Bulldog Hitch Upgrade?

[dfandrews]

Hmmm. Our experience:
- After 5½ years with the stock ETI RAM brand coupler, we have had zero problems with it, so we'll stick with it. We use wheel bearing grease on the sides of the ball, and gun oil about once a year on the lever and sliding parts.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

What does this mean? Ram is a brand name, and more than one type of coupler is offered under that brand. Bulldog is a different brand; again there are various types of coupler from Bulldog, but most people mean the forged steel side-jaw design which Bulldog calls "Collar-Lok" when they say "Bulldog coupler". "Slip coupler" is an unusual term, and it's not clear what would be intended by that; the Ram used by ETI is a yoke-type coupler.

My guess is that you installed what eTrailer calls eTrailer-branded (but is actually the Ram brand) coupler of the same type as the Bulldog Collar-Lok, called "Sleeve-Lock", available in "flip" latch (like what Bulldog calls "low-profile" latch) and "ratchet" latch (which actually has a rack and pinion) versions.

Actually what Greg and I purchased is a Bulldog and at least for me was a lot more money . I mentioned years ago about the Bulldog trailer couplers or what ever you want to call them when I saw Oliver was using them on their trailers . I saw them at a old Vintage trailer show and saw how robust they were . So it took awhile but now others are seeing the need for better hitch couplers . Pat

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Actually what Greg and I purchased is a Bulldog and at least for me was a lot more money...

I understand that most people who say they switched to "bulldog" couplers are using Bulldog brand Collar-Lok couplers. I was asking Carl (ocala guy) what he meant in his post, which referred to "the Ram bulldog type of slip coupler".

eTrailer/Ram Sleeve-Lock couplers work the same way as Bulldog Collar-Lok couplers, and appear to cost about two-thirds as much; both are expensive compared to Ram yoke-type couplers.

[tractors1]

The person who built my shop placed it lower on the property than the driveway, so I've always had to fight with yoke-type couplers as the truck is pointed uphill about 10 degrees while the trailer is level in the storage bay. No problems at campgrounds when everything is level.


Finally changed out the coupler to a Bulldog, and I wish I had done this 20 years ago on my first trailer.. The jaw closes with one tap of a rubber mallet and the collar snaps to lock it in place on the ball. Flip the lever to open the collar, the jaw pops open and the ball is released.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by tractors1

The person who built my shop placed it lower on the property than the driveway, so I've always had to fight with yoke-type couplers as the truck is pointed uphill about 10 degrees while the trailer is level in the storage bay. No problems at campgrounds when everything is level.


Finally changed out the coupler to a Bulldog, and I wish I had done this 20 years ago on my first trailer.. The jaw closes with one tap of a rubber mallet and the collar snaps to lock it in place on the ball. Flip the lever to open the collar, the jaw pops open and the ball is released.

Yup. Just so much easier with the collar locking couplers.

[ocala guy]

I should have said collar lock in my post, but had a brain cramp and used slip. I did note the difference in the Ram verus Bulldog by saying slide collar appears to be heavier gage and the whole thread has been on the bulldog collar lock type of coupler so it should be obvious the type of coupler I was talking about. I will do better in the future. I did measure how far back the coupler was moved to fit in relation to the original coupler. 1 inch. Even with that much change it would be a real challenge to install bolts and nuts for the jack using the Bulldog coupler. Very tight to the frame rails and not much room to install the nuts.

[Greatboatz3]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Mine is not a Bulldog, but a RAM. Sold on E-trailer. There were a couple of reasons I went with this one over the Bulldog. First it was less expensive but had the same rating, and second, the holes were already threaded so reinstalling my power jack would be more simple. Here are some photos taken prior to installation. The coupler does not come open very wide, but does allow ample space for the ball to slide right in. The jack hole lined right up to the hole in the cross member on this one, with no mods required. The one thing that did change was that the coupler socket was now about 1.5" further forward than with the yoke coupler. That meant that the Andersen WDH brackets needed to be relocated. Turned out I had enough length on the chains that the relocation wasn't necessary.

rbryan,
Hi I will be picking up my E21c in August and am a bit concerned about the ETI coupler. How do you like the ease of hitching and unhitching your RAM hitch compared to the factory hitch? When I had the Casita many of the places we camped were any thing but level. Also I was almost never able to back the truck so that the ball and coupler were in line. If I was able to get any part of the bull under the flange of the coupler I would lower the coupler flange on to the ball to take some weight off of the jack and then kick the couple to the side to line up with the ball. I doubt I will be able to do that with the E21C. Maybe I need a back up camera on my truck.
I am also interested in that model because if I understand correctly the jack is in its original location but the coupler is about 1.5 " further forward. Or in other words the distance between the jack and the coupler is about 1.5 " greater.
This appeals to me as the first thing I plan to do in Sumas is to rotate the Jack to gain more clearance for my pickup tailgate. I will be drilling and taping new holes.
As a side note todays forum has a discussion about hitch locks and their vulnerability. Have has anyone found a strong lock such one by Proven Industries that is compatible?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Greatboatz3

As a side note todays forum has a discussion about hitch locks and their vulnerability. Have has anyone found a strong lock such one by Proven Industries that is compatible?

