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04-03-2017, 03:42 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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Get a plumbers hammer (straight claw). No need to "hammer it," just tap it. Gentle persuasion works every time.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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04-03-2017, 04:06 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Seattle, Washington
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21 " June Bug"
Posts: 102
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We have had our 21 for about two months and have had a hell of a time with that coupler. One night it took us an hour to uncouple it, FRUSTRATING!!! Just put some hitch grease on it and that seemed to help a lot, first time unhitched..
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04-03-2017, 04:43 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L FX4
Posts: 1,765
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It looks to me like something beyond bending is going on with the latch. If you look at LRL's photos, the latch pivot pin is flush with the front of the coupler's ball socket. If you look at Ron's photos, the latch pivot pin is over the top center of the ball socket. Look at how much metal sticks out in front of the latch pivot pin on Ron's, setting the pivot pin further back in the latch bracket, and therefore the latch further back. On LRL's, there is almost no bracket in front of the latch mechanism, from the pivot pin being located further forward. Teeth on the latch that are supposed to slide forward and drop into the slots are already in front of those slots. Really strange! Does that make sense? Anyone else see the difference I'm talking about? Looks like two different coupler models and somehow the latch pivot pin is too far forward within the bracket that is supposed to hold it. Brian, If you haven't already, try pasting the two photos side-by-side and see what you think about how the two hitches appear to be constructed differently from the get go, especially the location of the latch pivot pin. Sorry if I'm adding more confusion than clarity....
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04-03-2017, 05:15 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnelson
We have had our 21 for about two months and have had a hell of a time with that coupler. One night it took us an hour to uncouple it, FRUSTRATING!!! Just put some hitch grease on it and that seemed to help a lot, first time unhitched..
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lube not only the interior but also the exterior part of the hitch
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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04-03-2017, 05:49 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
I strongly suggest not hitting anything with a hammer if you don't understand what is going on. Random banging is only likely to wreck more parts.
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Good advice and probably as much or more damage has been done by using force without understanding what's going on. Yet the old adage "If it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't work, hit it with bigger hammer" sometimes actually works.
Speaking of photo's, I should have looked at the OP's and seen that his problem is the exact opposite of the usual problem, the pins not moving forward enough to drop in the slots.
As much as I look at the photo and at my coupler I can't for the life of me see how the pins could be that much forward of the slot without a bent part being really visually obvious.
I'm wondering what happens if the yoke pin was given a tap in the opposite direction from my photo.
Ron
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04-03-2017, 07:00 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L FX4
Posts: 1,765
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If it helps anyone to figure this out, I've attached a few photos of our coupler mechanism in both open and closed positions, and it works perfectly fine (or has so far). If the OP has the same hitch (ours is the "Made in China" one), it really looks like the latch pivot pin is in the wrong place (too far forward on its support bracket), but how could that happen unless the pin is smashed in there or broken and hanging by a thread)? Lee, does any of this look remotely like what you have?
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04-03-2017, 07:22 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,845
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Good photos. I think Brian did point out the problem area where he indicated that it is "probably bent here."
If you look back and forth between yours and the OP's top view photos it looks like the area Brian noted is much more vertical on the OP's yoke. That would pull the top assembly forward. How that could happen without an impact from the rear is a mystery.
Ron
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04-03-2017, 08:02 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,275
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That yolk that goes down over the coupler
Hangs up about an eighth of short of
Seating on the lip of the coupler on our Escape sometimes. I used to use a small brass hammer and give it a tap and it would
Click into place. Then one day I put
A big screwdriver on the edge of the yolk perpendicular to the edge and thumped
It with the palm of my hand. It
Clicked home and that's how I've done it ever since. It looks like it's down sometimes but needs a little persuasion. Maybe?
Dave
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04-03-2017, 08:22 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
Good photos. I think Brian did point out the problem area where he indicated that it is "probably bent here."
If you look back and forth between yours and the OP's top view photos it looks like the area Brian noted is much more vertical on the OP's yoke. That would pull the top assembly forward. How that could happen without an impact from the rear is a mystery.
Ron
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I agree. The assembly looks like it was somehow bent forward. Almost like someone wrapped the safety chains around the coupler and attached them to a tow vehicle and pulled forward. Hate to even suggest it but is it possible someone tried to steal the trailer?
It takes some work, but after all this talk of hammering one of these kits might be in order:
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...d/AT15775.html
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04-03-2017, 09:04 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Arcata, California
Trailer: E23Q; previously: 2017 E21
Posts: 185
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I think those suggesting it's bent are correct... though how it got so is a mystery. Will keep you posted. Certainly don't see a way to bend it back... at least not on my own.
