2015 has yellowed

[iamunique127]

It seems the outside of our 2015 5.0TA has yellowed. It is not the nice bright white it once was.

For the last few years it has been covered over the winter but prior to having a cover it sat for a year or two uncovered. During the pandemic it didn't get the attention and waxing it should have because we weren't using it but it was covered.

Will it help to strip the wax and rewax it? I've used mainly 3M Marine waxes on the trailer over the years. The guy at the marine supply shop suggested 3M rubbing compound if there is heavy oxidation but that is not really a problem on the gel coat, on the upper fridge vent yes, but not the gel coat.

Thanks for any thoughts.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by iamunique127

Will it help to strip the wax and rewax it? No, it'll just be a shinier yellow.


I've used mainly 3M Marine waxes on the trailer over the years. The guy at the marine supply shop suggested 3M rubbing compound if there is heavy oxidation but that is not really a problem on the gel coat, on the upper fridge vent yes, but not the gel coat.

Gel coat does oxidize, to the point where it looks dry and ugly and actually starts cracking and crazing.

It you're doing a repair on it and wet sanding near the repair on older gelcoat you'll see how white the fine sanding has turned the darker older gelcoat.

I suspect some rubbing compound will be necessary.

Ron

[iamunique127]

Thanks Ron.

I meant I don't sense a lot of oxidization on the gel coat.

In your experience with boats, do the fibreglass ones yellow over time? What is done there?

[Perry Butler]

If inadequate stripping is done it will still yellow. If you just follow the directions the yellow will be gone and should stay gone for a few years. When we purchased our 2003 Bigfoot in 2016, it was yellow and massively chalky. We think a lot of its time was spent outdoors. Just a few hours of stripping took care of the yellow and the chalkiness.

I use Zep stripper. FIRST, clean, clean, clean, clean your camper before stripping. I put a mixture of Zep stripper in a spray bottle, apply it to a microfiber cloth and then wipe it on with lots of excess, leave it sit for 5 minutes and then thoroughly rise, then move to another area. I do small areas at a time, probably no more than 5-6 feet at a time and from the top down. If you let it dry it won't work. Also, try to strip and/or wax/polish when it's below 80 F for best results. I only strip and then polish when that side is in the shade.

This summer I'll be lightly stripping our 2016 Bigfoot since it still shines like new. After stripping I'll be applying Zep Floor Polish. I know how well it works, and see no reason to spend $200 for a bottle of ceramic when on the bottle it will say it's only good for a year or so. I also gave up on Meguiars a number of years ago because it just never lasted long. I want to camp, not obsessively wax.

Food for thought,

Perry

[Peony]

New to Escapes, and the compounds used for making fibreglass reinforced plastic has certainly changed over the years, but I’ve owned several 20+ year old fibreglass boats, that were religiously maintained with rubbing compound and manual elbow grease followed by waxing yearly, and they never yellowed. I’d definitely start with that, and see how far that takes you, and I’m definitely planning on using chemicals made for use on gelcoat specifically myself.

[Ron in BC]

The first stage of gelcoat deterioration is only a slight yellowing. Serious stuff happens much later. It's so gradual that a lot of folks don't really realize it until they park near a shiny new and very white newer unit.

You have to be very careful with any cleaner with an abrasive in it. The major problem is that you don't know how thick the gelcoat is. If it's on the thin side and a rubbing compound is used repeatedly it's possible for the contrast coat underneath to start showing through.

You really don't want that to happen. Use anything with an abrasive in it, no matter how fine, very sparingly and don't regularly use it as a cleaner. Keep it waxed.

Ron

[Peony]

My personal experience (from boats, which may be different) is that as long as you don’t use power tools, there is little to worry about. Those boats have at this point in time have that treatment done to them annually for over 40 years. But, that is with a very gentle application by hand with a towel.

[iamunique127]

Thank you for the replies.

So if I understand correctly, it's the oxidization that turns the gelcoat yellow? Strip the old wax, remove the oxidization and the yellow will be gone?

[Ron in BC]

That's basically it. If you took some 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper and rubbed it back and forth you'd see that the gelcoat beneath the surface is still the same white as always.