Proven Industries makes a model (2178 B) that is specifically for bulldog style couplers. Confirm with them on fit before buying though because there can sometimes be exceptions.
https://www.provenlocks.com/collecti...s/model-2178-b

[ocala guy]

Back up camera is a very good idea. Hope you are getting the power jack. It is well worth the cost. I have the 21 and I would not want to hand crank it up and down. If you go with the collar lock coupler you do gain about 1 1/2 which may give you enough clearance for your tailgate. I bought a Hidden Hitch 3/4" rise 2"drop15 3/4" long item # 80232 on e trailer that solves the tailgate issue. Cost $44.34 Good luck with your new trailer,.

[Greatboatz3]

Originally Posted by ocala guy

Back up camera is a very good idea. Hope you are getting the power jack. It is well worth the cost. I have the 21 and I would not want to hand crank it up and down. If you go with the collar lock coupler you do gain about 1 1/2 which may give you enough clearance for your tailgate. I bought a Hidden Hitch 3/4" rise 2"drop15 3/4" long item # 80232 on e trailer that solves the tailgate issue. Cost $44.34 Good luck with your new trailer,.

Thanks Ocala guy, I opted for the Fastway e2 WDH. There my be a we-bit of clearance or not but more is better.

[Greatboatz3]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Proven Industries makes a model (2178 B) that is specifically for bulldog style couplers. Confirm with them on fit before buying though because there can sometimes be exceptions.
https://www.provenlocks.com/collecti...s/model-2178-b

akcon you Rubi

Thanks Rubicon327, I just sent an email to support@provenlocks.com with a photo and etailer.com model# CA-5196H-B asking to confirm compatibility.

[ocala guy]

Just got back from over 5000 mile trip with our 21 which I had changed to a Ram collar Lock coupler and can say it was well worth doing. No more issues with coupling or uncoupling. Works super. Should be an option from the factory.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by ocala guy

Just got back from over 5000 mile trip with our 21 which I had changed to a Ram collar Lock coupler and can say it was well worth doing. No more issues with coupling or uncoupling. Works super. Should be an option from the factory.

Nice eh? Wish I'd done it from week one instead of struggling with that horrible coupler for years.

[kstock11]

Another vote for the Bulldog coupler! Installed in the spring. Now, hooking up and unhooking is a “non issue.” Should definitely be offered at the factory.

[dosby]

My coupler got damaged so I picked up this one from a local store six robblees (bulldog style was not in stock and I had to go camping soon)
https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra...r/CA5100B.html
And brought a welder to replace, took him about 2 hrs with a beer break, most of the time went to carefully grind off the existing coupler.
He said he used a stick instead of a wire so the new coupler should be even stronger than the previous one (done with a wire).
The new coupler is so much easier to work with, it's night and day. Took the trailer to a couple of trips already and the welding is holding up well.
The only thing is that the jack hole in that lower extra steel plate was not lining up perfectly so I had to enlarge it a bit towards the frame side.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by dosby

My coupler got damaged so I picked up this one from a local store six robblees (bulldog style was not in stock and I had to go camping soon)
https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra...r/CA5100B.html
And brought a welder to replace, took him about 2 hrs with a beer break, most of the time went to carefully grind off the existing coupler.
He said he used a stick instead of a wire so the new coupler should be even stronger than the previous one (done with a wire).
The new coupler is so much easier to work with, it's night and day. Took the trailer to a couple of trips already and the welding is holding up well.
The only thing is that the jack hole in that lower extra steel plate was not lining up perfectly so I had to enlarge it a bit towards the frame side.

The other thing is that type of coupler has a latch which will need to be adjusted (by turning the nut on the bottom) with time, and the adjustment should be checked now (since it may not have been right from the factory). It's essentially the cheapest possible coupler.

By the way, the stick versus wire thing is nonsense; he's implying that his wire-feed welder is inadequate to get full penetration, which just means that he isn't properly equipped. I'm sure it's solidly attached, but that could have been done with a wire-feed welder, too.

[dosby]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The other thing is that type of coupler has a latch which will need to be adjusted (by turning the nut on the bottom) with time, and the adjustment should be checked now (since it may not have been right from the factory). It's essentially the cheapest possible coupler.

By the way, the stick versus wire thing is nonsense; he's implying that his wire-feed welder is inadequate to get full penetration, which just means that he isn't properly equipped. I'm sure it's solidly attached, but that could have been done with a wire-feed welder, too.

Yep, true, they did say the exact same thing in the store, that the latch may need some adjustment. It's not loose when locked but it's not a struggle to deal with either. I latch/unlatch it easily just when the ball gets a little loose, just when the weight is lifted off the TV's rear. Not using a hammer or a crowbar like I used to before
I did look under the coupler to make sure the ball is securely latched.

