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12-12-2015, 03:28 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
While I've been told the quality of the newer Pelonis Classic Disk Heaters is not as good as the older models, the ads state they function the same way - vary the heat output & fan speed to keep the temperature of your trailer at what ever you set it at.
I'm not giving up my 1986 Pelonis Disk Furnace to find out - it keeps the trailer temperature within 1-2 degrees off the set temperature with outside temperature swings between 50°F and 20°F. When running at its slowest speed (most of the time) you can barely hear it.
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Thanks Jon - that's the type I was thinking of. The ceramic disk feature is not important, but the continuously variable control is the part I like.
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12-12-2015, 03:36 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,561
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Just another instance of Amazon.ca product rip-off. The same heater Jon linked to for $88.85 + $7.64 shipping (USD) sells for $182.08 +$30.39 shipping (CAD).
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-12-2015, 04:23 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Jim,
I have installed 2 of these, the first was a 1500 watt model and I installed a switch to disable one element allowing it to operate off 750 watts. The second one is in BlackJack an is 1000 watt element which is adequate. The 1500 watt model may be too much for the circuit. Depends on what else is on the line. If it were me, I'd locate the heater in the street side closet wall in the loft, there is a 120v outlet there and the flow is unobstructed throughout the area plus you have access to the rear.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-12-2015, 04:33 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,561
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I plan to have Escape run the wires, and I will wire it in to a separate circuit, so 15A would do up to 1800W, not that I need it.
I do think having a heater that could be set to a lower wattage would be beneficial, as most nights it would be to only take a chill off, but it would be nice to use below freezing if able too.
I don't think there would be enough room to put it under the closet door Jim, as most need the 6" to either side, and the narrowest are just over 14", that would mean a clearance of over 26" side to side. Did you just wire in a regular wall switch? I was thinking of mounting a small one on the grill. Only one maker I know of actually does that, Myson.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-12-2015, 04:39 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I was thinking the side closet up in the loft wall facing the front of the bed. I installed a lighted switch in the 19' to remind me it was on as the thermostat will operate the blower. In BlackJack I installed a 2/4/6/8 timer. The switch for the element was a toggle mounted on the grill.
http://www.amazon.ca/Broan-Nutone-17...68HGMVHQN01JAR
http://www.amazon.ca/Woods-59013-Dec...8ATN5T4G50NDTD
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-12-2015, 04:59 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
I plan to have Escape run the wires, and I will wire it in to a separate circuit, so 15A would do up to 1800W, not that I need it.
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15 amps at 120 volts is 1800 watts, but that might not be permitted. I think - and someone qualified should confirm - that a single appliance that is operated continuously must not exceed 1500 watts (12.5 amps) on a 15 amp circuit, which is why most heaters are that size.
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12-12-2015, 05:06 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
I plan to have Escape run the wires, and I will wire it in to a separate circuit, so 15A would do up to 1800W, not that I need it.
I do think having a heater that could be set to a lower wattage would be beneficial, as most nights it would be to only take a chill off, but it would be nice to use below freezing if able too.
I don't think there would be enough room to put it under the closet door Jim, as most need the 6" to either side, and the narrowest are just over 14", that would mean a clearance of over 26" side to side. Did you just wire in a regular wall switch? I was thinking of mounting a small one on the grill. Only one maker I know of actually does that, Myson.
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Hi: Jim Bennett... Just a thought but I'd look at putting it in the top step riser. The back of the heater would project into in the exterior hatch opening!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
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12-12-2015, 05:13 PM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
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Yeah, I like the idea of a toggle on the heater itself. Here is the Myson guide, I really like their switches on the front, and wish others would do the same.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...FE50-Guide.pdf
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-12-2015, 05:19 PM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
15 amps at 120 volts is 1800 watts, but that might not be permitted. I think - and someone qualified should confirm - that a single appliance that is operated continuously must not exceed 1500 watts (12.5 amps) on a 15 amp circuit, which is why most heaters are that size.
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There is no code that limits what output an appliance has other than common sense, the limitation is the breaker for the circuit, and how much of a pain it would be to have to reset it. Should voltages drop below 120V for some reason, there is a good likelihood that the breaker would trip with an 1800W load. But yes, something less than 1800W would certainly make more sense. Even 1600W at a lower 110V is still just under 15A.
Here is a link to your local BORG, with the Dimplex heater that has up to an 1800W output.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1000133460.html
For anyone wondering how to calculate, it is simply;
P (power)
V (voltage)
I (current)
P (watts) = V (volts) x I (amps)
So if you have 120V x 15A, you get 1800W.
