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Old 06-15-2014, 12:41 PM   #21
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I have the antenna you linked to - it is mounted on the rear driver's side wall of the trailer using the main part of the mirror bracket. There is a photo of the mount about two thirds of the way down on my trailer modifications page.

Depending on where you plan to place the Sleek, you will want to insure the attached antenna cable will reach. I had ETI add a 12v receptacle in the face of the cabinet I placed the Sleek, and use a 12V splitter to power both the Sleek & a Millenicom hotspot.

One additional point. When storing the trailer over the winter I managed to break off one of the ground plane radials on the antenna. That, plus wanting to upgrade it to covering 4G frequencies (the original antenna was 3G only) required replacing the antenna. In the 17b, the wiring was run in the back of the upper cabinets & behind the bathroom wall. Replacing it was a difficult job including removing the vent & using an inspection camera to find a path behind the bathroom.

If I was doing it again, I'd request ETI install a run of 3/4" plastic conduit between the cabinets on either side of the bathroom to make replacements easy. With the changes in frequencies cell phone providers are going through, the ability to change antennas is something to consider.

I don't know if the conduit idea is necessary or would work in the 19' or 21', but I'd ask...
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:20 PM   #22
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Intermatic FF15MC Timer. Intermatic 15 Minute Spring Wound Timer FF15MC.

this looks like a useful replacement to the ETI existing hot water on/off switch. "set it, and forget it".
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:39 PM   #23
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When blowing out the lines to winterize and there isn't a low point drain, where does the water in the lines exit?
You open one faucet at a time. To be safe I pumped anti freeze in the lines using a hand pump. (By passing the hot water heater)
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:42 PM   #24
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You open one faucet at a time. To be safe I pumped anti freeze in the lines using a hand pump. (By passing the hot water heater)
Exactly why the E-Z winterizing set up is needed, to be safe!!
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:43 PM   #25
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To get the RV antifreeze into the toilet lines, someone needs to hold down the handle while antifreeze is pumped in.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:46 PM   #26
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To get the RV antifreeze into the toilet lines, someone needs to hold down the handle while antifreeze is pumped in.
Not with the E-Z winterizing, you turn on your pump and you then open close each faucet and flush the toilet, all done by yourself in 5 minutes.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:47 PM   #27
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We were sorting through our various baskets and bins today, and the wife pulled out a little 4" stick I had in there... labelled "toilet lever" -- cut to the right length to hold the toilet lever open when wedged between the lever and the wall.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:49 PM   #28
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IMHO, when you use air to eliminate water in a vertical piece of plastic pipe, there is always going to be some water residue left, unless you run the air continuously until the lines are air dried. That said, any water left in the lines can accumulate at a low point and freeze. But as we all know YMMV!
Not like one has to get every single molecule of water out of the trailer to avoid popping PEX lines (which can take a fair amount of expansion.) The density of water at room temperature is 0.998g/cm , that of water just near the freezing point is 0.9998 g/cm. The density of ice is 0.9167 g/cm. The ratio of volumes is inversely proportional to the ratio of densities. So, for example, one gallon of water near the freezing point would make the equivalent of 1.090 gallons of ice. Which means the volume when ice increases less than 10 percent. Since it's not contained in a confined space - water can expand sideways in pipes first. Never had an issue just blowing out my lines.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:50 PM   #29
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That is one of the biggest advantages to the E-Z winterizer is that you can do it by yourself. I like the team effort.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:41 PM   #30
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For the last two years I've used air only (antifreeze in the drains). I have an adapter that lets me connect the city water inlet to the air compressor so I'm free to move to each faucet & the toilet to open until the sputtering stops. After that I wait a few minutes & do it again.

No problems & we have 0F winters. (Not that I ever saw it this year!)
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:55 PM   #31
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jon, what pressure do you use to blow out the lines?
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:42 PM   #32
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This is in response to your plantar fasciatitis. Have you tried custom made Insoles.? I got immediate relief, only thing that ever helped.
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:50 PM   #33
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Quote:
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We were sorting through our various baskets and bins today, and the wife pulled out a little 4" stick I had in there... labelled "toilet lever" -- cut to the right length to hold the toilet lever open when wedged between the lever and the wall.
I found that one of those containers for wipes fits just right to hold the toilet trap open.
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File Type: jpg Toilet lever prop.jpg (79.4 KB, 6 views)
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:55 PM   #34
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This is in response to your plantar fasciatitis. Have you tried custom made Insoles.? I got immediate relief, only thing that ever helped.
I got a stent in my left thigh. Forgot that I ever had plantar fasciatis or however it is spelled. Tried a lot of insoles, but wasn't willing to pay for the custom jobs. Basically, I had no circulation in that leg and that was the real issue.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:07 AM   #35
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jon, what pressure do you use to blow out the lines?
I use 40-50 psi, a tad less than the pump pressure output.
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:43 AM   #36
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Thanks for all the replies

