Inverter change out

[seanc]

Can I simply install a 2000 W inverter in the location where the 1500W inverter sits? Does anything else need to be changed? ETI tells me they are only "certified to install the 1500W inverter". Wiring size? Output differential? What's up? A few electrical items which might surge past the 1500w limit makes me want a 2000w.

[YakRV]

Originally Posted by seanc

Can I simply install a 2000 W inverter in the location where the 1500W inverter sits? Does anything else need to be changed? ETI tells me they are only "certified to install the 1500W inverter". Wiring size? Output differential? What's up? A few electrical items which might surge past the 1500w limit makes me want a 2000w.

Great question, and one we’re very interested in getting answered as well. One (or more) of the talented electrical gurus on this site will chime in soon, we hope.

[JeffreyG]

I'm not an electrician (I'm an engineer), but to me the main consideration for going over 1500 watts is that this is more than 15 amps @ 110V AC. That means that the AC circuit should be fused and wired to 20 amps capacity if you are running the power through a transfer switch to the network, or else you won't be able to pull 2000 watts.

If you are just plugging stuff into the inverter directly, then it can work, but use 12 gauge wire to pull 2000 watts, not 14 gauge.

Finally, check the gauge and expected amps on the 12V side. The requirement there is dependent on length of run, but you are going to be pulling something like 180 amps at 2000 watts.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by seanc

Can I simply install a 2000 W inverter in the location where the 1500W inverter sits? Does anything else need to be changed? ETI tells me they are only "certified to install the 1500W inverter". Wiring size? Output differential? What's up? A few electrical items which might surge past the 1500w limit makes me want a 2000w.

When purchasing electrical items make sure they'll work with your current inverter. Most RV size microwaves work fine with a 1,500 watt inverter. We have a 700 watt toaster that doesn't even come close (59 amps) to maxing our our 1500 watt inverter. Coffee makers can be purchased with the same thought in mind. We have a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor that can be used to see the electrical draw of our items

What do you plan to use?

Enjoy,

Perry

[wackyburggeezer]

Have you picked out a specific 2000W inverter? The inverter manufacturers generally provide installation instructions which include recommended wire sizes. If you are swapping out the ETI provided 1500 Watt GoPower inverter, then you'll want to increase the wire size from the batteries to the inverter. 2/0 AWG wire is a good place to start from.
In theory, an inverter generating 2000 watts of 120 volts will have a maximum output of 16.67 amps. However, as there is internal load in the inverter, the 'delivered' ampacity will be less. Check your favored appliances to confirm that they draw less current than the maximum rated output.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by seanc

A few electrical items which might surge past the 1500w limit makes me want a 2000w.

Not sure if this is enough but the inverter installed by Escape (GoPower GP-ISW1500-12) can supposedly operate up to 1730W for one minute and up to 2650W surge for 1 second.

I have studied the Escape system in preparation for my own installation of a 2000W inverter/charger so I know a bit about what is needed. The stock Escape install to all outlets has a 30A breaker in the WFCO panel, 30A WFCO T-30 transfer switch and a subpanel with two 15A breakers that should all be able to be reused depending. If you are running up over 1500W total distributed on multiple circuits I believe the AC side is wired fine. If you are planning to run one very large load on a single circuit this would need to be rewired with a 20A branch breaker and 12ga wiring to be suitable as JeffreyG stated. Bear in mind that you will most likely need to upsize the cables and the fusing on the DC side as well. I went with 4/0 for mine as it came as a kit but you can probably go a little smaller. Escape has been known to have marginally sized cables to the battery.

[seanc]

Originally Posted by wackyburggeezer

Have you picked out a specific 2000W inverter? The inverter manufacturers generally provide installation instructions which include recommended wire sizes. If you are swapping out the ETI provided 1500 Watt GoPower inverter, then you'll want to increase the wire size from the batteries to the inverter. 2/0 AWG wire is a good place to start from.
In theory, an inverter generating 2000 watts of 120 volts will have a maximum output of 16.67 amps. However, as there is internal load in the inverter, the 'delivered' ampacity will be less. Check your favored appliances to confirm that they draw less current than the maximum rated output.

Thanks for all the responses / information. Much appreciated and some of it even understood.

[oldwave]

Upgrade the wire to the battery to at least 2/0 upgrade the fuse to a T Class, I highly recommend the Progressive Dynamics 2000 watt with a built in transfer switch. Use 12 gauge to a subpanel and to a 20 or 30 amp breaker in the WFCO and move the circuits you want on the subpanel from the inverter, I did the microwave and all the outlets, excluded the air, and the 110 volt side of the refrigerator. the 30 amp breaker feeds to the inverter input on the invetr out feeds the sub panel. The question now is whether you have all the outlets with your current option of only one outlet. If so its easier and will only entail some battery cable upgrades

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by wackyburggeezer

In theory, an inverter generating 2000 watts of 120 volts will have a maximum output of 16.67 amps. However, as there is internal load in the inverter, the 'delivered' ampacity will be less.

The internal load and inefficiency mean that the inverter will take in more than 2000 watts of DC power to deliver 2000 watts of AC power; they don't mean that the output will be less than the rated output (and yes, 2000 watts is 16.7 amps at 120 volts, with a unity power factor).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

I'm not an electrician (I'm an engineer), but to me the main consideration for going over 1500 watts is that this is more than 15 amps @ 110V AC. That means that the AC circuit should be fused and wired to 20 amps capacity if you are running the power through a transfer switch to the network, or else you won't be able to pull 2000 watts.

If you are just plugging stuff into the inverter directly, then it can work, but use 12 gauge wire to pull 2000 watts, not 14 gauge.

I'm not sure about recent practice, but for years Escape used 20-amp cable (14-gauge) from the inverter to the transfer switch, as appropriate for the surge rating of the stock "1500 watt" inverter. If that's what's in the trailer, it's already suitable for a slightly larger inverter (up to 20 amps / 2400 watts output). If the "2000 watt" inverter is going to run higher than that for limited periods, then then the inverter to transfer switch wiring would need to go up to the 10-gauge cable suitable for 30 amps.

The jacket of NMD cable is usually white for 14 gauge (15 A), yellow for 12 gauge (20 A), and orange for 10 gauge (30 amps); these colours did appear in Escape installations (and presumably still do), making the capacity of each section of wiring apparent and easy to check.