water system questions

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Our 2010 had the battery isolator switch, so they’ve certainly been around for awhile. I still wish they came with a guard to prevent accidental switching off [emoji849] Another opportunity for owner customization and enhanced pride of ownership, I suppose [emoji6]

A simple substitute for a guard - break off the handle, then use a screwdriver or pliers to flip it the once or twice a year you need to. I've done that by accident on both trailers, and on the 21 I didn't replace the broken handle and don't miss it.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

A simple substitute for a guard - break off the handle, then use a screwdriver or pliers to flip it the once or twice a year you need to. I've done that by accident on both trailers, and on the 21 I didn't replace the broken handle and don't miss it.

I had ETI install this disconnect switch during our build (on the far right)

[Jim Bennett]

I have only accidentally hit ours once in 8 years of having an Escape.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I have only accidentally hit ours once in 8 years of having an Escape.

We have small kids. The standard switch in our 17B got flipped regularly by bouncing little legs and feet. Problem solved with aftermarket switch in our 19.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

We have small kids. The standard switch in our 17B got flipped regularly by bouncing little legs and feet. Problem solved with aftermarket switch in our 19.

I thought for a moment you were going to say, problem solved, we cut our kids legs shorter. [emoji41]

[jmcrv2017]

Originally Posted by CADreamin

most LED lights on except those on the top ceiling

Did you turn on the switch by the door? Can't tell you how many time when we first had our trailer that we would turn on the overhead light and nothing happened ... until we remembered we had a switch by the door which also controlled the overhead lights.

That must it! I thought that switch is for awning... Right, only the 3 top overhead lights, all the rest LED are fine. Thanks for the tip!

[jmcrv2017]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

I had ETI install this disconnect switch during our buildAttachment 34723 (on the far right)Attachment 34724

That looks really nice and neat. If we buy our own solar panel, how to connect to the battery, does the wiring go outside and into the frontbox to the battery? I wonder where the monitor panel and switch will go... I wish I could get it done at the Chilliwack but too far away and I can not wait to install a solar panel otherwise the battery is too much to maintain...

[John in Santa Cruz]

you normally want to install the solar charge controller relatively close to the battery... and its generally wired directly to the battery, so thee solar charging happens even if the battery is disconnected from the rest of the trailer systems

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by jmcrv2017

That looks really nice and neat. If we buy our own solar panel, how to connect to the battery, does the wiring go outside and into the frontbox to the battery? I wonder where the monitor panel and switch will go... I wish I could get it done at the Chilliwack but too far away and I can not wait to install a solar panel otherwise the battery is too much to maintain...

That depends on the panel. If you purchase a portable panel, it is likely to have a built in controller. In that case, you can use the alligator clips likely supplied with the portable to connect to the battery. Better yet, install a Zamp or SAE connector to the battery so all you need to do is plug in the panel - saves removing the battery cover each time you connect.

If you purchase a bare panel, you will need a controller. It is best mounted as close to the battery (but not in the case) as possible, but unless it has a separate monitor, in the trailer so you can see the readout. Adding a Zamp connector to go between the panel & the controller is the most practical method for a small (under 200 watt) non permanently mounted panel.

If you permanently mount the panel on the the roof, most run the wiring from the panel through the refrigerator rooftop vent. An internal controller mounted above the refrigerator provides easy access & viewing, however in a 19, requires a fairly long run to the battery. In any case, you are going to need to get some #10 or even #8 wire between the panel(s) and the battery. The controller will go somewhere in the run between the panel & the battery, closer to the battery is better.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by jmcrv2017

That looks really nice and neat. If we buy our own solar panel, how to connect to the battery, does the wiring go outside and into the frontbox to the battery? I wonder where the monitor panel and switch will go... I wish I could get it done at the Chilliwack but too far away and I can not wait to install a solar panel otherwise the battery is too much to maintain...

If you go to Escape's website and click on standard locations, a .pdf file will show your standard locations for the 19 Escape
http://escapetrailer.com/wp-content/...dLocations.pdf
as far as too far away, why not make an appt and then attend the rally in Osoyoos, make it into a vacation, California is less than 2 days drive, some of us live thousands of miles and several days away.

[caddoster]

Originally Posted by jmcrv2017

That looks really nice and neat. If we buy our own solar panel, how to connect to the battery, does the wiring go outside and into the frontbox to the battery? I wonder where the monitor panel and switch will go... I wish I could get it done at the Chilliwack but too far away and I can not wait to install a solar panel otherwise the battery is too much to maintain...

I'm not sure the disconnect switch can be installed after the fact in the same location based on the dimension, ETI probably moved the power panel a little bit to put that switch in. I looked at the dimension and didn't think it will go into the 19 without moving some stuff or relocating the switch.



You will want to wire the solar panel to the charge controller. I think they put in the GoPower controller whether or not you have the solar option, so it probably make sense to wire the panels to there... (or replace the GoPower with another controller from your solar panel if it's a better one).. You will need to mount the panel on the trailer roof and route the cables inside. You can do it yourself but probably want to see if any of the local shops can do it? we have the ETI option solar panel, so can't help with shop recommendation.



Meanwhile you could probably just leave the trailer plugged in to maintain the battery... it's still pretty simple. or turn the disconnect switch off and turn it back on to top off the battery every few months... we just covered the trailer this past weekend so we plug it in for now.

