Dumb question for smart people...

[Brian B-P]

The "old" Atwood furnaces were the Everest Star II 7900 series. The new Atwood Furnace is the AF-series. Both series come in a normal version with a strong enough fan to push the heated air through ducts, and a version which is for direct discharge only (no ducts) and a lower-power fan. As far as I know, all furnaces in Escapes are 12,000 BTU/hr models.

Old (Everest Star)
normal: 7912-II (rated current 3.4 amps)
low-power: 8012-II (rated current 1.8 amps)

New (Hydro Flame AF-Series)
normal: AFSD12 (rated current 3.4 amps)
low-power: AFSAD12 (rated current 2.4 amps)

While all Escape installations are direct-discharge (not vented), the models capable of being used with ducts are also allowed to be used without vents, and may have been installed in Escapes. Actual current will depend on supply voltage, and may vary between individual furnaces.

[float5]

People with 21's in the dinette should have the 8012-II drawing 1.8 and those with the furnace in the drawer stack should have AFSAD-II and be drawing 2.4.
We have neither and draw 3.4.

I am still surprised at your numbers, Alan. At least I was told that those were 8012-II before the change in location. And, of course, you make a good point about really having an average. And I don't expect that you will have to go home.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by float5

...
And I don't expect that you will have to go home.

The forecast calls for up to 8 inches in the Denver metro area by Saturday.
I expect I'll never leave home.


--
Alan

[float5]

Glad I was not in Iowa this winter but the winters are becoming milder, it seems. Not mild enough for me though! Hope you don't have much to dig out.

[steve dunham]

I judge winter by how much firewood we burn . Twenty years ago we burned over 4 cords a winter now we burn barely 2 cord .
Our lake was frozen over for barely 2 months this year and we only got 4 ft of snow
To call what we have now as Winter is an out an out lie . It's just a 3 month joke !!

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

The forecast calls for up to 8 inches in the Denver metro area by Saturday.
I expect I'll never leave home.


--
Alan

Pity, first day driving with the top down. Darn sun is too bright.

Ron

[KirkB]

Originally Posted by KirkB

I know the fuse in the WFCO converter is 40A, but the battery fuse would be larger to accommodate loads to the inverter.

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The 40-amp fuse can't be in the wire from the battery from the optional 1500 watt inverter, because 40 amps would not be nearly large enough. 40 amps at 12 volts would only be 480 watts; to let enough power through to run a 1500 watt inverter at full output, any fuse in the inverter wire needs to be rated higher than 125 amps.

The 40-amp fuse will presumably be in the wire from the battery to the WFCO Power Center, which contains the converter and the 12 volt DC power distribution fuse panel. Escape installs separate wires from the battery to the power center, and from the battery to the inverter, with appropriate wire gauges and fusing.

Originally Posted by redtaco99

In my early 2016 Escape 19:
- the inverter is wired separately from the other trailer 12V circuits and has a 200Amp fuse right at the battery terminal
- the trailer's 12V system, is wired separately to the battery with another fuse holder (I suspect its a 40 amp fuse but I have not looked at it)

Jim

One more post to get back to Brenda's fuse problem.

Brenda, I suggest that you get ETI to confirm the correct Amp rating on the battery fuse for YOUR trailer.

If the battery fuse that blew on your trailer is only 40Amps, then you might not have the correct fuse installed in your trailer. You should probably have a 200 Amp fuse like Jim.

If you replace it with another 40 Amp fuse, it will blow again if you run the inverter over 480 watts, as mentioned by Brian.

Hope that is the solution to your problem.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

By the time you get your third Escape you will have it down pat and know exactly what you need vs what you want. Personally I have never seen the need for an inverter when you plan your use and know that between propane and 12v you will be comfortable(except for air conditioning). I had an all electric trailer so I had to have hookups but yearned for the propane freedom. Actually it was caused by our state parks, they seem to discriminate against dog owners and most dog allowed sites were non electric, thus the need for electric use freedom. Like Carl says, it is really not needed.

For the "hookup" crowd maybe, however for us the inverter is a must. Use our 4 cup Cuisinart to make morning coffee easy & tasty. Lately, we have also been using a toaster depending on battery condition after coffee made and only after turning off the pot.

We're very comfortable!

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Rossue

For the "hookup" crowd maybe, however for us the inverter is a must. Use our 4 cup Cuisinart to make morning coffee easy & tasty. Lately, we have also been using a toaster depending on battery condition after coffee made and only after turning off the pot.

We're very comfortable!

I am definitely not a confirmed member of the "hookup" crowd (except in the South during the summer months when roughing it without A/C is not an option) and I will reiterate, in the absence of shore power, I make coffee using a 6-cup stainless steel percolator and toast, if we want it, on the grill. Even though I do use a 4-cup Mr. Coffee when plugged in, the percolator actually makes better tasting coffee. Actually, the only electric appliances we have are the microwave which we can do without if not hooked up, a rarely used induction hot plate, a slow cooker for preparing potluck dishes, the Mr. Coffee, and a Sonicare which will go a long time between charges. And except for the Sonicare, we have alternate methods so as to do without any of the other appliances. Frankly, I don't want to have to worry about the condition of my batteries, so for the most part, I do not want to tax them doing something with inverter power that can be accomplished another way. The slight convenience just doesn't seem to be worth the investment, especially when the battery must have adequate voltage to run the refrigerator and furnace, if needed, and there is no guarantee that there will be enough solar gain to keep the batteries adequately charged. Also, it would drive me nuts having to "juggle" what is being used. Since I have owned the 5.0TA, my spouse has only used the small 150 watt inverter to watch television one time. While I am totally in agreement with Jim on what I consider the limited/questionable benefits of having an onboard inverter, no doubt this is a "YMMV" issue.

