surge protector - Page 2

**John in Santa Cruz** · 03-20-2021, 11:56 AM

in "A" auto mode, the fridge should switch from AC to Propane, but never to DC unless you do so manually.

HarleyD · 03-20-2021, 03:35 PM

Keep in mind too the ETI surge protector takes a while to analyze the power it is receiving. Do not expect to plug into a pedestal and immediately check for power inside the trailer. Wait a couple of minutes for the protector to do its work and then check for usable power. Still fools me sometimes. But then I am easily fooled.

h2owmn · 03-20-2021, 05:45 PM

Hm, what happens if the propane is off? then the refrigerator just tries to light a few times and stops?

**John in Santa Cruz** · 03-20-2021, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h2owmn

Hm, what happens if the propane is off? then the refrigerator just tries to light a few times and stops?

probably depends on the fridge. if I put mine in propane and it doesn't light after a few tries, it beeps, and I have to reset it before it will try to light again.

cpaharley2008 · 03-21-2021, 09:05 AM

I believe it is a 2 minute delay while the system analyzes the hookup before letting the juice flow......

davidmurphy02 · 03-21-2021, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I believe it is a 2 minute delay while the system analyzes the hookup before letting the juice flow......

Yes, the little LED will flash for two minutes before the power turns on while it goes through all its checks. But as soon as you plug in your shore power cord the display will light up and either show "E0" or an error code so that you can tell right away if there's a problem with the shore power.

Vermilye · 03-21-2021, 09:32 AM

The delay can be set to either 120 seconds or around 7 seconds depending on the placement of a jumper on the circuit board. Escape set mine for 120 seconds (no jumper) and did not include the jumper with the EMS. I contacted Progressive Industries & they sent me one.

The delay is not necessary for the EMS to analyze the incoming power which only takes a part of a second. It is to prevent the air conditioner from restarting after a brief shut down. You can add the jumper if you want to avoid the delay.

cpaharley2008 · 03-21-2021, 09:40 AM

It takes me several minutes for water and electric hookups, so the delay is not wasted time.....

HarleyD · 03-21-2021, 10:05 AM

I agree, it is not a problem unless you expect instant power when you plug in. Don't call the facility manager and complain about no power until the 2 minutes are up, as I once did. He said "do you have a surge protector?". I sheeply said "yes, sorry, never mind!"

Mike Lewis · 03-21-2021, 10:52 AM

I'm considering retrofitting my Escape with an internal EMS. While I'm doing that I might as well convert its power cord to a detachable one. Could someone recommend a kit for doing this? Thanks.

cpaharley2008 · 03-21-2021, 11:12 AM

I did it on my first Escape.......https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mar...6343043&sr=8-5

Bob in Bend · 03-21-2021, 09:12 PM

On two occasions I have had to request to be moved to another spot due to an error code on my Escape surge protector. The first thing I always do now is connect to power prior to setting up or unhooking.

gklott · 03-22-2021, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob in Bend

On two occasions I have had to request to be moved to another spot due to an error code on my Escape surge protector. The first thing I always do now is connect to power prior to setting up or unhooking.

Excellent advice, and we do the same.

We've had something wrong at the pedestal a few times. Last time the error code was "E2". The RV park staff quickly replaced the outlet, which repaired the open ground.

73/gus

gklott · 03-22-2021, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

I'm considering retrofitting my Escape with an internal EMS. While I'm doing that I might as well convert its power cord to a detachable one. Could someone recommend a kit for doing this? Thanks.

Recommend the Progressive Dynamics EMS-HW30C Hardwired EMS-HW30C RV Surge & Electrical Protector. This is the ETI option. Whatever model you select, make sure it is UL, ETL, CSA, or similarly certified.

73/gus

RJV · 05-01-2021, 12:03 PM

I've run into a bit of a puzzler that I need some help with.

I have plugged my 2017 21 into the same outdoor 15 Amp GFI plug outside my house since I brought it home from the factory. Up until a few days back it has worked fine as long as I kept the load light. By that I mean lights and fridge only. On one occasion, I tried a small electric heater and one of the shunts didn't like it kicking me out.

Recently having brought the trailer home from storage, I plugged it in as usual and all worked fine for about two weeks until a few days back.

I heard a shunt release (or maybe the surge protector) followed very quickly by the GFI plug. I reset the GFI, plugged the trailer in again and in very short order the shunt released again followed by the GFI.

I should mention that there was nothing on in the trailer .. no lights, no fridge .. just the electrical management system. My 12 Volt battery disconnect was OFF. Solar was connected and charging the battery.

I tried a second outdoor GFI plug with exactly the same result. I put my voltmeter inline to see what my voltage was (127 volts) and it was within the EMS-LCHW30's spec

I tried plugging it into a non-GFI inside the garage and it held returning things to normal. Clearly I have a problem somewhere. What's baffling is the fact that the trailer has been happy with that GFI outlet up until now.

Can anyone weigh in on whether the issue is caused by the GFI plug or is something in the Electrical Management System going south?

gklott · 05-01-2021, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJV

Can anyone weigh in on whether the issue is caused by the GFI plug or is something in the Electrical Management System going south?

You have a repeatable ground fault. This indicates something dangerous, and I recommend clearing it before continuing trailer use with AC mains connected.

1. Recommend trying another supply cord to trailer using the GFCI source outlet.

2. If #1 does not cause a GFCI trip, recommend turning off all breakers in trailer AC Mains panel. Turn on 30A main first after EMS/SP settles. Then turn each AC breaker on, one at a time, to try and recreate the GFCI trip.

3. Common RV GFCI trip cause is moisture an outlet or supply inlet.

73/gus

Vermilye · 05-01-2021, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gklott

You have a repeatable ground fault. This indicates something dangerous, and I recommend clearing it before continuing trailer use with AC mains connected.

1. Recommend trying another supply cord to trailer using the GFCI source outlet.

2. If #1 does not cause a GFCI trip, recommend turning off all breakers in trailer AC Mains panel. Turn on 30A main first after EMS/SP settles. Then turn each AC breaker on, one at a time, to try and recreate the GFCI trip.

3. Common RV GFCI trip cause is moisture an outlet or supply inlet.

73/gus

If the GFCI trips with all the breakers off, you can still have a fault between the neutral & ground. Modern GFCIs can detect these faults. You can't use the breakers to test for this since they are not in the neutral/ground circuit. The only way to find a ground/neutral fault is to disconnect each circuit's neutral, something that most non electricians don't want to get into.

Likely ground/neutral faults are wet receptacles, the heaters in the refrigerator or water heater, and a failing converter. Again, shutting off the breaker won't show the fault, although unplugging the refrigerator is a easy check.

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