Thanks much for all the replies -- I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge on this forum and the respectful conversation. Answers to a few questions, and comments:
  • Foxhunt, we are as anxious as you are... :-) We ordered the Lark at the end of January, 2012, and picked it up on Midsummer's Day. We ordered the Skylark the end of Jan, but it doesn't come until just after the Autumn Equinox. Oh Well, anticipation is half the fun...
  • Glen, I suppose I could leave the batteries in if it was a mild winter. But since we store the trailer in a RV Storage lot, I have to get them out in the fall before we know what the winter will be like. Last winter was really cold and snowy, so the solar panels wouldn't have provided a charge. But the nice thing about MN winters is that the bugs aren't too bad.
  • Regarding the microwave, it is one of those things we often use. I know that I can heat water on the stove, and probably make popcorn there too (although it has been years since I made popcorn on a stove). But we like the microwave. As Donna would say, YMMV. If I could find a convection microwave that would fit in the spot, I would get it. But I haven't found one yet.
  • I am still on the fence about the inverter. I hadn't realized how inefficient they are. The more I thought about it the more I agreed with the Doug's comment about "go all in or go home". So if we get it, we will go all in.
  • Jon and Charley, thanks for the info on the cell phone antennas. They look comparable, except the one Charley pointed to sits on the roof and would look a bit "cleaner" because the cord wouldn't show. If that is correct, I am going with the roof mount.
  • Someone said something somewhere about the added height in the 21. Given that neither Lindy nor I were ever recruited for the NBA, that has made me rethink the notion of a remote controlled MaxFann. So we will get that.
  • Appreciate the comments re blowing out the plumbing. I was glad to hear I didn't waste my money on the compressor. I was nervous when we went on our spring trip because I figured that would be when I found out if I had screwed up the winterizing process. But everything worked well, and nice not having to run the pink stuff out of the water lines.
  • Regarding the plantar fasciitis. I tried custom orthotic inserts. Wearing them was pure agony for me, for and the podiatrist said to go ahead and ditch them. Easy for him to say -- it wasn't his $400.00. Anyhow, the feet are getting better, but the dr. says it is a matter of weeks/months rather than days. Thanks for your suggestion though.

We have to have our build sheet finalized by July 1. So just a couple more weeks to agonize over these decisions. Thanks again for your input.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:27 AM   #37
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Our good news was ETI compressed our "freeze" period for the build sheet down to 2 weeks when they accelerated their production rate from the 5 weeks we had. Made for a very busy 2 weeks! I spent most of it reading this forum for pros/cons over what options were possible but it was great to have it done. I dropped a couple of options and relocated some electrical/audio locations afterwards and ETI didn't charge me the $200 penalty, probably since the deletes didn't involve any material charges they would have had to order.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:30 AM   #38
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Leon, on the roof mount antenna - there is a footnote on the Amazon website about not being able to ship it outside the US. Don't know the rationale for that since it's the same antenna as the mirror mount version. I had it shipped to my house and then reshipped it to ETI myself.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:24 AM   #39
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I am not sure why some stuff can't be shipped outside the US. And I looked at the cost to have Amazon ship to Canada for the stuff that can be shipped (the jensen radio, the umbra hooks, an HDMI cable, and an HDMI outlet). It is 90.00 shipping and $60.00 customs deposit. I thought about having it shipped to me and then driving to Thunder Bay and shipping it from there. But UPS Canada wants a Canadian ID before they will accept a package at their UPS store (at least according to the web site). I am going to have to figure something out
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:27 AM   #40
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I am not sure why some stuff can't be shipped outside the US. And I looked at the cost to have Amazon ship to Canada for the stuff that can be shipped (the jensen radio, the umbra hooks, an HDMI cable, and an HDMI outlet). It is 90.00 shipping and $60.00 customs deposit. I thought about having it shipped to me and then driving to Thunder Bay and shipping it from there. But UPS Canada wants a Canadian ID before they will accept a package at their UPS store (at least according to the web site). I am going to have to figure something out
If you drive into Canada to ship, I would use Canada Post rather than UPS. Just take your package to the post office and they should be able to ship if for you.

As an alternative, you may want to check whether USPS will ship for you. May be cheaper than making a road trip to Canada.
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