[John in Santa Cruz]

FWIW, on my 21, with the rear 'U' shaped dinette, the disconnect switch is just around the corner from the power converter/panel....

[jmcrv2017]

Originally Posted by caddoster

I'm not sure the disconnect switch can be installed after the fact in the same location based on the dimension, ETI probably moved the power panel a little bit to put that switch in. I looked at the dimension and didn't think it will go into the 19 without moving some stuff or relocating the switch.

We had the option for 2 6v batteries so we already have disconnect switch. Just don't have panel. Thought we will not do dry camping exceeding 3 days so no need to have it... Big mistake.


You will want to wire the solar panel to the charge controller. I think they put in the GoPower controller whether or not you have the solar option, so it probably make sense to wire the panels to there... (or replace the GoPower with another controller from your solar panel if it's a better one).. You will need to mount the panel on the trailer roof and route the cables inside. You can do it yourself but probably want to see if any of the local shops can do it? we have the ETI option solar panel, so can't help with shop recommendation.

We asked a RV store in Tracy who has solar panels, with everything and installation about $575 out of door. So about same price for original escape panel. I would rather Escape do it than someone who doesn't know the trailer... We now disconnect the battery. If battery can maintain over 50% for one or two months, I may prefer install from the Escape later in this coming summer...

Meanwhile you could probably just leave the trailer plugged in to maintain the battery... it's still pretty simple. or turn the disconnect switch off and turn it back on to top off the battery every few months... we just covered the trailer this past weekend so we plug it in for now.

You cover it for the raining season? Do you get the new cover from Escape or something else?

[caddoster]

We asked a RV store in Tracy who has solar panels, with everything and installation about $575 out of door. So about same price for original escape panel. I would rather Escape do it than someone who doesn't know the trailer... We now disconnect the battery. If battery can maintain over 50% for one or two months, I may prefer install from the Escape later in this coming summer...

Yes.. that's why we decided to have ETI install the panel.. since they make the trailer. We also have ETI installed a zamp port so we can plug in a portable solar panel but so far we have not needed to use the portable panel.

Summer going up to BC is nice.

Originally Posted by jmcrv2017

You cover it for the raining season? Do you get the new cover from Escape or something else?

Yeah, also the trailer is stored under a tree and it's easier for me to cover it than to clean the leaves on the trailer roof I think the solar is still charging the battery under the cover, but we plugged it in anyway.

I don't know what ETI has for sale right now, they didn't have any when we picked up the trailer last year. We got the cover on eBay, works good and we figured for that price (<$200) we can afford to replace it every few years if needed. The cover can be put on by one person so it's pretty quick to do.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by caddoster

I think they put in the GoPower controller whether or not you have the solar option, so it probably make sense to wire the panels to there...

I’ve never heard this. The ETI solar option is simply the GoPower GP-RV-160 kit. Unless some type of special arrangement is made you won’t get a controller if you don’t order the option.

https://gpelectric.com/files/gpelect...-80-95-160.pdf

[caddoster]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I’ve never heard this. The ETI solar option is simply the GoPower GP-RV-160 kit. Unless some type of special arrangement is made you won’t get a controller if you don’t order the option.

https://gpelectric.com/files/gpelect...-80-95-160.pdf

Yup. I'm confused. I'm thinking solar ready, but solar ready is the special arrangement you mentioned.

[cpaharley2008]

I don't think solar ready means anything more than wiring, like a/c ready, the wiring is there , nothing else.

[Little Richie]

I am very cautious about fresh water. The effort in sanitizing the fresh water system is low and the down side is high. We go out for long trips about three times a year and I sanatize the fresh water tank each time. I also keep some bleach with me if we have a problem.

On a related note: I always sanatize the freshwater connection point. Too many people flush their blank tanks and are not careful. For places like KOA it is supposed to be standard operating procedure, but...

[gbaglo]

I have separate hoses for fresh water and septic applications.

[jmcrv2017]

Originally Posted by Little Richie

I am very cautious about fresh water. The effort in sanitizing the fresh water system is low and the down side is high. We go out for long trips about three times a year and I sanatize the fresh water tank each time. I also keep some bleach with me if we have a problem.

Thanks for sharing your experience. How much water do you need to sanitize the fresh water tank?

Instruction says:
3. Add solution to tank and fill with water. Turn on pump and open each faucet/fixture until a distinct chlorine odor is smelled. Close faucets and let stand 4 hours. Do not forget to turn on hot water taps as well as cold.




Just a little water as long as water pump get sanitizing water to all hte faucet/fixture?

then:
4. Completely drain system and flush with fresh water until chlorine odor and smell is gone. (If water filter has been added, change it at this time).




How much water usually needed for flash the solution out?

When drain the fresh water, do you connect a hose to drain it to sewage? Or just let water out it will flow to nearest sewage(on the street) anyway? Do you do it at home before the trip or at the camp site(if not dry camping)

On a related note: I always sanitize the freshwater connection point. Too many people flush their blank tanks and are not careful. For places like KOA it is supposed to be standard operating procedure, but...

You mean the fresh water hose where connection to the camp site water supply? Or camp site water supply connector? Just using the solution (or any sanitize wipe) wipe it clean?