__________________
Lee and Nancy Leer
2024 E23Q, March, 2024
2022 Ford F150 Hybrid
Arcata, CA
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04-03-2017, 09:31 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Almost like someone wrapped the safety chains around the coupler and attached them to a tow vehicle and pulled forward. Hate to even suggest it but is it possible someone tried to steal the trailer?
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I had that thought also but it's hard to imagine why that would have happened. Getting even more speculative; if there was a coupler lock installed and someone tried to pry it forward and off with a crowbar, would it put that kind of bend in it?
At any rate, as much as I like to repair things, I'd probably be replacing it rather then bending parts back into position.
Ron
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04-03-2017, 09:44 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L FX4
Posts: 1,765
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The replacement kit in Dave's post (#29) may be the easiest and cheapest way out of this. We have a utility trailer with that same coupler latch mechanism, and the only drawback is having to have a longer-shank padlock (2 1/2") to lock the latch.
The link below includes a brief video describing the replacement (Note: You'd want a kit for the 2" model).
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...d/AT15775.html
Just a note to anyone following this thread who is new to trailering and might be having trouble working the coupler latch mechanism from time to time, next time try nudging the tow vehicle forward just a tad - enough to seat the ball in the front of the coupler socket. Since the latch mechanism closes from the rear, any pressure from the rear (such as the trailer rolling forward toward the tow vehicle) will put pressure on the sliding "foot" underneath the latch, and that pressure on the foot from the rear can jam the teeth of the latch and make it very difficult to lift the teeth out of the notches. Nudge the tow vehicle forward just a bit, or rock the trailer back just a bit, and the latch should lift easily. And once the latch is lifted, the yolk should slide back easily (assuming the coupler has read the instruction book!).
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04-03-2017, 10:33 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle
The replacement kit in Dave's post (#29) may be the easiest and cheapest way out of this.
and might be having trouble working the coupler latch mechanism from time to time, next time try nudging the tow vehicle forward just a tad - enough to seat the ball in the front of the coupler socket. .
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That kit might be a reasonable option.
Sometimes a good boot will jiggle it enough to release.
Ron
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04-04-2017, 12:05 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle
Just a note to anyone following this thread who is new to trailering and might be having trouble working the coupler latch mechanism from time to time, next time try nudging the tow vehicle forward just a tad - enough to seat the ball in the front of the coupler socket.
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This worked for us initially, but I found the screwdriver to lift it up works pretty well without having to bump the tow vehicle forward.
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04-04-2017, 12:12 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle
Brian, If you haven't already, try pasting the two photos side-by-side...
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Sure, photos are attached with more rough annotations of couplers with the yoke down (closed position) and latch levers differently placed due to bent part.
At this point, if Lee's coupler were mine, I believe that I would now know where to hammer... on the bracket of the yoke (not on any other part, and certainly not the the latching lever), straight back (not down on anything), and watching to ensure that the curve of the yoke is not altered. I might even put a clamp across the yoke to keep it from spreading. I would probably contact Reace first, to see if this is what he has encountered before, such as will Bill's trailer. Of course it's not mine, and it is up to Lee to decide if he understands the situation well enough to attempt a repair.
The replacement parts kit seems like a reasonable idea, but I would try fixing the bend first, with replacement (of the parts, or of the whole coupler) as Plan B.
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04-04-2017, 01:08 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,845
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The side by side photos certainly make it much clearer. I agree, it's repairable but it's up to the owner to decide if they're comfortable with doing that or just going the replacement route.
The big puzzle for me is how something like that happened.
Ron
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04-04-2017, 06:44 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L FX4
Posts: 1,765
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Brian, Great job with the photos and description. Seeing the differences side-by-side almost makes me want to go find an old coupler and see just how much pounding or pulling on the latch it takes to bend the yolk that much at that location. Almost makes me want to....
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04-04-2017, 08:53 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Still looks like someone backed into it with their hitch to me.
That bend wasn't caused by pushing on it with your hand .
The parts kit is cheap , I would just replace it , for piece of mind if for no other reason.
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04-04-2017, 10:04 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham
Still looks like someone backed into it with their hitch to me.
That bend wasn't caused by pushing on it with your hand .
The parts kit is cheap , I would just replace it , for piece of mind if for no other reason.
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Hi: steve dunham... When this happened before to another owner I think ETI got in touch with a farm implement dealer who did the hammer adjustment. I shudder to think just how this happened!!!
Last May 24 weekend while camping a fellow camper backed across the path into the front bumper of our truck. Left a ball imprint in the duck and chrome too!!! Didn't see it till back home either. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
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04-04-2017, 10:26 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Some one put a hitch dent in the bumper of our new truck and took off . $600 later and a new rear bumper , things were back to new.
The dent was a perfect match with a trailer hitch and ball.
I understand your pain and irritation with careless people.
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