Adding solar - thoughts please

[rubicon327]

Well the time has come to think seriously about adding solar. I am debating between a basic off the shelf system (Go Power like ETI installs), procuring the parts individually myself, or purchasing one of AM Solar's DIY kits ($$). We removed the rooftop A/C for my custom mini-split install so I could probably fit 3 or 4 panels. Really debating on a basic system for battery maintenance under reasonable loads or whether to pay more now to be ready for additional panels that could be integrated with lithium batteries and an inverter to power the mini-split A/C. Also debating between flexible panels or traditional panels with mounts either bolted through or adhered to roof with AM Solar's specifications. The AM Solar mounts would allow tilting. Probably use a Victron battery monitor and solar charge controller. So basically how well does your solar work and if you did a custom install what would you do differently if you did it again? Any tips and recommendations appreciated.

[padlin]

You need to decide on how much power you want so you can size the controller correctly, also decide on controller style and what voltage you want to use.

[Vermilye]

If you winter camp, the tilting is very useful. Not so much in the summer, although it will provide some improvement year round.

I currently have 320 Watts of GoPower panels (2 -160 Watt) on the roof that have been modified to tilt. I tilt them in December & January, and add a 160 watt portable panel. 2 Battleborn lithium batteries, a Victron 100/30 solar controller. With the rooftop + portable, I've seen a peak of 30 amps, although it is usually in the mid to high 20's.

I don't attempt to power my AC, but run everything else, including a 950 watt microwave, small toaster oven & pop up toaster, drip coffee maker and far too much electronics. Deepest battery discharge has been 72 amp hours. I typically use 40 - 60 amp hours per day and have no problem putting it all back unless I have a string of more than 2 cloudy days. I carry a 700/900 watt propane only generator as a back up to the system, but have only run it to exercise it.

As to different, I wouldn't mind having the newer 190 watt panels, although they would only provide a couple more amps of charging current. If I had an unlimited budget, I might add a system to tilt & swivel the panels remotely. It currently takes about 20 minutes to tilt or until them, with two rounds of the trailer on a step ladder.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

...
Any tips and recommendations appreciated.

In my testing of a 160 Watt panel in mid-January, I produced 21 Watts with the panel flat on the ground and 76 Watts with the panel aimed directly at the sun (not just tilted but also rotated). I was using a 1 ohm resistor as a constant load (and easy math for W=E*I).

My recommendation for camping in the low-sun months is to have at least one panel tiltable and rotatable, and perhaps portable, to get the power you need if camping in a shaded location.

--
Alan

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Being your handy I would defiantly do a custom install. I think about what you want for power and how much you want to spend on system . If you want to run the mini split it will drive the cost of system up. That would Be a great set up .

[Hawkeye Ed]

Maybe this is crazy, but I was thinking about a portable system that can store for travel somehow on the trailer roof where it's not cluttering up the camper and also can be charging the battery while traveling. Hooking it all up isn't the problem so much as an easy-on, easy-off mount that's secure. Any ideas or suggestions?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeEZ

Maybe this is crazy, but I was thinking about a portable system that can store for travel somehow on the trailer roof where it's not cluttering up the camper and also can be charging the battery while traveling. Hooking it all up isn't the problem so much as an easy-on, easy-off mount that's secure. Any ideas or suggestions?

I have thought about solar on the tow vehicle so the trailer could be parked in the shade and tow vehicle moved into the sun (where possible). Obviously would only work on big sites with partial shade.

I have also thought about solar panels that are hung on brackets over the windows as awnings once you get to the site. Would only work on front, rear and driver’s side if you use your fabric awning.

I do like the idea of easily removable rooftop panels that could double as a portable if parked in shade. Seems to me it would just take the right mounts and quick connect wiring.

Just brainstorming....

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I have also thought about solar panels that are hung on brackets over the windows as awnings once you get to the site. Would only work on front, rear and driver’s side if you use your fabric awning.

Just brainstorming....

Now you have done it Dave First a mini-split and followed by fexible solar panes for the awning

[Jim Bennett]

I really like my Lensun semi-flexible panels. 240W of panels you can't even see. No tilting for them, but for the most part I really don't want to bother with that, though I know it would help. Only on a very bad weather days after using DC a fair bit have I not fully recharged the batteries, and if needed I hook up my temporary panel to boost the charging.

I look at it as a convenience to be able to camp off the grid as much as I want, and be able to run the basic trailer functions without issue. I do use the convenience of the inverter too, but should there no be good charging weather I will back off on using it.

If doing the solar again on a new trailer, I would most likely stick with the same setup. It performs well, and I love not having large panels on display.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I really like my Lensun semi-flexible panels. 240W of panels you can't even see. No tilting for them, but for the most part I really don't want to bother with that, though I know it would help. Only on a very bad weather days after using DC a fair bit have I not fully recharged the batteries, and if needed I hook up my temporary panel to boost the charging.

I look at it as a convenience to be able to camp off the grid as much as I want, and be able to run the basic trailer functions without issue. I do use the convenience of the inverter too, but should there no be good charging weather I will back off on using it.

If doing the solar again on a new trailer, I would most likely stick with the same setup. It performs well, and I love not having large panels on display.

Strangely enough, but the Lensun panels seem to catch the sun better at angles than the glass panels.

I changed out the GoPower controller with a Victron for a friend and had my trailer and her's side by side. Her trailer has the 190w and my trailer has four 50w panels. With the same morning sun coming down at the same angles to the trailers, my trailer was putting out twice the power her's was with the same brand solar controllers and the same sun.

It didn't make sense until I looked at the trailers from a second floor window and saw the sun glaring off the glass panels and the Lensun panels black. My guess is the textured surface of the Lensun panels catches the light better when struck at an angle.