[gbaglo]

Best to stay in practice for the apocalypse, I say, living on the fault line.

[Rossue]

As the Church Lady used to say: "Isn't that special!".

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by KirkB

If the battery fuse that blew on your trailer is only 40Amps, then you might not have the correct fuse installed in your trailer. You should probably have a 200 Amp fuse like Jim.

If the 40 amp fuse is in the wire to the converter (which is probably about 10 gauge), it's appropriate and unrelated to the inverter.

If there is only a 40 amp fuse in the wire to the inverter (which is typically much heavier 4 gauge), then it is certainly inadequate... but it is unlikely that this is the case, because the style of fuse - and thus the fuse holder - is very different between these two circuits.

[float5]

Brenda, hope ETI has given you some guidance. We will be glad to know how this gets fixed.

[KirkB]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

If the 40 amp fuse is in the wire to the converter (which is probably about 10 gauge), it's appropriate and unrelated to the inverter.

If there is only a 40 amp fuse in the wire to the inverter (which is typically much heavier 4 gauge), then it is certainly inadequate... but it is unlikely that this is the case, because the style of fuse - and thus the fuse holder - is very different between these two circuits.

Hi Brian,

I agree with your comments about 40 Amp fuses and inverters.

There is only one fuse at the battery in my 19 with inverter. I can't check my trailer as it is in storage, but think that both the 4 ga wire to the inverter and the 10 ga wire to the converter are connected to this fuse. I recall seeing another inline fuse inside the trailer close to the battery disconnect (on the 10ga circuit), that one might be 40A.

As I mentioned, Jim claims to have a 200 Amp fuse at his battery, which would be sufficient for the inverter. I agree that a 40A fuse is not what ETI would design for customers with inverters.

I not not sure how Brenda verified that her blown battery fuse is 40A, but if it is, and if it is on the inverter circuit, then it is not sufficient, and will likely blow again. I know, a lot of guesses.

My theory is that the wrong fuse was put on her trailer - ( perhaps a 40A battery fuse is used for customers without inverters), and tested with a small inverter load and deemed to be OK. Or I could be completely wrong.

That is why Brenda needs to talk to ETI, and confirm what fuse she needs on her battery for the options she has on her trailer.

[gocamp]

I think mine is 40 amps at the battery. no 12v inverter option too. Hope it helps Brenda. Might be in themanual too. Trust the factory.

[H46Driver]

[QUOTE=KirkB;194215
As I mentioned, Jim claims to have a 200 Amp fuse at his battery, which would be sufficient for the inverter. I agree that a 40A fuse is not what ETI would design for customers with inverters.


My theory is that the wrong fuse was put on her trailer - ( perhaps a 40A battery fuse is used for customers without inverters), and tested with a small inverter load and deemed to be OK. Or I could be completely wrong.
[/QUOTE]

I have an inverter and a 40 amp fuse located on the top of the battery box (it has blown once). I know Fred Morón has one too (40 amp) and his has blown also. So is that the fuse that should be 200 amps?

I should mention that the fuse blew WITHOUT using the inverter.

[gocamp]

Sounds like Escape knows what they are doing, the fuse is protecting your Wiring all hidden behind the walls. It would not be fun to repair that.

[redtaco99]

Here is what the the 200 amp fuse to my inverter looks like. The thick number 4 wire goes directly to the Inverter. The thinner wire with the blade fuse holde feeds the trailer's 12v system. Im not sure of the value but I will check it this weekend because its probably a good idea to have a spare on hand. In case the photo does not load, you can see it at https://redtaco99.smugmug.com/Escape...-RV-/i-hC3LdQ3

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by redtaco99

Here is what the the 200 amp fuse to my inverter looks like. The thick number 4 wire goes directly to the Inverter. The thinner wire with the blade fuse holde feeds the trailer's 12v system. Im not sure of the value but I will check it this weekend because its probably a good idea to have a spare on hand. In case the photo does not load, you can see it at https://redtaco99.smugmug.com/Escape...-RV-/i-hC3LdQ3

Thanks Jim. A picture really helps...

There is no way to accidentally swap the 200-amp fuse (bolted to the battery terminal and the end of the heavy inverter cable) at the bottom of the photo, and the common blade-style fuse (probably 40 amps) under the cover in the smaller cable at the top right of the photo. One doesn't fit where the other belongs.

Originally Posted by H46Driver

I have an inverter and a 40 amp fuse located on the top of the battery box (it has blown once). I know Fred Morón has one too (40 amp) and his has blown also. So is that the fuse that should be 200 amps?

I should mention that the fuse blew WITHOUT using the inverter.

No, they're two separate fuses. With an inverter installation by Escape, you should have something like what Jim showed. The one at the bottom of his photo needs to be very large, and is - you should have one like that. Since the one that you blew is only 40 amps and was not related to the inverter, it was presumably in an inline socket like the one at the top right of Jim's photo.

[float5]

I asked about this and was told here that it is the bypass for the solar to work when master switch off. Okay, I don't know nothin'.