Quote:
Originally Posted by escape artist
Hi: Jim Bennett... Just a thought but I'd look at putting it in the top step riser. The back of the heater would project into in the exterior hatch opening!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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The location would be nice, but not sure I would want to give up the valuable exterior storage space. Using the second riser would screw up the storage under the steps. I plan to make the first step a bit wider, as did Chris R. It is all in the planning stage yet, and nothing will be decided until I take a trip to BC late February to check things out for myself.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-12-2015, 06:22 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA
Posts: 554
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I have a built in unit in my 5.0 Classic. Escape ran the wire for the heater and thermostat and also cut the hole for the heater to my specs. I put the thermostat at the head of the bed (we sleep with our heads towards the inside of the trailer rather than the front of the trailer) so that I can turn it up in the morning before I get out of bed. We turn the heat down to about 55 for the night and in temps just around freezing and slightly below it runs probably about 50% of the time. The unit is a King Brand heater and it is variable in wattage from 250 to 1500 watts I run it at 1200 watts. You just connect the wire you need in the heater to activate one, some or all of the elements. It has a squirrel cage fan and is very quiet. It's about 12"x8"x4"deep. I installed it where the shallow cupboard would be under the sink.
Barry
__________________
Photography website: https://bjustice.zenfolio.com
2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA / 2017 F150, 2.7 EcoBoost 4X4 Supercab
Former trailers: 2005 Escape 17B / 1972 Boler 13'
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12-12-2015, 06:27 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA
Posts: 554
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Pictures
__________________
Photography website: https://bjustice.zenfolio.com
2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA / 2017 F150, 2.7 EcoBoost 4X4 Supercab
Former trailers: 2005 Escape 17B / 1972 Boler 13'
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12-12-2015, 06:33 PM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,561
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I have a couple of the King on my short list too, the KTW1215 which can be set at 250/500/750/1250/1550W, and the KT12262, which can be set at 750/1500W. The latter is a fair bit smaller in size, and 2.5 lbs lighter. Both use a squirrel cage fan.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...%2FKTW_WEB.pdf
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...s%2FKT_WEB.pdf
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-12-2015, 06:37 PM
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#53
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA
Posts: 554
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Mine's the PAW 1215.
__________________
Photography website: https://bjustice.zenfolio.com
2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA / 2017 F150, 2.7 EcoBoost 4X4 Supercab
Former trailers: 2005 Escape 17B / 1972 Boler 13'
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12-12-2015, 08:18 PM
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#54
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 17A
Posts: 2,348
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I'm surprised that no one has made the comparison to the gas-fired heater that's built-in.
Suburban (Atwood) AFSAD12 furnace is 12,000 Btu/H input, so that's about 9600 Btu/H output.
At 3.413 Btu/H per Watt, we have about a 2800 Watt heater.
So, to substitute an electric, on a really cold night, you'd be using
2800 W. / 120VAC = 23+ Amps.
Or is the electric a supplemental when you have shore power, so you don't use as much propane?
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12-12-2015, 08:21 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Yes, I turn on the electric heat prior to falling asleep and afterwards the furnace takes over. I set the thermostat for the propane furnace for 64 at night. During the day we use the electric exclusively. Of course this only applies with hookups.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-12-2015, 08:26 PM
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#56
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
There is no code that limits what output an appliance has other than common sense, the limitation is the breaker for the circuit, and how much of a pain it would be to have to reset it. Should voltages drop below 120V for some reason, there is a good likelihood that the breaker would trip with an 1800W load. But yes, something less than 1800W would certainly make more sense. Even 1600W at a lower 110V is still just under 15A.
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While an air conditioner or other appliance that is mostly a motor load will sometimes draw more current at lower voltages, a resistance heater won't. If the voltage drops, so does the wattage. The resistance of the heater is the constant (well, not quite since it varies with the temperature of the element) so if it is called a 1500 watt heater, and is designed for 120V, it will draw 12.5 amps at 120V. The resistance of the heater is 9.6 ohms (R=E/I). Drop the voltage to 100, and the current will be 10.42 amps (I=E/R). Wattage will be 1042 (W=IXE).
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12-12-2015, 09:01 PM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfandrews
Or is the electric a supplemental when you have shore power, so you don't use as much propane?
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I pretty much use it as a replacement when I can, and just set the furnace lower in case it is needed. I prefer to run the electric heater through the night, as it is MUCH quieter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
If the voltage drops, so does the wattage.
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Gotcha, makes total sense now that you say it. I had lots of electrical education many, many years ago, and have very rarely drawn on it for a long time now.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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12-12-2015, 09:06 PM
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#58
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Austin, Texas
Trailer: Future 5.0TA
Posts: 2
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12-12-2015, 09:25 PM
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#60
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpudufus
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Those heat mats are more for comfort than space heating, though would certainly make walking on the floor a lot more comfy.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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