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03-03-2022, 04:26 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Trailer: April 2016 21' "Ramble On"
Posts: 292
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Chipping Black Paint on Step and Back Bumper
Every spring I scrape / sand and then paint my back bumper (only the surface that points forward) and the front surface of the step assembly. After only a couple of months, they both end up looking like the attached pics (heavy sigh) and I'm back to square one. I assume the pock marks are from rocks / gravel that get thrown up.
Before anyone mentions surface prep, I do use an orbital sander to get things back to bare metal before applying multiple coats of Rustoleum Gloss Black.
Has anyone found a product can be painted on by a DIY'r like me that holds up better? I'm thinking of the stuff they use for truck bed liners.
__________________
Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt
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03-03-2022, 08:31 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Penticton, British Columbia
Trailer: 2021 17B
Posts: 95
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Truck bed liner seems like a valid choice. It's what I'll try when I get enough wear to justify it.
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03-03-2022, 08:51 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Jackson, Wyoming
Trailer: 2019 Escape 21C- Toyota Tundra Double Cab Limited 2011
Posts: 20
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My son turned me to 3M rubber mastic tape. He uses it to protect his carbon mountain bike frame. Prep your surface and clean with alcohol then I used rust converter and repainted. I hit the tape with heat from a heat gun smoothing the edge of the tape and insuring a good bond.
Worked great and that was over a year ago and I drive on dirt roads often. Hope that helps.
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03-04-2022, 07:49 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: n/a, Texas
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 757
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Por15 is the best I've found as far as paint is concerned. After yearly applications of Rustoleum to the axle, bumper, steps, etc I concluded that it does nothing for rust. Por15 can be messy to work with but the results are worth it.
https://por15.com/?utm_medium=adword...xoCxhQQAvD_BwE
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03-04-2022, 01:37 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Trailer: April 2016 21' "Ramble On"
Posts: 292
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Thanks for the input and comments.
I think I'm gonna try some 4" wide, black Gorilla "Waterproof Patch and Seal Tape" available at Home Depot. Will report back how it holds up.
FWIW: My manual awning had a couple of rips up high where it attaches to the trailer. I ran a strip of the same stuff (white color though) along the entire awning at the top and lapped over at the front/back edges. Has held up well for 2+ years and much cheaper than new awning. Tried the clear Camco awning repair tape first: Stay away, it started coming loose in less than a week.
__________________
Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt
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03-04-2022, 02:12 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,310
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Rusts never sleeps. You've got to kill it, not just simply cover it up. Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's not there.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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03-04-2022, 04:08 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Redmond, Washington
Trailer: 2015 E19'
Posts: 316
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I've had good results with 3M clear protectant film. Applied it to the forward-facing surfaces on the rear bumper, the step, and the outer surfaces of the 2 tongue A-frame members. Also the insides of the wheel wells and the under-body areas rearward of the rear wheels. It has held up very well for years, even after being pelted ruthlessly with loose gravel in Alaska and the desert southwest. Used both the self-adhesive and the water/alcohol/squeegee variety of film. The clear film lets you keep an eye on what's going on underneath.
Have also been real happy with this stuff, although they really need to work on their spelling...
https://www.amazon.com/KRUD-KUTTER-M...8&sr=8-43&th=1
It sprays on as a clear liquid so you can get it into tight spots. It leaves a whitish residue so it's good for under-carriage metal, but maybe not in visible areas. I just spray it on once a year or so and don't really worry about rinsing or wiping it off and I don't apply paint over it.
I've used it on various vehicles, but have thus far not used it on the trailer where I might get overspray on the fiberglass, not being sure how it might impact the gelcoat.
Perhaps best to avoid paint-on rust inhibitors, and in particular avoid glopping on thick "undersealer" that can separate from the metal and allow moisture and the consequent corrosion to occur undetected underneath - ran into that bigly in the past, but it didn't help that that was on an elderly British car that was built before they figured out that it works really well to throw some zinc into the the mix when stamping body panels...
__________________
Critical Thinking and Moderation - The Other National Deficit
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03-04-2022, 04:53 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Burnaby, British Columbia
Trailer: none
Posts: 48
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Por 15
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03-04-2022, 06:09 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Trailer: April 2016 21' "Ramble On"
Posts: 292
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__________________
Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt
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03-04-2022, 06:27 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Madison area, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19 Chevy 2012 Express 3500 Van
Posts: 1,920
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Go for it!
A physical barrier, after you sand and prime and paint/treat the areas in your photo might be the best bet. Your notion of the tape is reasonable and worth the experiment. Try 2 layers, eh?
