Pump issue, help!

[Bea]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I replaced the pump strainer on both my Scamp and Casita due to cracks in the pump screen cover
I now carry a spare pump screen housing in my trailer’s parts bin
Cheap insurance !!

Appreciate this tip! And thanks for the link Rubicon327! We love cheap insurance. -Bea

[LarryandLiz]

? Where do you get spare pump parts.
Do RV stores carry spare parts for pumps. Aren’t there lots of different types of pumps out there? How hard are parts to get

[gbaglo]

You're surrounded. Meridian RV, Fraserway RV, O'Connor.
I needed a new support for counter extension. North Shore RV ordered it on a Wednesday and had it waiting for me on Thursday.

[Bea]

Originally Posted by LarryandLiz

? Where do you get spare pump parts.
Do RV stores carry spare parts for pumps. Aren’t there lots of different types of pumps out there? How hard are parts to get

I suggest you find your pump manual or look at your pump for the maker and model number. Once you have that, Google or do a search with it with 'replacement parts' and you'll probably see multiple links for replacement parts from Amazon, eBay, local RV places etc. for your pump. Your manual should also have a list for smaller parts with corresponding part numbers, so continue to Google or do a search for that part number you need and it's amazing how fast you can find it.

If the broken part is a common replaceable part, chances are a local RV or marine store might have it in stock, but online is probably the easier way to go - just make sure the site is secure and has good ratings. The best way, however, is to surprisingly find a link that some wonderful person posts here that works for you!

When all else fails, call the customer service center for your maker, ie Shurflo, and see if they can help you find the part you need. Good luck! -Bea

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by LarryandLiz

? Where do you get spare pump parts.
Do RV stores carry spare parts for pumps. Aren’t there lots of different types of pumps out there? How hard are parts to get

There are a lot of different pumps out there but Escape has only used two brands to my knowledge. Most trailers will have the Shurflo 4008 pump. Reace tried an Artis pump for a little while but went back to Shurflo.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Good idea. I was troubleshooting my neighbors Class A water system for lack of flow. Found the culprit to be the clear plastic pump strainer cover with a crack sucking air.

https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-3.../dp/B000V2W0GE

Dave seems to be a common problem . We also had several years ago , crack in the plastic cover . I called Shurflo and they sent us the strainer with the dome lid instead of the flat . That was about 5-6 years ago never had a problem since . I found the stainless screen inside the strainer cut into the lid that was flat . Pat

[JamieT]

Sounds like you may have air in the lines.. That would cause the spurting of water and could cause the pump to run slowly after you turn it off. Continue running the water till the spurting stops. That would flush the air out of the system.

[earlville]

I had the same issue on a 2020 Escape 21. I replaced pump, filter and other stuff before I figured out that the problem was a loose water line connection at the filter. You can check by turning on the pump, turning off, and inspecting the clear inlet water line. If after turning off, water drains from the inlet water line, there is air getting in through a loose connection somewhere. The pump won't stay primed. After fixing the loose connection, no issues. And now I have a spare pump and inlet filter.

[DRY]

I had the same problem after a few weeks use on cross country road trip. There were two problems. First, filter bowl was loose and it was allowing air in the system. Solved by hand tightening the filter bowl. Second, a couple hose clamps were loose on the intake side of pump and they were also sucking air. Tightened those and problem went away. Good luck

[Garygailrow@gmail.com]

Not a good idea to bleed air out of hwh. There is pressure temperature valve in the tank that should not be submerged.
If you leave the air in ,its 90% full of water.. that's what its engineered to do....be cautious....

[padlin]

I've always bled the air out using the pressure release and had no problems.

[Garygailrow@gmail.com]

I'm an RV tech for 40 years...do u bleed the air out of ur household hwh?its the same device..I'm just looking to keep u safe .

[padlin]

I never empty the house HWH like I do the one in the RV, but I'll take your word for it to not do it.

[gbaglo]

I don't understand. I presume the pressure relief valve is located where it is, on purpose. Opening the valve while filling the water heater allows air and eventually some water to escape. When it is closed, the tank will be almost full.

[steve dunham]

It’s for the same reason you don’t bleed all the air out of the expansion tank on a hot water home heating system . Air allows for expansion when the water is heated .
You can compress air . Gary is correct

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

It’s for the same reason you don’t bleed all the air out of the expansion tank on a hot water home heating system . Air allows for expansion when the water is heated .
You can compress air . Gary is correct

Right, but, when you close the pressure relief valve, I expect there is still room for expansion, which is why it is located where it is.
I'm assuming the "pressure temperature valve" is the pressure relief valve?

[Garygailrow@gmail.com]

There is a metal label on the p.t. valve giving it the ratings of temperature and pressure, that's how you buy it to replace it.
They, in some parts call it a 10% valve, hence 10% air gap to be left in tank.
All you need is for the thermostat to fail with no air gap to bleed off the excessive pressure and you could have an explosive situation on your hands..

[Garygailrow@gmail.com]

That was a suburban water heater in the picture, be sure you replace anode rod,usually annually if your in a hard water area..

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Garygailrow@gmail.com

That was a suburban water heater in the picture, be sure you replace anode rod,usually annually if your in a hard water area..

I've replaced the anode once in 12 years. First one was replaced early at about 8 years.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I'm assuming the "pressure temperature valve" is the pressure relief valve?

Yes, it is a relief valve which opens both in response to excessive pressure and in response to excessive temperature.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Right, but, when you close the pressure relief valve, I expect there is still room for expansion, which is why it is located where it is.

Since the relief valve is not located on the top of the heater, bleeding air out of it up to the level of the valve will still leave an air cushion at the top of the heater. The same is true of the hot water outlet, which is what you are using to bleed the tank by opening a hot water faucet. If anyone is curious, they could compare the heights of the relief valve and outlet fittings. For the valve to respond effectively to high temperature, the water level should probably be up to the valve.