RMD8555 fridge stopped working on propane :(

[Parker]

Originally Posted by alanerickson

Not me. There shouldn't be anything proprietary about the solenoid, normally they purchase "generic" gas, solenoid valves. Did you look at the valve, find a part number, and do a search on that? Also, a little odd the solenoid is bad but not impossible. Is it actually "clicking" and trying to open?

I'm at the mercy of the RV shop at present, which is an hour away. I don't know how he diagnosed it, but it does match the way the fridge has been working so intermittently. I'll certainly dig into it on my own when I get the Escape home.

[Parker]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I indeed have a RMD8555 in my driveway, but it at first would not run on propane, then stopped running entirely (dead control panel), and no idea whats wrong.

I replaced it with a Norcold N2175 dc compressor fridge and am as happy as I could be, even in 105F weather, it freezes solid in the freezer, and stays frosty cold in the fridge. It uses as much as 6 amps DC when its running, which typically is 30% of the time, unless it is really hot, then it might run twice that, so tahts around 30-75 watt*hours per hour, or 500 watt hours a day typical. I went kamikaze overkill, as I am so wont to do, and upgraded my batts to 412AH/5200WH of lithium iron phosphate, and upgraded my solar to a 360W monocrystalline with a 30A MTTP controller. So using fridge + typical lighting + maxxifan on nearly constantly at low to medium, + furnace at night, I can go about a week with ZERO sun, and forever with 50% sun (my solar panel makes 2000WH on a sunny day with no shade)

oh, the N2175 was an *exact fit* in the space of the RMD8555. You can (and should) block off the external venting, I actually removed the rooftop vent and capped it off, as the larger solar panel would have run into it.

I'm on the way to installing a compressor fridge as well if I can't find a part for this one. I do need to spend some time researching which fridge(s) fit in a 2013 model.

[Parker]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

ok, I took a couple jumper clips, and a AA 1.5V battery, negative to the ground terminal, and alternately connected plus briefly to each of the two V+ terminals and I hear it clicking.

ah, this page shows the same valve,
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12...1.html?page=15
BOTH V+ have to be powered for it to switch on, its 2 valves in series as a safety thing.

and yup, if I power both V+ with my little 1.5V battery, I can blow through it, unpower, and it clicks off.

This is great news! That's the one. My initial reaction was that solenoid valves are not that complicated, and any springloaded-to-close valve would work, but it sounds considerably more complicated. Sending a PM.

Thanks, John!

[alanerickson]

Nothing to exciting here, but this is what my lower cover looks like covered over. HDPE sheet from local big box hardware store. Then I sanded, flame treated, and used JB Weld plastic adhesive to glue the patch on. Fairly certain it's going to stay put. Thought about adding a couple of v-grooves on it to break it up, but got overruled by the boss. Can still do that at a later date though.

[cpaharley2008]

How about converting that area with a hatch cover?

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

How about converting that area with a hatch cover?

I wouldn't want to be storing stuff in there, the back of the compressor fridge has open access, it just doesn't expect airflow.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Parker

Dometic says buy a new fridge. What a despicable company.

Dometic and despicable are synonyms. Pinhole leak in a coolant tube in my AC - needed to be repaired/recharged right? Nothing a speck of solder and a can of refrigerant couldn't fix.

Wrong. Not designed to be serviceable. "Buy a new AC unit".

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Dometic and despicable are synonyms. Pinhole leak in a coolant tube in my AC - needed to be repaired/recharged right? Nothing a speck of solder and a can of refrigerant couldn't fix.

Wrong. Not designed to be serviceable. "Buy a new AC unit".

that tube is probably aluminum. not at all easy to solder.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Dometic and despicable are synonyms. Pinhole leak in a coolant tube in my AC - needed to be repaired/recharged right? Nothing a speck of solder and a can of refrigerant couldn't fix.

Wrong. Not designed to be serviceable. "Buy a new AC unit".

Yeah, I hate LG too: my 7 year old French Door fridge crapped out after 7 years. Cost replace part with labor wasn't worth fixing.

I'm kidding- and this hate Dometic shtick is frankly misplaced IMO.

[Parker]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Yeah,
and this hate Dometic shtick is frankly misplaced IMO.

Maybe that comment was a little too strong and my frustrations bubbled to the top. Maybe "disappointing" would have been a better choice of words. I'm looking at the very real possibility of a third fridge being installed in our nine-year old camper. Three-year average life on a fridge that costs $2500 to $3000 is pretty poor performance in my option. Plus almost all interactions I've had with RV shops result in hearing, once again, how difficult it is to work with Dometic, how parts are not available (granted, a problem not limited to Dometic) and how difficult it is for their technicians to even get information from the company. So I'm less than impressed with Dometic. But to end on a positive note, I should soon have a used part arriving from John in Santa Cruz that may keep our fridge going a little longer.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

that tube is probably aluminum. not at all easy to solder.

It was copper colored, so I'm assuming it wasn't aluminum. But there was also no charging port. It was designed so the whole unit was to be discarded if the refrigerant leaked out.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Yeah, I hate LG too: my 7 year old French Door fridge crapped out after 7 years. Cost replace part with labor wasn't worth fixing.



I'm kidding- and this hate Dometic shtick is frankly misplaced IMO.

Apples and oranges. That unit had maybe 24 total operating hours on it when it failed. And it was specifically designed to be discarded if it did.

And one need only look back at the myriad of issues folks have had with trying to get the 8 Series refrigerators to cool properly, as well as the numerous issues with their warranty service as a whole, to see it's not 'shtick'.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

It was copper colored, so I'm assuming it wasn't aluminum. But there was also no charging port. It was designed so the whole unit was to be discarded if the refrigerant leaked out.

That doesn't mean that it can't be recharged. I have a clamp on charging port. It pierces the tube and allows for recharging. Once installed it stays on.

The rule used to be that a system that leaked could be recharged once. If it leaked again then you couldn't legally recharge it a second time.

Which reminds me, I really should dispose of my cans and tank of Freon 12, not much market for it these days.

Ron

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

It was copper colored, so I'm assuming it wasn't aluminum. But there was also no charging port. It was designed so the whole unit was to be discarded if the refrigerant leaked out.

I wonder what refrigerant it uses... my Norcold compressor fridge uses some butane mix.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I wonder what refrigerant it uses... my Norcold compressor fridge uses some butane mix.

Good question. I assumed it was just R-134A but it might be something more specialized.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Good question. I assumed it was just R-134A but it might be something more specialized.

The Dometic Penguin air conditioners have traditionally used R-410A refrigerant.

[alanerickson]

Believe it or not that plastic sheet covering the vents on that cover isn't working the greatest. The top of the vent cover leaks when it rains, and the sheet created a little pocket out of the vents that filled up with water as the rain leaked thru the top and ran down the inside. Normally the rain would leak out the vents, but with the vents covered, that's a no go. So either I'm going to need to add some drain holes, or figure out how to seal the top.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I'd put a bead of some urethane sealant like Lexel or Proflex RV around it, screw it back on, boom, sealed.

[alanerickson]

Something like that had also crossed my mind, but it would also be nice to confirm that it isn't leaking if it does rain. A small flashing across the top is also another thought.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by alanerickson

Something like that had also crossed my mind, but it would also be nice to confirm that it isn't leaking if it does rain. A small flashing across the top is also another thought.

I've noted that a number of the side attachments on the Escape came from the factory with sealant on the sides and top but none on the bottom.