For "stick versus wire", I did get the feeling he might be wrong about ETI's wire approach, but it's one thing to weld to a brand new frame and another thing is welding to the one after all the grinding and heavy beating with a hammer.

[Vermilye]

I have to agree with Brian - while it is easier to make a lousy weld with a wire feed MIG system than stick, if you know what you are doing, assuming you can set the current high enough, either is capable of making an adequate weld.

[Great Eggstrications]

Seeing some new activity in another Bulldog Coupler thread reminded me that I never got around to wrapping up my Bulldog coupler story from last Spring, so...

Since the new Bulldog coupler would move the center-line of the tongue jack about 3/4" toward the rear of the trailer, I needed to elongate the clearance hole in the jack support cross-member plate that's welded across the bottom of the frame rails. I took a hack saw to it, drilled a couple of 1/4" bolt holes in the remaining material, and made a piece of 1/2" plywood with the jack clearance hole located to accommodate the original jack location. This was to provide lateral support for the jack while the trailer was unhitched and the tongue was being placed on jack stands at the welding shop. The plywood had a second pair of 1/4" bolt holes which, when used, would accommodate the new moved-back-jack location. I also removed the propane tanks and mounting plate, and temporarily relocated the rubber hose, some wiring, and the break-away switch.

It was with some amount of trepidation that I headed off to the welding shop, hoping that our beat up original coupler would stay in one piece and the trailer would stay hitched till I got there, which it happily enough did. When asked, the guy that wrote up the job said that he had seen some couplers in use that were bent up way worse than mine, so I guess I was ok risking the drive up there: Airport Welding in Snohomish, WA - kind of a rural location, so they get a lot of farm equipment and trailers and whatnot.

They assigned the job to Matt, who did a splendid job, carefully torching off the old hitch, grinding everything smooth, and then welding on the new hitch in its place. Total cost: $200 plus tax. I re-installed the piece of 1/2" plywood using the front pair of bolt holes which moved the jack clearance hole rearwards the requisite 3/4", and drove home relieved that everything had gone well. I replaced the 1/2" plywood with a pair of pre-cut jack support plates that I got from the shop - one pushed all the way forward and to the driver's side, and the other pushed all the way back and to the passenger's side. This essentially locked the jack into its rightful position - I had always disliked the 1/8" slop in the original welded-on single plate. The 2 1/4" bolts and 4 big self-tapping screws were used to lock the new plates into position, with a layer of 1/16" rubber foam sheets sandwiched between all the adjacent surfaces to avoid that irritating chafing that would eat through the paint and result in bare rusty metal. I used 3/8" nuts and bolts to fasten the jack mounting flange to the top surface of the Bulldog (which unlike the original coupler did not have threads tapped into it for the 3 jack bolts) - fortunately there was just enough room to snake an extension and socket and washer and nut up from underneath at the very front between the frame rails and the front edge of the original jack support plate. I had to trim a little bit off of the plastic propane tank cover so it could smooch to the rear and find its happy place between the jack and the front storage box. The front of the frame and the new Bulldog got a light sanding and a new coat of semi-gloss black rattle-can Rustoleum, and the forward-facing frame surfaces got a layer of 3M clear protectant film to avoid future rock chips and the consequent rusty divots. And finally, recalling the tow vehicle dangling from the trailer safety chains over the edge of the I-84 bridge over Malad Gorge in Idaho last March, I took this opportunity to install shiny new G70 chains and hooks, and G80 hammer-locks.

Getting rid of the original coupler had been on the to-do list since the first time we found ourselves struggling to unhitch, and our wayward storage lot forklift driver provided just the needed kick to the rear to get it done. Once in a while we could unhitch easily, but usually it was way more complicated: position the trailer and then back up just a tiny bit (but not too far) to get the ball to the rear of the coupler socket (after chocking the trailer wheels if on a slope), if that didn't work then then try unhitching with the tow vehicle in neutral with no brakes applied (if not on a slope) which would usually eventually work since things could move around and the ball would grudgingly weasel its way out of the hitch socket. Failing that, 3 times we gave up and actually had to remove the ball mount retaining pin and drive the tow vehicle forward, leaving the ball mount and trailer behind, the ball still in the coupler, and then thrash the ball mount around until the ball would finally emerge from the coupler. Two of those times we had neighboring campers come by to ask what our problem was and if they could help - more than somewhat embarrassing.

Anyhow, our 6,400 mile, 10 week Southwest trip last Spring with our new Bulldog coupler involved 22 hitch/unhitch cycles, and every single one of them was executed completely without problems, issues, or drama. Just the way it shoulda been all along...

[alanerickson]

Thanks for the pictures.

Has anyone with the Fastway WDH installed a bulldog / RAM coupler? My trailer is in storage (not very accessible) but I'd like to do this in the spring if it will work. I'm a little concerned about the WDH brackets interfering with the propane tanks if the coupler moves that far forward though.