Weird corrosion image you provided. Is it one side only?
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03-04-2022, 07:03 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Redmond, Washington
Trailer: 2015 E19'
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huskersteffy
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Yeah - that's it.
When I was buying it I found an Amazon seller that offered it in a lot of different size rolls - various widths and lengths. And there was quite a disparity in the pricing between various sellers. They make 2 types - self-stickum sticky on one side (only one chance when positioning) and the kind with no adhesive that you apply using a mix of water and alcohol (and then can slide it around to position it and then squeegee it). I used the water and alcohol type on the gelcoat and the self-stickum type on the painted surfaces. Both types have stayed stuck well.
My rear bumper and the steps looked just like the OP's. I sanded the chip spots down to bare metal, cleaned it up, primed it with rust-o-leum and let it dry really well before applying the film.
__________________
Critical Thinking and Moderation - The Other National Deficit
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03-04-2022, 07:40 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Trailer: April 2016 21' "Ramble On"
Posts: 292
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Quote:
Weird corrosion image you provided. Is it one side only?
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Yes. Bumper and step only get dinged up and corroded on the front side. Every other side looks fine. Assume its gravel / rocks getting thrown up on dirt roads.
__________________
Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt
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03-16-2022, 02:16 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Pomona, Missouri
Trailer: 2016 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 40
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I got a a tractor supply and purchase tractor enamel primer and paint. I also use the hardener. Vans is my preferred brand. Take it down to bare metal before priming.
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03-21-2022, 06:54 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Trailer: 2020 Escape 5.0ta
Posts: 11
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Paint and 3M undercoating??
I just dealt with this 4 months ago, so too early to tell if it's a good long-term solution. I sanded, repainted with Rustoleum paint + primer combo stuff, and then applied 3M undercoating to the parts of my 5.0 frame (like that front side of the rear bumper) that were taking heavy rock chips.
I've got a couple thousand miles since then, including a fair share of dirt roads in the SW desert, and it seems to be holding up well.
Time will tell...
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03-21-2022, 10:14 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Mount Vernon, Washington
Trailer: 2013 Escape 15 B. Room4Two
Posts: 466
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I had a similar problem on my landscape trailer fenders. I sand ,primed,painted, than I install some 3m tread pads I got at the local farm Store over the fenders. No more problem.
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09-01-2022, 12:25 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Brentwood Bay, British Columbia
Trailer: 2020 21C
Posts: 25
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The paint on our bumper and step (forward facing) is flaking of/has some dings (it looks like the pictures of the OP).
I am trying to find a rust paint in semi-gloss black that I can brush on. Tremclad Rust Paint is out of stock at Homedepot.ca and other stores. I found a Benjamin Moore paint that is available and can be tinted black: Coronado Rust Scat Polyurethane Enamel - Semi-Gloss ( https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-ca/...nado-rust-scat).
This paint cannot be used on galvanized steel. Is the E21 (2020) chassis galvanized?
My plan for fixing the paint of the bumper is to use a wire brush, apply Rust Disolve Jelly (Rust-Oleum), lightly sand (220, 400 grain), mineral spirits to clean the surface and then brush paint (1 or 2 coats). Do I also need to put on a clear top coat? Am I missing anything else?
Thanks!
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09-01-2022, 12:56 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 9,310
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No, the frame isn't galvanized.
I'm not sure that I'd bother with 400 grit. You want the surface to have a bit of tooth.
Unless the clear coat is harder than the paint I wouldn't bother. Just a second or third coat of black.
I don't regard the process as a permanent fix. To me it's just a routine item that I do depending on how much I drive on gravel roads.
Ron
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09-01-2022, 04:24 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Trailer: April 2016 21' "Ramble On"
Posts: 292
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Update on the 3M tape solution.
We were down on the Texas gulf coast in April and camped on or right next to the Beach for about a week. HOLY COW the sea air is corrosive! Amazing that the air worked its way under the tape and I now have rust spots again. Though not as bad as before from gravel road chipping.
I think the 3M tape solution works well as long as you don't spend time right up against the ocean.
__________________
Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt
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09-01-2022, 07:51 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Brentwood Bay, British Columbia
Trailer: 2020 21C
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
No, the frame isn't galvanized.
I'm not sure that I'd bother with 400 grit. You want the surface to have a bit of tooth.
Unless the clear coat is harder than the paint I wouldn't bother. Just a second or third coat of black.
I don't regard the process as a permanent fix. To me it's just a routine item that I do depending on how much I drive on gravel roads.
Ron
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Thanks, Ron!
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