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Old 12-09-2016, 08:38 PM   #21
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You will also need some kind of access hatch for the portable panel wires. I am having ETI install a standard electrical hatch and run wires from the controller above the fridge down to where the hatch will be. The cost is $100. I think for that price I would rather have them do it than me have to wrestle with the fridge.
I'm very interested in having ETI run the wires and install the external electrical hatch. We will be living full time in the trailer and pulling the refrigerator will not be a fun job. What type of external access hatch is ETI installing?

The alternative I see is putting an access hatch (small wooden door) high in the wall between the dinette and the refrigerator. Has anyone done that?
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Old 12-09-2016, 08:43 PM   #22
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I'm very interested in having ETI run the wires and install the external electrical hatch. We will be living full time in the trailer and pulling the refrigerator will not be a fun job. What type of external access hatch is ETI installing?

The alternative I see is putting an access hatch (small wooden door) high in the wall between the dinette and the refrigerator. Has anyone done that?
The hatch they will be installing on our trailer is the same one they use for the non-removable power cord.
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Old 12-09-2016, 10:06 PM   #23
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The hatch they will be installing on our trailer is the same one they use for the non-removable power cord.
Does that have a door on it to seal shut when the cord isn't running through it?
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:29 AM   #24
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Does that have a door on it to seal shut when the cord isn't running through it?
Yes it does have a door. It's apparently a bit cheesy and other people (Jim Bennett) have found other higher quality access hatches but I can't help with that.
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:49 AM   #25
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Yes it does have a door. It's apparently a bit cheesy and other people (Jim Bennett) have found other higher quality access hatches but I can't help with that.
Yes, I do plan to use a hatch either with a built in box like these options, or one could build a waterproof box behind and access hatch. Regardless, I would still use waterproof connections on the bulkhead of the box if at all possible.


This one from Nuova Rade I kinda like best, but it is tough to find in North America.

(click on image for link)



This one more readily available from JR Products, and is available in a keyed of thumb lock version. I really see no need for the key for this application. Amazon and a few RV parts stores carry them.

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Old 12-10-2016, 08:32 AM   #26
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To simplify things, have the controller mounted under the dinette bench and you can install one of these ports in the outside rear baggage door, one less hole in your new unit to worry about.
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