Not suggesting that you try that unless you're blending in a repair. It's only far down the road that severe chalking etc. starts to extend deeper than the surface.

Ron

[Selkirk]

A related question:

I've noticed that when looking at photos of older ETI trailers, that it seems common for the bathroom sink to yellow over time (more so than the rest of the fiberglass wet-bath interior). I doubt that UV exposure or weathering would be a factor in a dark bathroom. Would waxing the sink prevent this?

From past experience in coatings industry , I know that finishes based on older chemistries ( IE: alkyd or nitrocellulose) are more prone to yellowing in the absence of light. I guessing that may be the case with the gelcoat material used for the sink as well......

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Selkirk

I guessing that may be the case with the gelcoat material used for the sink as well......

Were the older sinks f.r.p. or ABS?

Ron

[iamunique127]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

That's basically it. If you took some 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper and rubbed it back and forth you'd see that the gelcoat beneath the surface is still the same white as always.

Not suggesting that you try that unless you're blending in a repair. It's only far down the road that severe chalking etc. starts to extend deeper than the surface.

Ron

Thanks Ron.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Were the older sinks f.r.p. or ABS?

Ron

My rig is away in storage so I can't check, but I thought my 2016 "Classic" sink was vacuum formed ABS. Being white, it may show yellowing more with age than the gelcoat walls of the bathroom.

[Chamberman]

Originally Posted by Selkirk

I've noticed that when looking at photos of older ETI trailers, that it seems common for the bathroom sink to yellow over time (more so than the rest of the fiberglass wet-bath interior). I doubt that UV exposure or weathering would be a factor in a dark bathroom. Would waxing the sink prevent this?

Heat appears to be a big factor in this plastic yellowing. I spent a lot of time looking at used trailers and those that had been parked in full sun the entire time here in the south show severe yellowing of the plastic parts inside. At first I thought it might be from heavy smoking inside of the trailer, but there are times that original owners will state that they are non-smokers.

I would know right away by the interior pictures just how exposed to sunlight and subsequently heat the trailer had been while stored. Of course you can also look at the exterior for fading, but as we all know you can restore the exterior with some elbow grease.

Due to the fact they're produced here in Texas, Casita's are quite prevalent here in the south. They also use the same type of sinks and AC's. Go to the for sale sites and look at some older Casita interior images and you'll find some of those with AC shrouds and sinks that are nearly school bus yellow. Many times you'll see that these trailers are sitting in an open RV lot somewhere here in the south. Just sitting there, cooking the interior for years. Then find a comparable year model that an original owner has kept stored under a hard cover its entire life and you'll see a huge difference....

[P&L]

Originally Posted by Selkirk

A related question:

I've noticed that when looking at photos of older ETI trailers, that it seems common for the bathroom sink to yellow over time (more so than the rest of the fiberglass wet-bath interior). I doubt that UV exposure or weathering would be a factor in a dark bathroom. Would waxing the sink prevent this?

.

Our 2015 has yellowed too. We have hot summers, but the trailer is under cover from above. There is some covering on the sides with tall plants but it does get sun exposure. We have a window so that doesn't help either.

Yes, very interested in how to remidy...

And, our trailer looks very white unless next to a brand new one!

[Ron in BC]

Plastic parts that have yellowed can be painted with spray paints specifically designed for plastic. They adhere well and are long lasting. Krylon is one brand that comes to mind.

Ron

[MyronL]

...well, not necessarily.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by MyronL

...well, not necessarily.

Given your location and 6.5 years between photos, I'm not surprised. Longevity of the paint may also depend on the base plastic type, with some plastics much better or worse for bonding to the paint film.

[Ron in BC]

Must be a factor because in addition to things like the hubcaps, which stayed painted, I also sprayed a plastic lounge chair. 10 years later the paint was still on. But it was in a shady spot a lot of the time.

I'm still a Krylon paint booster.

Ron

[iamunique127]

Originally Posted by MyronL

...well, not necessarily.

My license plate light cover has also yellowed like yours. I wonder if lightly scuffing it with fine sandpaper would aid adhesion.