[fudge_brownie]

With the amount of roof space you should consider 24 volt panels. The 24 volt gives better yield. At least install a 24 volt solar controller. The "smart" line of controllers from Victron include built in monitoring via a cell phone app. Portable is another option, I have a fold-able 120 watt that fits into the wardrobe.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

With the amount of roof space you should consider 24 volt panels. The 24 volt gives better yield. At least install a 24 volt solar controller. The "smart" line of controllers from Victron include built in monitoring via a cell phone app. Portable is another option, I have a fold-able 120 watt that fits into the wardrobe.

24 Volt panels come in high wattage configurations, 250 W or more. Another advantage, besides raw power, is not needing massively thick wires thanks to the higher voltage. But - and there is no ambiguity here - they must be paired with a MPPT type controller, not the standard controller that Escape provides. At the controller the 24 V is down-converted to 12 V, with a very small loss of power - another advantage over the standard model. And typically the more "modern" MPPT controllers come with more bells and whistles. Finally, the cost per Watt is probably less than smaller panels due to their widespread use in commercial arrays.

The downside is their size - you are not going to want to wrestle with a 250 W panel on the ground. Once up on the roof they will probably stay there.

--
Alan

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Strangely enough, but the Lensun panels seem to catch the sun better at angles than the glass panels.

I changed out the GoPower controller with a Victron for a friend and had my trailer and her's side by side. Her trailer has the 190w and my trailer has four 50w panels. With the same morning sun coming down at the same angles to the trailers, my trailer was putting out twice the power her's was with the same brand solar controllers and the same sun.

It didn't make sense until I looked at the trailers from a second floor window and saw the sun glaring off the glass panels and the Lensun panels black. My guess is the textured surface of the Lensun panels catches the light better when struck at an angle.

I have never really heard a comparison like this before. Good to know. Only adds to my pleasure in having them.

[fudge_brownie]

Alan,
Very good amplification and explanation of the benefits of 24 volt. Yes, they have limited applicability because of their size. In this case having all that roof space is an exception. The panels are very inexpensive, most installers have slightly damaged units at very reduced prices.

I actually use one of these panels as a portable panel. It is the residential model and stands 65 inches tall. Not something for travel, unless you have a large SUV, it is a beast to maneuver. Unwieldy rather than heavy. I travel for five hours and then plop down for two weeks, twice a year, it works fine. Since I am not stopping en-route it fits inside the Escape. Last in, first out is necessary.

Great power generation for the heavy users that we are. Lots of electronics, microwave and eBike charging. Also heavily forested with limited sun.

So many choices in panel arrangement and design. We are fortunate.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Ronn

Now you have done it Dave First a mini-split and followed by flexible solar panes for the awning

Found this. Pretty neat...
https://www.rvwithtito.com/articles/...window-awning/

[UncleTim]

So if I were to switch out the 12 volt system with a Battle Born battery and system, would I need to just switch out the batteries, solar controller and electrical panel? Anything else?

If you have this type of system, do you notice the benefits?

I am just wondering because I know the standard 12 volt batteries have a limited lifespan. I am wondering if it makes sense to think about this for a replacement system. I have two panels providing 380 watts. I pick it up in a couple of weeks.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by UncleTim

So if I were to switch out the 12 volt system with a Battle Born battery and system, would I need to just switch out the batteries, solar controller and electrical panel? Anything else?

If you have this type of system, do you notice the benefits?

I am just wondering because I know the standard 12 volt batteries have a limited lifespan. I am wondering if it makes sense to think about this for a replacement system. I have two panels providing 380 watts. I pick it up in a couple of weeks.

This is my thinking on this . I am assuming you purchased the duel 6 volts with trailer. I am in the same boat as you I have trailer on order.

so we know the go power controller does not charge the 6 volts at proper voltage. this can be solved with a victron 100-30 controller 225 bucks. so right away you spending as much to protect the 6 volts they cost to replace. doesn't seem to make sense to me.
If i was you i would use the stock system and see how it works for you. maybe invest in a good battery monitor that could be used if you upgrade the system down the road. the duel 6 volts will last for years if properly taken care of. the biggest problem with the stock set up is you cant adjust the go-power to the proper voltage that interstate recommends.The result is not getting 100% charge.with that being said eh stock ETI install works for a lot of people and you cant beat the price. for my use i have to have a battery monitor . I am just one that need's to know whats going on. But that monitor will do nothing to give you more power.

[cpaharley2008]

and both of you would need $$$$ to change also

[UncleTim]

Correct on all points. Here is the other thing. Battery technology companies are under huge pressure to come up with better batteries. I expect new product lifecycles to be short and new and emerging technologies to continue to show up.

I agree on using what I bought and checking it out for myself. Something that is about to happen. But as a technologist I cannot help buy take an interest in this changing field. Little changes here and there can amount to big changes in comfort and convenience levels.

I figure this change with just two new batteries wold cost about $3,000 +/-. And of course I am curious as to what four new batteries would mean. All hypothetical, for now! And prices change over time too.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by UncleTim

Correct on all points. Here is the other thing. Battery technology companies are under huge pressure to come up with better batteries. I expect new product lifecycles to be short and new and emerging technologies to continue to show up.

I agree on using what I bought and checking it out for myself. Something that is about to happen. But as a technologist I cannot help buy take an interest in this changing field. Little changes here and there can amount to big changes in comfort and convenience levels.

I figure this change with just two new batteries wold cost about $3,000 +/-. And of course I am curious as to what four new batteries would mean. All hypothetical, for now! And prices change over time too.

you could just go with one 300 ah 83lb battery with bluetooth
https://www.lifebluebattery.com/rv-b...m-battery.html


here some more info you might find interesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOqQp2Xjr6U