the refrigeration.)

I forgot about the water maker. Ours was a Village Marine Little Wonder that drew close to 20 amps while running. I didn't even attempt to make water unless motoring or running the Honda 2000.
Thanks for your reply. It seems the existing components I have should work with a bit of tweaking. Curious, did you replace the battery box when switching to the lithium batteries?I'm going to research 6v l-ion batteries to fit the same box.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Sailor now Trailer

I forgot about the water maker. Ours was a Village Marine Little Wonder that drew close to 20 amps while running. I didn't even attempt to make water unless motoring or running the Honda 2000.
Thanks for your reply. It seems the existing components I have should work with a bit of tweaking. Curious, did you replace the battery box when switching to the lithium batteries?I'm going to research 6v l-ion batteries to fit the same box.

LiIon batts are nearly all 12V. You run them in parallel.

Water maker ?

don't need a battery box for LiIon if they are under the dinette benches like on the 21C. if they are out on the hitch, thats another story. I have 2 x 206AH 12V from SOK Batteries (www.currentconnected.com) which are roughly the size of the old battery box but wouldn't fit inside it, this gives me 5200 watt*hours.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

Water maker ?

I have 2 x 206AH 12V from SOK Batteries (www.currentconnected.com) which are roughly the size of the old battery box but wouldn't fit inside it, this gives me 5200 watt*hours.

I tossed the battery box when I went to AGMs in 2015. Made a drop-in support and used straps - like I did in my sailboat with the possible "upside down" event in mind.

Water makers are typically reverse-osmosis units to convert salt water to fresh. They need ultra-high pressures to work. Mine ran at 3000 psi.

Here is 6720 Watt*hours in one case. 560 Ah - insane.
https://dakotalithium.com/product/dl...-with-can-bus/

(Disclaimer, this is the brand I have been using on my fishing craft for the last 4 years.)

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

I tossed the battery box when I went to AGMs in 2015. Made a drop-in support and used straps - like I did in my sailboat with the possible "upside down" event in mind.

Water makers are typically reverse-osmosis units to convert salt water to fresh. They need ultra-high pressures to work. Mine ran at 3000 psi.

Here is 6720 Watt*hours in one case. 560 Ah - insane.
https://dakotalithium.com/product/dl...-with-can-bus/

(Disclaimer, this is the brand I have been using on my fishing craft for the last 4 years.)

ah, I consider those water PURIFIERS...

re big batts, the sky is the limit... here's a 12V 400AH, two of these would be 12V 800AH or about 10KWH