5.0TA Electric Heater In steps info wanted

[Suregrip391]

Hi everyone,
I am interested in this mod, those that have done it, can you tell me about your heater and how well it keeps your trailer warm? Attach some pics and also explain a little about the wiring job that this entails? Is there already electric under those steps, if not how and where did you tap in? We wanted a source of aux heat in the event our sail switch fails in the middle of the night and I don’t feel like messing with it at 2am. Thanks to all!

[cpaharley2008]

You will need access to 120v to operate one of these, I have installed previously in my Escapes, they work well...https://www.amazon.com/Cadet-Com-Pak...92283304&psc=1
I recommend the smaller 750 or 1000 watt units so that you do not over tax the electric circuit.....

[Jim Bennett]

I installed one in my 5.0TA before I did my multitude of other modifications.

I used a toe kick (or toe space) heater which is needed to keep the height low. I had Escape run a 2/14 cable to it from the panel during the build but that could be somehow added later. I also had them run a 2 wire low voltage wire into the wall by the existing thermostat to install one for this electric heater. Of course, this could be run later if desired too. I installed a relay to have the thermostat switch the 120V to the heater on. I also had Escape build the lower step 2" wider. I drove Reace crazy with these and many, many other requests.

I used mine a lot while working in the middle of winter on the interior modifications to my trailer. It worked great for that. I now use it whenever heat is needed and we have connectivity. We rarely are in campgrounds with power so it really does not geta lot of use. Now with the trailer comfortably parked in the backyard it could be used there as I installed a 30A outlet. Regardless, it is so much better than carrying a cube heater like we did in the 19, it as always in the way set up.

Here is a shot of the setup. This heater is no longer available which is too bad. I really like the fact you can use either one of the two elements for a low draw or both for lots of heat.



A view of it installed.



A view from the top. I now have a 1/4" ply shelf above it giving us room for stuff on top of it.



A shot of the two thermostats.

[Suregrip391]

Thanks guys! How hard will it be to get 110/120v run under the steps, I’d have to have a look around to see where I can tap into, where did some of you tap into or run a new line completely? (If you did not have Escape install a drop here) is 12 gauge recommended?

[oldwave]

Larger wires for a resistance heater is better. The cost is minimal. I’d use 12

[bristol5.0]

I installed the King model PAW 120V heater in the small cabinet below the propane heater. We use our 5.0 as a 3 season (Maine seasons) camper. In winter we usually go south for a couple of months, typically FL panhandle. This model is adjustable from 250 to 1500 watts. We set it for 1000 watts, and find it perfect for cooler to cold nights. We prefer the gentle heat and quiet tangential fan compared to the propane furnace when we have electric service. I replaced the original cabinet door with a 3/4" painted to match MDO of the same dimensions. I also framed the opening with 1x3's attached to the existing framing, installed a new breaker and dedicated circuit, and beefed up the heating element attachment to the wall can. The wiring was easy because of the location. We still have more than sufficient storage after repurposing that cabinet.

https://king-electric.com/product/model-paw/

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Suregrip391

... How hard will it be to get 110/120v run under the steps, I’d have to have a look around to see where I can tap into, where did some of you tap into or run a new line completely? ...

In my 5.0 the WFCO converter / AC breaker panel is in the DS rear bench - your's may be on the PS depending on your various other options (?). In doing electrical mods (though not a heater in the step so I've not routed a wire to that specific area) I've found ...

• removal of the trim / paneling in the driver-side floor-level cabinets is fairly easy (look for screws and brads / staples)
• ^that^ provides access to an easy route (over the wheel wells) for wires from the DS rear bench to the aisle-side rear corner of the bath (there's plumbing waste-vent pipes in that area)
• I believe that from ^there^ you can snake a ('romex') wire past the bottom corner of the fiberglass bath enclosure and the black-tank to the lower step interior
• take care drilling from inside the step through the paneling toward the black tank; if you use a small holesaw remove the protruding pilot bit

Personally, if installing a built-in electric heater I'd run appropriate gauge 'romex' from a dedicated breaker in the WFCO panel to the heater (I would not 'tap' an existing outlet or appliance circuit).

Just for your consideration / investigation.

[Mike Lewis]

Is there a safety concern having an electric heater near the propane heater? I'm thinking about the propane line. I was considering putting an electric heater in the space for the lower cabinet beneath the stove on my 21 but hesitated because the stove's propane line runs up from the floor between two of those lower cabinets.

[sofmerc]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

Is there a safety concern having an electric heater near the propane heater? I'm thinking about the propane line. I was considering putting an electric heater in the space for the lower cabinet beneath the stove on my 21 but hesitated because the stove's propane line runs up from the floor between two of those lower cabinets.

I went a completely different route for electric heat. I got the Houghton AC unit with heat pump. Seems to be suitable for a 3 season trailer...

[Ooshkaboo]

Then there’s this way, small and cheap.

I have the Coleman heat strip but, this is in the event I’m set up where I could two different household breakers so as not to overwhelm the one line.